When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was snooping around Summit's website today and stumbled across a set of Summit Shorty Headers for an 87-96 5.0L F-150. The price isn't real bad; Only $150. Here's the link: Painted Steel Headers
Or, for $150 more, I could get the Ford Racing Stainless Steel Shorty headers for the same truck. Here's the link: Stainless Steel Headers
I guess my main question is: If I went with the painted steel headers, how long should I expect them to survive under "normal" conditions? I at least want to make sure that I can get my money's worth out of them.
I suspect that the stainless steel headers would be the best choice, as a feller wouldn't have to worry about buying another set. But, I just don't know if I want to blow the extra dough.
If they have dynomometer results showing a significant improvement in HP or economy with the "shorty" headers, look elsewhere. Shorty headers are rarely of much benefit unless you have a cracked manifold and the "shorty" headers save you some money over a new manifold. Look for headers that advertise a proven benefit, or keep your money.
They have the long tubes for my truck, but I'm not sure if I want to go through all the trouble of having a custom Y-Pipe made and running extra pipe, and the unmentionables like relocating the O2 sensor, etc. I'd just rather bolt-up and go.
theres nothing wrong with shorty headers they do provide much better flow then stock manifolds. Have put plenty of sets of short headers on and long tube at our custom exhaust shop.
If your interested, at the Sanderson headers tech page they have test results that state the shortie headers have better torque to about 4200 rpm where the long tubes make a big jump up to about 5000 rpm where they stay about the same untill about 5500 rpm where the long tubes have a bit of a gain from then on and shorties have better HP up to about 4400 rpm where the long tubes get better HP from then on. I guess it depends on how you want to drive it.
They also have an artical on small tubes vs large tubes and at the left of the page they have an artical about a set of headers they say won't leak at the heads because of the new flange design.
If nothing else, it's worth checking out.
Paint was gone within a couple of days, but no rust has appeared, just heat discoloration. Don't put any wrap on 'em, though. That will void the warranty and speed encourage rust.
If they have dynomometer results showing a significant improvement in HP or economy with the "shorty" headers, look elsewhere. Shorty headers are rarely of much benefit unless you have a cracked manifold and the "shorty" headers save you some money over a new manifold. Look for headers that advertise a proven benefit, or keep your money.
I misspoke! (that was a word they made up during the Reagan years as an explanation for when he lied.) I meant to say "If they DON'T have dyno results..."
Sorry
Thanks for the responses, fellas. If I go with headers, these will be the ones.
One more question for ya though, mike 2112...
How hard are they to put on? (i.e. Have to pull inner fenders? etc.?)
They almost HAVE to provide better flow than the manifolds... The long tubes MIGHT be a bit better, but in my opinion, they're not worth the extra trouble. Not for me, anyway...
I guess I'll have to upgrade my spark plug wires, also... Are the plugs a pain to get to once the headers are installed?
Thanks for the responses, fellas. If I go with headers, these will be the ones.
One more question for ya though, mike 2112...
How hard are they to put on? (i.e. Have to pull inner fenders? etc.?)
They almost HAVE to provide better flow than the manifolds... The long tubes MIGHT be a bit better, but in my opinion, they're not worth the extra trouble. Not for me, anyway...
I guess I'll have to upgrade my spark plug wires, also... Are the plugs a pain to get to once the headers are installed?
Thanks again, ya'll!
Nightrain
Actually, they weren't that hard to put on. You'll spend some time working from underneath and some time working from up top. I did not remove the inner fenders. You will need to modify a box-end wrench to get some of the header bolts on -- some of them you just can't get a socket on. Regarding the spark plugs, I had to modify only one wire (I think it was the number 7) to keep it from touching the header and causing a short. I just got a new wire with each end at 90 degrees and that worked perfectly. The plugs are actually easier to get to with the headers on than with the stock manifolds. After they are on, later on, you might notice a small exhaust leak. Just re-tighten the header bolts periodically and all should be fine. Good luck and keep us posted. Also, to max your improved breathing, an exhaust upgrade shouldn't be far behind.
An "off-road" (converter-less) custom-made Y-Pipe and a Cherry Bomb glasspack that'll dump out right under the passenger's booty... Can't wait to hear it rumble with the headers!
best thing i ever did to not have problems getting on header bolts that where to close to the tubes was switched to allen head bolts. made everything so much easier
BTW, did you use the bolts that came with the header kit, or buy a different set?
They show a set on the site that says they're "locking" header bolts, but I'm not sure if they'll do the trick...
Nightrain
I just used the ones that came with the headers. I've heard mixed reviews about the locking bolts. The biggest complaint I have heard is that they are waaaaayyyy hard to install. I really don't mind tightening them down every now and then. I am very pleased with the gasket that came with the Summits. No leaks at all. Good luck.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.