I pulled the vacume line off my egr when running and it is very weak and fluttery is this normal

 

Year? Engine? EFI, CFI, or Carb?

Is it sputtering when idling or at throttle above 75%? At idle or something around 75% throttle, the EGR is supposed to close. Check the line you disconnected, and make sure it has no vacuum when idling. And, of course, if you didn't plug it when you disconnected it, do so. Otherwise, when the ECM decides it's time to open the EGR, all it's gonna do is suck more air into the manifold and weaken the mixture with air even more than it's supposed to do with exhaust gases. If that line is plugged, take a propane torch and turn the gas low on but don't light it. Point it at the lines and trace the lines with the UNLIT torch. Point the torch at EVERYTHING connected to the intake manifold, including the manifold itself. If you have a cracked vacuum line or leak somewhere else, the vacuum will suck in the propane, and smooth out the idle. There's another place to look. If you have the 5.0L V8 EFI, check out my gallery. There's a common problem with the intake plenum gasket failing.

Another note, the check engine light should be coming on (unless it's an older model where it wasn't connected). Pull the codes (see www.fordfuelinjection.com) and see what codes you have. You should be getting the code for the disconnected EGR if you're driving it while the vac line is disconnected, minimum. If you don't want the EGR opening or want to eliminate it as a source of your rough idle/driveability, then cut a metal plate to go between the EGR and the plenum and block it off that way. Disconnecting the vacuum line can cause more problems than it fixes. Blocking the port on the plenum lets the EGR valve operate the way it's supposed to mechanically, but just blocks off exhaust gases going back to the intake.

If you suspect a vacuum leak, it's easier to isolate it by disconnecting EVERYTHING from the vacuum tree and capping the connections. Well, almost everything. You'll still need the MAP and Fuel Pressure Regulator connections. As long as you're not going anywhere for the testing, it's OK to disconnect the power brake booster too. Just don't try to drive it unless you have at least 20 miles of empty highway in front of you to stop the beast. Then, by reconnecting one at a time, you can eliminate things that aren't leaking. Get a good vacuum gauge from your favorite parts house and check the actual vacuum. Should be somewhere aroune 20 - 22 inches vacuum. If it isn't start hunting.

Good luck with it. I just went through all this recently. There are so many things that can cause rough idle that I won't presume to guess. Checking the vacuum and repairing any leaks is probably the cheapest starting point, but I don't pretend to say this is your problem. Just don't start throwing parts at it. The simpler stuff is usually the cheaper solution, and usually requires a LOT less labor to fix. You're about to embark on a very good learning experience.

 

iiiiiiits an 87 5.0, Ijust changed the plenum gasket no better code says egr pulled line off egr at idle physically opened egr it ran rough, when its cold it runs not bad when warm it sucks floor it int boggs really bad 150k on enginetook egr off looked good moved easy enough maybee a vacum leak not real happy with it

 

I don't mean to hijack someone elses thread but this seems to go along with it.
If mine runs good and idles good is a steady 19 necessarily bad? It has 178K miles on it. Mine is also throwing several codes. I don't have the list in front of me but from memory 332, 452, 542.Oh and my mileage is around 12 mpg. (95 F150 SC 4x4 5.0L 4R70W 3.31)