I have a 98 V-10 15-pass. Club Wagon. I plan to tow a very heavy boat. But before I buy the trailer (I already have the boat) I'd thought I'd ask something that has been bothering me. Is the F-350 (truck) stronger, that is, has a different, stronger, more rigid frame, more designed to tow a heavy object? Or is my CW just as strong and I should not worry? I plan to tow 10,000 lbs total boat and trailer. I haven't looked under the CW, but does it have a frame? I currently tow a 6,000 lb TT and that V-10 tows effortlessly. I just want to make sure it can handle 10K lbs.
Thanks for your help
Eddie

 

The only vans that were ever uni-body (no frame) were the dodge vans. It's pretty close to the same frame as the F-350, look in your owners manual it will give you all the towing specs.

 

The F-350 is better balanced then the 15 pass. van for towing and can tow more because it weighs less. Still, if you put DRW on it, I think it would be okay.

 

Rebocardo, the wheelbase for the E-350 Club Wagon is 138" which is fairly long. Isn't a long wheelbase better for towing? As for weight, I will tow without the 4 seats in the back. At a weight of 75 lbs each, that's 300 lbs off, plus I will not have my wife, which is a saving of 112 lbs. <g> (Nor any other load)
Pfogle, the owner's manual says I can tow 10K lb if I have the 4.10 axle. If I have the 3.73 I can tow 8,600 lbs. Problem is I don't know which axle ratio I have. :-(
Eddie

 

Rebocardo, what is DRW?
Eddie

 

DRW = dual rear wheels
there should be a tag on the rear axle to figure out the ratio

 

> Isn't a long wheelbase better for towing?

Usually, all vans are 138" WB. Most of the F-350s, except reg cab and 8 foot bed which is 138, are much longer then that. 158 for a supercab and 172 for a crewcab. This dimension pretty much follows every year Ford truck and van as far back as 1980.

The thing with the 15 pass. van is you have another +/- two feet of overhang without moving the wheelbase back farther so the hitch is closer to the rear axle. Plus, on the van you have a very large sail area as compared to a truck. Plus, the van is heavier even without the seats.

Most of the V-10 trucks are rated for 12,500 pounds towing, the vans are much less. I suspect mostly because they have been detuned as noted in another thread?

> Problem is I don't know which axle ratio I have

The code is on your door tag. Plus, you can go to Ford and get the equipment listed for your van with your VIN.

When you said heavy boat, that means to me a long boat with a large sail area. I have to assume this is going to be 24ft or greater. Which is why I would consider Dual Rear Wheels on a 15 pass. van.

You are going to put 1,000+ pounds worth of weight directly on the bumper area of a vehicle known for ill handling when loaded with passengers, because of the extra weight past the rear axle. Which is why I would consider Dual Rear Wheels on a 15 pass. van.

With the DRW and a fan powered transmission cooler, I would tow the load. The good news is a DRW axle probably is already 4.10 and is a Dana70.

 

Well, I have been enlightened! I googled Ford Van dual wheels and I have come up with some startling information. Information I did not know existed in the dangers of driving a 15-passenger van. I went to some links that included statistics on accident deaths involving the van. Very eye-opening I must say. So now it looks like I will have to spend over $2,000 to do a retro-fit. I love my van but will heed the advice from the experts re: the danger of roll-overs. It looks like I will not buy the boat trailer until I have done the conversion.
btw, I'm a professional driver and hold a commercial license plus have been driving for over 52 years without one accident. But I ain't taking no chances. Tomorrow I start shopping for a retro-fit shop in San Jose.
Thanks rebocardo for all this info. I think the dually is going to be a neccesity for this type of towing.
Eddie

 

Veetner,

Yes, it was an eye opener for me too and I have been driving Ford vans for years including the extended length cargo vans. But, once I learned about it, when I wanted a used pass. van, I skipped the 15 and got a 12. Especially with my wife driving it, I am a bit more sedate.

> So now it looks like I will have to spend over $2,000 to do a retro-fit.

Buy a cheap DRW axle from Ebay or Craiglists. I may have found one for my van for $200 from a F-350 on Craigs. It only costs $135, drum to drum, at www.pullapart.com and they usually are under a shuttle bus and there are usually three or four shuttles there.

So, check junkyards first in your area. Even if you replace all the guts in the pumpkin, it is still very cheap and if you grab an axle from a shuttle bus it will bolt right on. Then snag some DRW fenders from anything but a Dodge (because of how they attach).

Glad you could use the information.

 

I've been towing a 7,000GVW 24' enclosed car trailer behind my '99 V-10 15-pass E-350 for a couple of years now. No problems, tows just fine. These described fears about towing with a van are unfounded and not based on direct experience.

The rollover fears are also unfounded, and based primarily on people driving these things full-up and going off the road. If it really bothers you, buy these: http://www.activesuspension.com/index.htm

The only issue I have is that the older 2V restricted-head engine has just "adequate" towing capacity; I really wish I'd have bought the '00 or later with the PI heads. I installed a Yukon 4.30LS final drive (it came with a 3.73LS) and it helped, but I still want more grunt...but it gets the job done (albeit at 7mpg on the cheap stuff)...

 

Greg, thanks for the link. I like what I see. I sent off for prices. I would think this system is cheaper that DRW's. Plus I think I can instal it myself.
I lost you on the third paragraph.
Eddie

 

I paid ~$300 and installed it in a couple of hours. Invest in a very good high-capacity floor jack and some tall jackstands.

The only issue I have in - regards to towing with the V10 engine - is that the older 2V restricted-head engine has just "adequate" towing power...

 

LOL, I should have clarified, not being a mechanic, what does "2V restricted-head" mean?
Well, $300 is way cheaper than DRW's. I have a friend that owns a large body shop. I'll do the work there.
Thanks again
Eddie

 

Eddie,

2V = 2 valves per cylinder (versus 3 on the later F-350s).
PI = Peformance Improved. In '00 Ford installed higher-flow heads that increased the power output; the older ones had more-restrictive airflow.

Look for the V10 board here on ford-trucks.com. Super support and info for the V10 engines.

 

Roll overs are caused by idiots who don't drive vans everyday, they jump in the shuttle and rush, as they do in their car, ignoring the posted limits and when making a curve at high speed are supprised by it rolling over. It's easier to blame the vehicle or manufacture rather than those behind the wheel ignoring the posted limit, you can even sue a manufacture with proof you were speeding and wrecklass driving, prooving you were the cause.
I found a DRW axle for my van $800, but it had 4.63 gears, I'd like 4.10, and truck axles will not fit, spring placement and shock mount issues, not to mention the VSS inside. I'm not fond of spacers and I already have too high gears, so I'd rather just replace the entire thing and get dual wheels.