A/C Blew up?
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A/C Blew up?
So its about 110 outside yesterday and i pull in to work and let the van idle for about 5 minuites before i go in with the ac on when all of a sudden i hear a woosh sound and white smoke goes everwhere and theres a puddle of water under the van right where the ac usaly drips a little and now it just blows hot air, any one know what would have blown.. i dont want to spent tons of money at a mechanic for this... oh and my power window on the driver side is broken... its HOT
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
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The water is normal and unrelated to failure. Sounds like a hose burst or split.
Remember, underneath the crimped hose connections there is a normal hose barb that can be reassembled with quality refrigeration hose clamps. a leaking crimped joint does not have to be replaced by a 9000 dollar factory assemble. Just cut off the crimp collar and reassemble with new hose and clamp.
Ken
Remember, underneath the crimped hose connections there is a normal hose barb that can be reassembled with quality refrigeration hose clamps. a leaking crimped joint does not have to be replaced by a 9000 dollar factory assemble. Just cut off the crimp collar and reassemble with new hose and clamp.
Ken
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check your A/C hose near the steering rack. Those funny guys at Ford ran it (in the 3.0) right on the steering rack. Steering rack gets hot and melts a hole into the A/C hose. Sounds and symptoms are just like you described them, it happened to me some years ago on a hot day.
I installed a new hose and at the steering rack, I put some isolating materials around it and fastened them with two clamps. The bolt part of the clamps is resting on the steering rack so the isolated hose has now some clearance from the rack.
I installed a new hose and at the steering rack, I put some isolating materials around it and fastened them with two clamps. The bolt part of the clamps is resting on the steering rack so the isolated hose has now some clearance from the rack.
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
When you find the underlying cause be sure to get it evacuated and recharged since just "topping it off" with a can could cause you to overcharge the system.
You'll find the refrigerant charge on the sticker attached to the blower motor they will have two values one for with auxillary a/c and one without. Also FYI the high side fitting is on the passenger side next to the condenser and its not the fitting coming from the hose leaving the accumulator thats the suction line (The Low Side).
The pressure relief valves aren't there to release refrigerant to give you the proper charge. They only open if you either really overcharged the system to the point where the compressor could become damaged or as Aero said if your condenser is not being cooled efficiently due to a bad fan clutch that will raise the pressure on the high side and cause the valve to pop.
That is why when manifold gauges are installed to verify the high side and low side pressures the chart used is proportionate to temperature. However even they can't determine the charge in the system. The only way to do that is evacuate the refrigerant and weigh it.
You'll find the refrigerant charge on the sticker attached to the blower motor they will have two values one for with auxillary a/c and one without. Also FYI the high side fitting is on the passenger side next to the condenser and its not the fitting coming from the hose leaving the accumulator thats the suction line (The Low Side).
The pressure relief valves aren't there to release refrigerant to give you the proper charge. They only open if you either really overcharged the system to the point where the compressor could become damaged or as Aero said if your condenser is not being cooled efficiently due to a bad fan clutch that will raise the pressure on the high side and cause the valve to pop.
That is why when manifold gauges are installed to verify the high side and low side pressures the chart used is proportionate to temperature. However even they can't determine the charge in the system. The only way to do that is evacuate the refrigerant and weigh it.
Last edited by krankshaft; Aug 11, 2006 at 10:25 AM.
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Originally Posted by tomucen
check your A/C hose near the steering rack. Those funny guys at Ford ran it (in the 3.0) right on the steering rack. Steering rack gets hot and melts a hole into the A/C hose. Sounds and symptoms are just like you described them, it happened to me some years ago on a hot day.
I installed a new hose and at the steering rack, I put some isolating materials around it and fastened them with two clamps. The bolt part of the clamps is resting on the steering rack so the isolated hose has now some clearance from the rack.
I installed a new hose and at the steering rack, I put some isolating materials around it and fastened them with two clamps. The bolt part of the clamps is resting on the steering rack so the isolated hose has now some clearance from the rack.
That was exacley the problem, what kind of hose did you use would just normal heater hose work.. we dont have a/c parts here in canada so im not sure i would think it would be a high pressure hose?
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Also, the low side pressure rating is in a running condition with the compressor drawing down the pressure. When the system cycles off, high side and low equalize. This pressure can easily be 200 lbs on the low side and high side. Heater hose is a waste of time.
ken
ken
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Ford used Goodyear Galaxy A/C hoses on their Factory A/C lines. If you can't repair the current line then the cost for both the low and high sides in US dollars was $286.00 down from $389.00 because I complained. I still think that price is a rip off I hope you are able to find A/C grade rubber hose.
I have found a site that sells the Galaxy line of A/C hoses and also sells the crimping tools and the fittings to repair your current line check it out.
http://www.achoserepair.com/hose.html
No matter what your avenue afterwards be sure to have the system evacuated and recharged and you should be good to go
.
I have found a site that sells the Galaxy line of A/C hoses and also sells the crimping tools and the fittings to repair your current line check it out.
http://www.achoserepair.com/hose.html
No matter what your avenue afterwards be sure to have the system evacuated and recharged and you should be good to go
.
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Federated makes the hoses too 
I purchased a pressure switch and accumulator from them through Napa. Unfortunately Napa didn't carry the hoses so I assumed that they didn't make them.
I purchased a pressure switch and accumulator from them through Napa. Unfortunately Napa didn't carry the hoses so I assumed that they didn't make them.