Radio clock resets/engine missing
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Radio clock resets/engine missing
I have a 1993 f-150 6 cylinder (140k mile) that I purchased new in 1994. Recently it began "missing" and at the same time, the clock radio resets to 0:00 hrs, particularly after sitting all night. I removed both the positive and negative battery cables, cleaned them, and reinstalled... no good. Worked fine for a day and then the problem reappeared. I replaced the 5-yr old battery... still no success. Several years ago, I replace the ignition keylock, which sticks on occasion. Not sure if that could be contributing to the issue. The motor operation symptoms feel similar to having an in-tank fuel pump going out - which I've replaced both within the last 3-5 yrs. However, it doesn't explain the electrical problem and it seems unlikely that both tank pumps would fail at the same time, as the problem occurs when operating either tank.
I'm not a mechanic by trade, but was forced to learn to fix the few issues I've had with this great truck when we lived in the remote Alaskan bush. Sites like this one have been my "saving grace". Thanks much... Nickmont<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->
I'm not a mechanic by trade, but was forced to learn to fix the few issues I've had with this great truck when we lived in the remote Alaskan bush. Sites like this one have been my "saving grace". Thanks much... Nickmont<!-- google_ad_section_end --><!-- / message -->
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From: St Louis
Your symptoms are of an intermittent loss of operating power (or ground).
Of course, it it failed solid, it would be easier to locate and repair!
I would focus on the integrity of the ground cable from the battery's negative post to chassis ground. Corrosion gets going inside the insulation jacket and eats the cable into green powder. Have also seen it on the positive cable. Do check the other ends (opposite of battery) of both cables for corrosion and connection integrity.
If you have a voltmeter (multimeter), connect the leads across what is supposed to be a solid cable and then apply the heaviest load possible (headlights+blower+ whatever) and watch for any voltage to be "dropped" across what should be your heavy guage copper cable. Anything over 0.1 - 0.2 volts is suspect.
Steve
Of course, it it failed solid, it would be easier to locate and repair!
I would focus on the integrity of the ground cable from the battery's negative post to chassis ground. Corrosion gets going inside the insulation jacket and eats the cable into green powder. Have also seen it on the positive cable. Do check the other ends (opposite of battery) of both cables for corrosion and connection integrity.
If you have a voltmeter (multimeter), connect the leads across what is supposed to be a solid cable and then apply the heaviest load possible (headlights+blower+ whatever) and watch for any voltage to be "dropped" across what should be your heavy guage copper cable. Anything over 0.1 - 0.2 volts is suspect.
Steve
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From: Virginia
Also check for any small ground wires coming off the battery negative cable. I can't keep track of all the different years, but some had a small ground wire coming off the negative cable, which goes to a connector, and then is the ground for the engine computer. Several people have had this smaller wire get corroded or pinched behind the battery.
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After 13 years of great service from this truck, I can certainly spring for a net set of cables. I have cleaned them numerous times over the years... sometimes not as frequently as I should have. I will see if I can pick up a set next weekend and install and will post the outcome. Again... thank you much for your advise.
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Thanks!!
Went to the Ford Dealership... $36 for the neg and $132 for the pos cables, which they didn't carry in stock. Went to the local Autoparts shop... $9 for the negative, $10 for the positive (although the positive looks much different). Installed the neg and wala... problems solved as you suspected. Looking at the old cable, there are no externally visable signs of corrosion. Interesting as I cleaned and filed the neg grd points and the battery pole and reinstalled ... to no avail. You called it with internal problems. Thank you both for your help.
Now I need to find a Ford pos cable at a decent price and I will feel good abot the repair. nickmont
Now I need to find a Ford pos cable at a decent price and I will feel good abot the repair. nickmont
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From: Cullman Alabama
Hmmmm, my Clock has never reset, but I get that Engine miss a lot. It's aggrevating to have a problem that offers no hints.
I'll try a new negative Cable. Thanks.
I'll try a new negative Cable. Thanks.
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Problem Solved... Thanks
I finally did replace both the neg and pos battery cables... purchased ford parts online at less than half the price from my local Ford dealership. Clock does not reset now and the engine miss has quit. Thanks for the assistance. I cut open the neg cable and it was indeed full of white powder next to the terminal.
nickmont
nickmont
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That internal corrosion is very common and sneaks up on a person.
I usually end up making my own cables since the "correct" OEM cables are so expensive or just unobtainable. The aftermarket parts stores cables usually aren't right. Normally I buy the "lead free" type terminals and then proceed to solder the cable and extra wires needed into them with 60/40 lead solder. Sometimes the OEM cable can even be shortened up and cleaned well enuf to solder into the terminal. Sometimes I have to replace the entire cable but I can usually buy a simple (read cheaper) cable for the replacement and then make it "right".
One thing to remember about the replacement cables from the parts stores. Usually the flat bolt down ends are punched for a 3/8" stud like Chevy uses so there is not much left of them and there is not much left of the wires. They make a poor connection.
I buy the proper terminals for the 5/16" stud Ford uses from an electrical supply house or welding shop and replace them.
Save all your old cables, they can be made into shorter cables if you keep a few terminals around...
The last cables I made converted a side post battery installation into a top post. I hate side post batteries.
I usually end up making my own cables since the "correct" OEM cables are so expensive or just unobtainable. The aftermarket parts stores cables usually aren't right. Normally I buy the "lead free" type terminals and then proceed to solder the cable and extra wires needed into them with 60/40 lead solder. Sometimes the OEM cable can even be shortened up and cleaned well enuf to solder into the terminal. Sometimes I have to replace the entire cable but I can usually buy a simple (read cheaper) cable for the replacement and then make it "right".
One thing to remember about the replacement cables from the parts stores. Usually the flat bolt down ends are punched for a 3/8" stud like Chevy uses so there is not much left of them and there is not much left of the wires. They make a poor connection.
I buy the proper terminals for the 5/16" stud Ford uses from an electrical supply house or welding shop and replace them.Save all your old cables, they can be made into shorter cables if you keep a few terminals around...
The last cables I made converted a side post battery installation into a top post. I hate side post batteries.
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