Fuel filter replacement
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL
Fuel filter replacement
well the 3rd fuel filter change and I havent figured out how to make it any easier on myself. this time I did receive a good diesel bath though which was quiet amusing - undoubtely in the course of the 3-1/2 hours I had to stop replacing them the HFCM filled backed up and I didnt think about it beforehand of finally unloosening the filter cap.
My question is on the 05' FX4's is there really anyway to get the driveshaft out of the way and keep the tension minimal on fuel lines going into the HFCM? it is a really cramped area to be underneath the truck and not have enough space to torque with on the cap without fear of the socket slipping and returning you with busted knuckles or a stripped cap. I hada thought of driving the drivers side up on a couple blocks to change the direction of the drive shaft - would that help or does anyone have any tips on not have to "short stroke myself to death?"
My question is on the 05' FX4's is there really anyway to get the driveshaft out of the way and keep the tension minimal on fuel lines going into the HFCM? it is a really cramped area to be underneath the truck and not have enough space to torque with on the cap without fear of the socket slipping and returning you with busted knuckles or a stripped cap. I hada thought of driving the drivers side up on a couple blocks to change the direction of the drive shaft - would that help or does anyone have any tips on not have to "short stroke myself to death?"
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
Best advise I've heard is to wait until your fuel level is down below 1/4 tank. The lower, the better as you won't lose as much fuel when you unscrew the filter cap. Another is to have the truck with a nose UP attitude. Also to replace the original drain valve with the International P/N 258925C91. It has a knurlled **** as if you round out the hex key slot, you have somewhere to grab onto with vice grips...and it directs the fuel so you can catch it in a can easier and it won't drench your front drive shaft ( and your shirt/arm).
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 29
i dont think there is a way around 'short stroking'. However, even so, my filter change on my 05 took less than 10 mins. I just did it with well less than 1/4 tank, opened the plug, let drain all of about a cup of diesel out, the unscrewed the filter cap and out it came. I remember having to do a bit of filter jockying, but i put the filter into the cap, and then screwed the assembly in.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Mililani, Hawaii
I just changed mine about 10 minutes ago. I drained the HFCM first then carefully opened the filter and used a rag to put under it as I pulled it out slowly and carefully. The only diesel that spilled was what was on the filter. This was the best one yet.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Mililani, Hawaii
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: McDonald, Pa
There is a special fuel/oil filter 3/8" Drive socket you can buy for about $10 - $15. I bought mine on Ebay. It is definitely worth the time and aggravation.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 224
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From: Trophy Club Texas
Just did mine over the weekend. True that the driveshaft is rather inconveniently placed, but wasn't bad at all. I might try using an extension on the ratchet next time, but short stroking worked for me. Replaced the original drain plug with the brass one. Got 2 filters and the drain from International for total of 43.36
dlp
dlp
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 20
I made a drain valve for my X. Took the hex plug, drilled it out and taped it for 1/8th pipe threads, got a 90° elbow, a 4" length of pipe, a female coupling and a drain valve from my local hardware store for about $10.00. Put it all together and it works great. Now when I change the filter I just open it and walk away until it drains. Also, if I have to drain it on a trip, I just reach under the X and open it. I don't need any tools and don't have to crawl under the X with an allen wrench to fight the hex plug or the knurled ****. I did this because my WIF lite kept coming on and I had to drain it about 4 times before all of the water came out. The hex plug is a PITA.
DSMMH
DSMMH
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
I just changed mine for the first time. tank was about a 1/4 full. Parked truck on an incline. I used an oil filter wrench which made short stroking relatively easy. After 19,000 miles, I did not see hardly any water in the reservoir. I took me about 15 minutes. Filters came from a truck parts store and cost me about $50.00.
Beat paying the dealer. I learned a lot from you guys before I tried it. Thanks for your insight.
Beat paying the dealer. I learned a lot from you guys before I tried it. Thanks for your insight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 1
From: Port St. Lucie, FL
Originally Posted by DSMMH
I made a drain valve for my X. Took the hex plug, drilled it out and taped it for 1/8th pipe threads, got a 90° elbow, a 4" length of pipe, a female coupling and a drain valve from my local hardware store for about $10.00. Put it all together and it works great. Now when I change the filter I just open it and walk away until it drains. Also, if I have to drain it on a trip, I just reach under the X and open it. I don't need any tools and don't have to crawl under the X with an allen wrench to fight the hex plug or the knurled ****. I did this because my WIF lite kept coming on and I had to drain it about 4 times before all of the water came out. The hex plug is a PITA.
DSMMH
DSMMH
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 19,098
Likes: 8
From: Great State of Texas
Yes, please do. You will get your 15 seconds of fame in the 6.0 Tech Folder. If it's to late for that please review your instructions and make sure you detailed everything and I will get that in the Tech Folder anyway.
Thanks for sharing...
Thanks for sharing...