[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Sep-02 AT 08:31 PM (EST)]I had a leak from my diff, so I changed out the main gasket. While I was removing the housing, a dime-sized copper-colored washer fell out onto my hand. I didn't know where it came from, so I put it aside to get to it later. After changing my gasket and re-assembling the diff, I noticed that I had forgotten to put the washer back in.

I am looking at it right now. Three questions...

1. Where did it come from?
2. How necessary is it?
3. Could it be responsible for the slight vibration I am now feeling in the cab once I get to 30mph or so?

4. If no on number 3, could I have screwed up a u-joint when I pulled the drive-shaft? How do I check?

PLEASE HELP! The truck has been out of commission for 4wks while the engine was being rebuilt. I NEED to get it on the road!

Thanks for any and all help.

Will

PS... How 'bout that Ryan Newman!?! Go 12!

 

It came from under one of the nuts that hold the hoghead in. There should have been one under each nut. Sometimes they stick to the grease and dirt and never come off of the hoghead itself.
Jimmy

 

Great. When you say the hogshead, are you talking about the main housing with the 10 bolts around it? If so, that means it didn't come from inside. It was the only one. I suppose I'll put new ones on.

Is there a way to know if my U-joint is okay?

Thanks!

 

Yeah, that's what I meant, some people call it a hoghead, some people call it a pumpkin, it is actually the 3rd member.

I think that the factory put them on there to keep any fluid from leaking around the studs.

The U-joint should have no play in it. With the truck in neutral with the parking brake on, grab the driveshaft and turn it back and forth, it should move a little, while doing this, watch the joints, the yoke going into the tranny should move the same as the driveshaft and so should the pinion on the rearend, with no play in the u-joints.

Jimmy

 

Will, I think you have the washer thing resolved, want to try something simple? Remove the driveshaft, rotate it 180? and put it back in. That might tell you if the U joints need replacing.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

What will that prove?? It shouldn't make a difference unless it was balanced on the truck. I've never heard that before.

 

Then forget I suggested it.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Will, one thing that hasn't been mentioned, do you have a one or two piece driveshaft. It is very common to get two piece driveshafts out of phase. This will cause a vibration like you describe. To make sure it's right the U-joint caps on any given section of drive shaft must line up with the caps at the opposite end. If it's not right separate the shaft at the slip yolk and correct it. Worn U-joints will usually not vibrate without some other indication of a problem, like clunking going from reverse to foward. Hope this solves it and Good Luck, Rich.

 

John, I wasn't trying to be a smart &%$ or anything, I just didn't understand how that would help. I have heard this before, but the driveshaft is balanced as a separate unit, so it can be put in either way. Jimmy

 

Jimmy, Have you tried it yet? Could be that phase thang Rich was referring to, sometimes when my forgetter is kicked in hard I can't remember why it works.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

The 180 swap works with CV Joints realy good. It works cause your loading the side of the joint that is not as worn. It will still vibrate some just not as bad cause the joint can roll on the good needles vs binding then popping over several needles on the flatend needles.

44Dwarf

PS: my bet is on an out of phase shaft.

 

I guess if it was a 2 piece drive shaft that would work. I see no benifit to a one piece driveshaft though. Even if you remove it and spin it 180, you are still putting pressure on the same side of the u-joint. As cheap as they are(about 6 to 10 bucks) I would just replace them to be sure.

 

Sometimes u-joints can be bad, without hint of vibration OR clunking. I cannot count how many u-joints I have pulled off trucks and rigs that had very rough bearing surfaces, but did not vibrate. As for the driveshaft trick, it does work sometimes. But as lxman said, if the driveshaft was balanced off the truck, it wouldn't matter much. Even so, it doesn't hurt to try it. Also, if you have a carrier bearing (aka driveshaft center bearing, or what have you) then check that out. They are often overlooked. The rubber around them wears out, gets sloppy, and even a misalignment of it can cause vibrations in the driveline. If you do not have one, disregard.

And yes, u-joints are cheap. It does not hurt to replace them all, it's less of a worry down the line. Keep them greased! Like I said, some u-joints can be on the verge of giving up the ghost and give you no warning until near the last minute, and busting a front u-joint while rolling down the street (or freeway!) can prove disastrous. I have seen this happen simply because of lack of grease. Fortunately, this is rare, and a driveshaft safety loop is very cheap.

Last and definitely not least, how are your rear tires? Another overlooked and underrated item! Worn out tires, regardless of recent balancing, can cause driveline vibrations. IMO, tires are the most important thing on ANY vehicle, running or not.

Preventive maintenance is no oxymoron. But moron he will be who prevents maintenance.

-Zen-

 

Thanks for all the help, folks. I've replaced the U-joints and have solved the problem. As it turns out, I had a needle bearing that had fallen into the bottom of the joint. This happened when I removed the drive shaft the first time. I didn't notice it and just put it back together. All is right in the world. Thanks again.

Will