3 Bulb Tail Lights
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3 Bulb Tail Lights
Ok, another question. My wife backed over the garbage can and smashed a rear tail light on my 01 Excursion. I jumped on ebay looking for a replacement and found a better looking aftermarket set for about the same price as an original so I bought the aftermarket set.
Everything was great but when I removed the original I discovered that while from the outside it looked like a three bulb light, inside it really only had two bulbs... and of course the new tail lights which the manufacturer said were made for my truck are meant to accommodate three bulbs. <O
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So, for the moment I just installed them and left the top bulb hole empty, but I would like to convert them to three bulbs if possible. Can I just splice the existing wires and add another bulb or will that fry the wires by pulling to much current? What problems might I run into and are there any other solutions? Please help, thanks. <O</O
Everything was great but when I removed the original I discovered that while from the outside it looked like a three bulb light, inside it really only had two bulbs... and of course the new tail lights which the manufacturer said were made for my truck are meant to accommodate three bulbs. <O
</O<O
</OSo, for the moment I just installed them and left the top bulb hole empty, but I would like to convert them to three bulbs if possible. Can I just splice the existing wires and add another bulb or will that fry the wires by pulling to much current? What problems might I run into and are there any other solutions? Please help, thanks. <O
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Here are the Tail Lights I put on, as you can see they have a clear light at the bottom, a red in the middle, and a red at the top. Here is an OEM tail light that includes a picture of the back, again it will accommodate three bulbs but the top hole has been filled with a blank instead. The way the light reflects on the OEM it looks fine with only two bulbs but on the new ones it looks strange not having the top one lit.
<O</O
I’m guessing that the easiest way to add a third bulb will be to splice into the middle light's wiring which will result in both “red bulbs” lighting at the same time. My concern is that I don’t know if the wiring and fuse was “over engineered” or just designed to carry the appropriate current for the existing bulbs. Since its wired for a trailer I’d guess that I’d be OK running a couple extra bulbs but of course what happens when I’m actually towing a trailer, I couldn’t think of a worse time to completely fry the wires. So can the existing wires handle the existing bulbs, a few new ones, and a full set of trailer lights? I don’t know and I don’t know where to find out. I’d be very grateful for any advice I can get. <O</O
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</OI’m guessing that the easiest way to add a third bulb will be to splice into the middle light's wiring which will result in both “red bulbs” lighting at the same time. My concern is that I don’t know if the wiring and fuse was “over engineered” or just designed to carry the appropriate current for the existing bulbs. Since its wired for a trailer I’d guess that I’d be OK running a couple extra bulbs but of course what happens when I’m actually towing a trailer, I couldn’t think of a worse time to completely fry the wires. So can the existing wires handle the existing bulbs, a few new ones, and a full set of trailer lights? I don’t know and I don’t know where to find out. I’d be very grateful for any advice I can get. <O
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: SE PA
I'd bet there's no problem with getting a pair of sockets and splicing them in.
If your '01 is like my '05...and I'd bet it is...your trailer lamps are handled by relays under the hood....they are not tied to the truck's tail lamps.
I cannot understand why the aftermarket ones would not match up in terms of the number of bulbs. (Another hand-crafted quality item from China.)
Excursions and Econolines share tallights. The difference is in the gasket that seals them to the body. Early vans had amber turn sigs in the top part (where the block off is), red stop/brake lamps and then the reverse lamps. When Ford did away with the amber turn sigs, they merely modified the molds.
If you look at my gallery, you will see that I converted my Ex to have the earlier amber turn sig van lamps. It was a bit of wiring, but I am thrilled with this mod.
If your '01 is like my '05...and I'd bet it is...your trailer lamps are handled by relays under the hood....they are not tied to the truck's tail lamps.
I cannot understand why the aftermarket ones would not match up in terms of the number of bulbs. (Another hand-crafted quality item from China.)
Excursions and Econolines share tallights. The difference is in the gasket that seals them to the body. Early vans had amber turn sigs in the top part (where the block off is), red stop/brake lamps and then the reverse lamps. When Ford did away with the amber turn sigs, they merely modified the molds.
If you look at my gallery, you will see that I converted my Ex to have the earlier amber turn sig van lamps. It was a bit of wiring, but I am thrilled with this mod.
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Wow, that explains the blank in the top hole of the OEM. Where on earth do you find that kind of info??? I agree that it’s ridiculous not having the number of bulbs match between the OSM and the aftermarket.
My only concern with splicing in another pair of sockets is that I’m doubling the current that is normally drawn by the middle bulb.
You have opened a whole new option. How hard was it to split the turn signals from the rest of the light functions? Having worked with it already do you think it would be possible to split off just the break lights in the same manner? Looking at the aftermarket picture I provided above would you split up the light functions like you did with the Amber OEM’s? Do you think it would be strange to make the top light the turn signal and running light, the middle just brakes, and the bottom the reverse?
My only concern with splicing in another pair of sockets is that I’m doubling the current that is normally drawn by the middle bulb.
You have opened a whole new option. How hard was it to split the turn signals from the rest of the light functions? Having worked with it already do you think it would be possible to split off just the break lights in the same manner? Looking at the aftermarket picture I provided above would you split up the light functions like you did with the Amber OEM’s? Do you think it would be strange to make the top light the turn signal and running light, the middle just brakes, and the bottom the reverse?
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From: SE PA
xTraveler….look here…..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=425399
You will need to cut the green wire on top of the column, otherwise your turn sigs will also act as stop lights. One caveat here. You will loose your trailer brake lights too. I found this out months after I did the tail light swap. I found the two relays under the hood that handle the trailer brake-turn sigs. I wired a Hoppy 48845 ahead of these relays..all works now. This unit is for adding trailer wiring to a vehicle with independent brake and turn sigs.
If you’re not into that much work…you could just double up what you have now.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=425399
You will need to cut the green wire on top of the column, otherwise your turn sigs will also act as stop lights. One caveat here. You will loose your trailer brake lights too. I found this out months after I did the tail light swap. I found the two relays under the hood that handle the trailer brake-turn sigs. I wired a Hoppy 48845 ahead of these relays..all works now. This unit is for adding trailer wiring to a vehicle with independent brake and turn sigs.
If you’re not into that much work…you could just double up what you have now.
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From: Milwauke WI
The electric current concern about overloading the wires can be handled easily, simply use a LED bulb for the add-on bulb.
In addition, you have an easy place to get a brake light only feed, that is from the wire under the dash that is designed to go to your electric trailer brake controller, or the wire going to your high-mount/third brake light.
Turn Signal only of course is available from the wires that go to your Front turn signals.
In addition, you have an easy place to get a brake light only feed, that is from the wire under the dash that is designed to go to your electric trailer brake controller, or the wire going to your high-mount/third brake light.
Turn Signal only of course is available from the wires that go to your Front turn signals.
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: SE PA
ExcursionPSD is correct, there is a way to pull the brake light feed from the dash...but then you have to run the wire all the way to the back. I used the CHMSL feed, a green wire just over the headliner in the rear. Only had to pop a molding off and reach in. Then, it;s a short run down the D pillar, coming out behind a taillight.
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I agree Matt that it would be easier not to run a wire all the way from the front to the back but ExcursionPSD, using a LED would be a great idea to prevent overloading the wires. I did not even realize they were available as replacements for standard bulbs until you mentioned it. But having read a number of ads on ebay I’m now tempted to switch out all of my rear bulbs. Has anyone else on the forum switched over? Are they as bright as normal bulbs? What is the life expectancy in comparison? Would you recommend a specific brand or company? Thanks again for all your help.
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From: SE PA
There are other issues with "some" LED bulbs. Some vehicles need to have their flasher unit replaced as the LED cause the original ones to malfunction. Something to do with the lesser pwoer required to run the LEDs causes the lights to flash as though there was a bulb burned out. I'm also not sure that they are legal.
If you want to swap to LEDs, that's cool. But, I would not do that simply to avoid a potential problem. I have been running both my stop lights from a single CHMSL feed for a year with no issue.
If you want to swap to LEDs, that's cool. But, I would not do that simply to avoid a potential problem. I have been running both my stop lights from a single CHMSL feed for a year with no issue.
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I would not have even considered switching to LED before I looked them up on ebay. Any potential problems are a good reason not to switch so I’ll avoid them for turn signals but on the break light only… if I can get a brighter bulb that uses less energy and last longer… well that’s tempting. Has anyone tried them and do they live up to the manufacturers hype?
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From: Milwauke WI
Ford TSB 04-18-15 spells out current ratings for the flashing bulbs on the vehicle circuits, (not the trailer circuits).
A very good LED light & accessory supplier that also has the electronic flasher units which are not affected by reduced current draw is AutoLumination flashers and equalizers.
Another solution to reduced current draw making flashers go too fast are equalizers. The equalizers are a 'false load' that fools your existing flashers into thinking there is an appropriate number of bulbs hooked up. They convert electricity into heat, however and you need to be careful where they are mounted.
ISSUE When adding additional bulbs to the turn signal or hazard flasher circuits, isolation relays must be used in order to prevent damage to the flasher relay module and/or the multi-function switch, and to prevent erratic operation.
ACTION The following current ranges must be adhered to on
the original flasher circuitry:
• Minimum rated current for the turn signal (either left or right) is 4.45A, at 12.8V and the maximum rated current is 5.06A at 12.8V
• Turn signal current draw below 2.83A at 12.8V will cause the flasher to flash rapidly
• Minimum rated current for the hazard flasher is 4.20A at 12.8V and the maximum rated current is 10.12A at 12.8V
• Any additional current load above the maximum rating must use isolation relays. Refer to (Figure 1) typical relay installation illustration.
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only - Not Warrantable
ACTION The following current ranges must be adhered to on
the original flasher circuitry:
• Minimum rated current for the turn signal (either left or right) is 4.45A, at 12.8V and the maximum rated current is 5.06A at 12.8V
• Turn signal current draw below 2.83A at 12.8V will cause the flasher to flash rapidly
• Minimum rated current for the hazard flasher is 4.20A at 12.8V and the maximum rated current is 10.12A at 12.8V
• Any additional current load above the maximum rating must use isolation relays. Refer to (Figure 1) typical relay installation illustration.
WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only - Not Warrantable
Another solution to reduced current draw making flashers go too fast are equalizers. The equalizers are a 'false load' that fools your existing flashers into thinking there is an appropriate number of bulbs hooked up. They convert electricity into heat, however and you need to be careful where they are mounted.
Last edited by ExcursionPSD; Aug 1, 2006 at 04:22 PM.
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I switched over to LED's when they first came out a few years ago. They are perfectly legal and in fact are brighter and come on much quicker than a regular bulb. Check out ebay, there are lots of venders that sell them. One hint for buying LED's - choose a bulb with at least 24 or more LED's in it. They are the brightest. Even better are the ones that have some of them facing the reflecter inside the housing for filling the whole lense with light. And buy the color you are replacing, red for the rear, amber for the front. Hope this helps.
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Forgot one thing. Buy a flasher designed for LED's. $15 at Checker here. A pain in the a** to get to change under the dash, but the easiest fix for the rapid flash when you put LED's in. If you can't find it under the dash, just put the turn signal on and double joint yourself under the dash. Mine was to the right of the steering column above the OBD port.
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Wow, when I started I had a pretty good idea of what to do. Now I have like 500 cool options I'll have to check out or forever doubt my choice. And the more I look at LED's the more options I find. Thank you very much for all the info and advice.