87 AC Problem
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Freshman User
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From: California Central Coast
87 AC Problem
My AC wont turn on in my 87 F-250 6.9 Diesel. The compressor works, I gave it 12v and it turned on and ran smoothly however it will not turn on when I push the AC button to the on position. I tested for power at the compressor and all the way back to where the wires go into the cab and got nothing. The fuse is not blown. I guess it could be the switch in the dash or a wire somewhere in between? So I should take the dash apart? Please help me out, it hot, thanks.
Truck runs like a champ on self made Biodiesel.
Truck runs like a champ on self made Biodiesel.
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From: Kansas City
Have you tested the refrigerant pressure?
(is it r-12 or r-134a)
There is a circuit that shuts down the compressor for high or low pressure. If your gas leaked out, it wont start the compressor.
(is it r-12 or r-134a)
There is a circuit that shuts down the compressor for high or low pressure. If your gas leaked out, it wont start the compressor.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: southern kentucky
Originally Posted by clstrfbc
Have you tested the refrigerant pressure?
(is it r-12 or r-134a)
There is a circuit that shuts down the compressor for high or low pressure. If your gas leaked out, it wont start the compressor.
(is it r-12 or r-134a)
There is a circuit that shuts down the compressor for high or low pressure. If your gas leaked out, it wont start the compressor.
if you'r system is R-12 then you can get a 134a conversion kit, not a problem since your system is empty right now, make sure you get the new "O"ring kit. and follow the directions that come with the retrofit kit. make sure you know what side is the low side. NEVER CONNECT TO HIGH SIDE! pressure of 85 psi +
when you connect the freeon charge hose to the low side port, with supplied adapter , and with engine running and ac switches set to max ac, open freeon valve to charge system after a sec the compressor will start to run. keep charging the system and use the guage between each can of freeon to get the ideal pressure. the guage should be marked what is ideal for auto's.
but usually takes 3 cans.
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From: California Central Coast
Alright thanks. Since my compressor does not turn on and obviously the vents just blow hot air, is it safe to assume that the system is empty and does not need to be evacuated prior to charging? The cheapest AC guage I could find was fifty bucks, I am wondering if I should just take it to a shop for the retrofit and charge. Also can the original compressor handle r-134a? I read somewhere on the forum that it may not be capable of handling the new refrigerant. A/C would be great but I am not prepared for several hundred dollar job. Thanks again.
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From: Kansas City
There is a kit that comes with three cans or r134a, with oil and leakstop in them, It also comes with the hose to put it on.
If you take it somewhere, 9 times out of 10 they will tell you to:
replace the dryer, replace/clean the orfice, replace/rebuild compressor.
And they will tell you it will cost anywhere from 600-900 bucks.
If you feel like risking it you can add the retro kit for about 40$. I've seen it work for several people.
Oils and seals may not last forever, but, if your going to replace the compressor anyway it doesn't really matter does it. The biggest thing is that old oil doesn't work with the new refrigerant. So you need to replace it. The kits have the new oil in them.
If you take it somewhere, 9 times out of 10 they will tell you to:
replace the dryer, replace/clean the orfice, replace/rebuild compressor.
And they will tell you it will cost anywhere from 600-900 bucks.
If you feel like risking it you can add the retro kit for about 40$. I've seen it work for several people.
Oils and seals may not last forever, but, if your going to replace the compressor anyway it doesn't really matter does it. The biggest thing is that old oil doesn't work with the new refrigerant. So you need to replace it. The kits have the new oil in them.
Last edited by clstrfbc; Jul 30, 2006 at 07:03 PM.
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From: California Central Coast
Yes I agree, would have to replace the compressor anyway so...
Sorry,I know alot about my ford diesel, I have had a few, but I dont know d!ck about charging a/c. I actually just bought the kit your talking about for $45. Should I still have the system evacuated first? I'd like to replace the o-rings, where are they? I'm assuming at the metal to metal intersections. Can you just unscrew these connections or are they under pressure? Thanks so far, again I apologize I'm not A/C savy.
Sorry,I know alot about my ford diesel, I have had a few, but I dont know d!ck about charging a/c. I actually just bought the kit your talking about for $45. Should I still have the system evacuated first? I'd like to replace the o-rings, where are they? I'm assuming at the metal to metal intersections. Can you just unscrew these connections or are they under pressure? Thanks so far, again I apologize I'm not A/C savy.
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From: Kansas City
I dont know which orings they come with. If they are about 1/2 inch they are probably where the compressor connects to the tubing, and or the connections for testing and filling.
If it still has any pressure, you should have it evacuated. If it's completely empty there is no point. Be WARNED if there is some refrig left, it's illegal to just let it out, and it would be very cold too. It's always a good idea to wear gloves. It's important to evacuate it before you refill, if you break a connection, like replacing orings, or a compressor. That takes all regular air and water out of the pipes. Refrig and water combine to form acid and eat the metal away.
There are several places that make air powered vacuum pumps for taking air and moisture out of the system. harborfrieght, cummins tools... Northern probably.
If it still has any pressure, you should have it evacuated. If it's completely empty there is no point. Be WARNED if there is some refrig left, it's illegal to just let it out, and it would be very cold too. It's always a good idea to wear gloves. It's important to evacuate it before you refill, if you break a connection, like replacing orings, or a compressor. That takes all regular air and water out of the pipes. Refrig and water combine to form acid and eat the metal away.
There are several places that make air powered vacuum pumps for taking air and moisture out of the system. harborfrieght, cummins tools... Northern probably.
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From: southern kentucky
Sorry,I know alot about my ford diesel, I have had a few, but I dont know d!ck about charging a/c. I actually just bought the kit your talking about for $45. Should I still have the system evacuated first? I'd like to replace the o-rings, where are they? I'm assuming at the metal to metal intersections. Can you just unscrew these connections or are they under pressure? Thanks so far, again I apologize I'm not A/C savy.
normally the ac lines would be under pressure, but yours is probably empty.
when you remove the lines from the back of the compressor you should see the orings, also there should be more at the hose connections some manuals have a good photo showing where to find them.
and you should have the system evacuated incase the system has any harmfull moisture built up in it, that would be caused by a bad drier . or a hole/leak in the lines and or orings intering the system from outside air and causing rust and damage to you'r compressor.
Last edited by fordsfairlane; Jul 30, 2006 at 09:34 PM. Reason: corrections to post
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From: California Central Coast
High side low side?
Which side is the high side? The port up by the firewall (larger theads) or the port closer to the front of the truck between the condensor and the compressor? I ask because the guys at the shop who evacuated the system of r-12 today told me the high side was the one by the firewall however the fittings in the kit I bought tell me otherwise. I rather not have the r-134 can explode shrapnel in my mug, if possible. If needed I will post photos. Thanks again.
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Freshman User
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From: California Central Coast
Originally Posted by clstrfbc
If you take it somewhere, 9 times out of 10 they will tell you to:replace the dryer, replace/clean the orfice, replace/rebuild compressor.
And they will tell you it will cost anywhere from 600-900 bucks.
And they will tell you it will cost anywhere from 600-900 bucks.
Last edited by Bioford; Jul 31, 2006 at 06:54 PM. Reason: forgot quotes