Hey yall, I have posted several times before but have never really introduced myself. I am a proud owner of a 64 F100 3spd 292 longbed. I am wanting to change over to front disk brakes, currently looking at ECI. This is probably a dumb question but here goes do i need to change out my master cylinder, its the old fruit jar type. If I do need to change it what type would be the easiest to change to.
thanks

 

Mark: If you convert to disc brakes, you MUST use a dual ported master cylinder designed for disc brakes. Your old style, although adequate for your drums, doesn't have the volume capacity to safely activate the calipers with their large pistons.
Also, because you have the front leaf rather than the I-beam front suspension, you'll need to make sure the hubs and rotors will work properly on your setup. I am only familiar with the Twin I-beams and their conversions, so you will need to ask someone else who has done the conversion on your type truck before, but I believe that you will need to purchase aftermarket hubs and spindles for your truck, rather than use a 70's donor truck.
Now, it is possible to achieve the safety of a dual ported master cylinder, yet keep your drums. It is a cost-effective way of doing it. You will need a dual drum master cylinder and the splitter or proportioning valve from a 66 or earlier Mustang. You can get the tubing from a truck, or you can make new ones yourself. Of course, if you later upgrade to discs, you'll need a master cylinder for discs. (They have an extra valve to retain nominal pressure in the brake system.)

 

What do you think is the best way to go disks or drums? The truck doesnt get driven a whole lot, but I would like to be able to haul my bass boat with it safely. I had seen an advertisement for a conversion to disks for a 64 and thought that it might be a good idea. What Im wanting is safety with an affordable price that is fairly easy to install. Thanks for you time and wisdom.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 24-Aug-02 AT 10:16 AM (EST)]I have a '62 stepside that I am planning to do the disc brake conversion on. The kit that ECI sells looks like a good deal and from my research, you don't have to change spindles. Later model ford truck rotors will fit on the spindle with the use of a combination of bearings. I don't remember exactly which one you swap, but I think the outer bearing comes from your '64 and the inner bearing is off of the newer ford. Don't quote me on that as it may be the other way around. Though, getting the rotors and calipers on my truck are the least of my concerns.

The issue I am trying to deal with is the booster/master cylinder. There are a couple of options for this truck. If you read the tech article by Skip about the early brakes you'll get some good advice. It is essential that the volume output of the master matches the required volume and pressure of the calipers. If your master is over or undersized you will have poor braking performance. Drum brakes require around 600~800psi while discs are happy around 1200psi or higher. This is why it is essential to replace the master with a dual that is specificly for disc/drum. Early mustangs had the option of manual disc/drum brakes and it might be possible to use a master from that. But, IMHO, I believe that if I am going to the trouble of adding disc brakes, I want a power booster. It not only makes stopping a little easier, but it helps get the pressures up without standing on the peddle.

According to my father, the old drum brakes (when properly adjusted) would not pull to one side or the other. My personal experience tells me otherwise. I had a '71 with power drums which had all new components from the firewall to the wheel. I adjusted them properly and had 2 shops try and adjust them properly and it always pulled. Not much, but always. Thus the advantage to going to front power disc.

I am currently working on this swap, and will update with part numbers, volume info, and pics as I can. I'm getting an Electronics Engineering degree from Texas A&M (Class of '02--only a year left ) so I only get to work on my baby on the weekends (if I'm lucky) Good luck with the swap, if you choose to do it.

Check this article out, it explains quite a bit about brakes http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/brakes/brakes.htm

Tyson

(sorry for such a long post )

 

Tyson has some good info there, but I have to agree with his dad. Every time I have had properly adjusted drum brakes pull to one side or the other, it was caused by
1. Bad wheel cylinder on the non-pulling side.
2. Inadequate pressure, blockage, or malfunctioning splitter valve on the non-pulling side.
3. Out of round drum or shoes on the pulling side.
4. Tire problems (differing sizes, treads, pressures)
5. Unbalanced load or suspension.
Just my opinon, though!
I am working towards replacing my front drums with power discs, so I'm not THAT fond of drums. I just believe they get a worse rap than they deserve sometimes.

 

I just believe they
>get a worse rap than they deserve sometimes.

Glad to hear someone say that, I've got drums and will keep them, when maintained properly they work just fine, for me. Plus there are a few tricks to help keep them working.
Robert

 

I have looked at the ECI kits & have some questions about them. Anyone feel up to fielding some?

 

My only reason for not using the ECI and similar kits was due to the use of an inner bearing adapter supplied. If the bearing fails and siezes, it can cause the adapter to spin on the spindle and damage it. I realize the same can happen to a stock bearing as well but that adapter scares me.

 

Hi I owne a 61 unibody i put disk brake in the front using the eci kit.The kit i use was just the mounting brackets.There is a instruction sheet telling you what parts to use.Rotors off 78or79 trucks,calipers&pads off big chev cars in the 70;s an bearings.The spindles are the ones on youre truck now.Follow the instruction on youre sheet an you wont have any problem.

 

Sorry i forgot to tell you that the master cylinder was off a 78or79 truck to an the proportioning valve to.That is what i use an its working find.

 

What I'm thinking is a set of rotors from a '69 to '73 Mustang, a caliper from a big Chevy, & making my own bracket to hang the caliper.

 

ECI sells the brackets, bearings, spacers, and seals for $100.00. I don't think the time you will spend making your own brackets is worth it, but that's a decision you need to make. After you make the brackets, you will still need to buy the bearings, spacers, and seals. As far as the bearing spacer spinning, can't you use Loctite or stake the spacer?

 

It's more the fact of all those different part numbers from all those different cars, gotta keep track of the stuff. The outer bearings are the same on both, the inner is the truck bearing. As for making it, I have the equipment to do it so that's not a problem. I also have the rotors & calipers from some junkers around here. I've also thought about turning down the center of the hub so my 3 1/2" welds will clear(about.100) & just re-drill them to a 4 1/2" pattern.

 

>It's more the fact of all those different part numbers from
>all those different cars, gotta keep track of the stuff.

I found that by keeping reciepts or the written part numbers for all of my vehicles in a binder, I can always go back with what I uses originally. I do this for air, oil, and gas filters, as well as all other hard parts on the vehicles. Believe me, 5 years down the road, you wont be able to remember the manufacturer and part number of anything!

 

I use a shappie marker on the under side of the hood for things like filter numbers drain plug wrench size and oil cap.
ie: 5.2 quarts PH8a 7/8 drain.
Also list fireing order cause my 302 runs on a 351 fire order due to cam swap.