I am building a 53 F100. On the underside of the cab, fenders, etc. I want to apply a rust proofing paint. This truck is intended to be a driver, it will be nice but by no means a show truck. I have the following options:
-Rust-Oleum, I like the fact I can buy this locally, can use spray cans.
-POR-15
-Rust Bullet
Any experiences anyone can share that might tell me that one is better than the others?
Thanks

 

I have used POR 15 on my frame and it is holding up very well. It really does stop the rust. I just used a wire brush to knock off the loose rust and then sprayed on the Metal Prep solution recommended as the first step. It is a chemical that prepares the metal to give a better paint bond for the POR 15. Then when that was dry I brushed on the POR 15. Some of the frame and suspension has been coated since last Nov and no trace of rust has come back. The black color will fade some but it does not effect the rust stopping ability of the paint. You can paint over the POR 15 like it was a primer if you want to prevent the fading.

 

I buy "Zero Rust". I get it from a local body shop supplier. It comes in a spray can and in quarts/gallons to brush on. I used it under the cab and under the fenders. Works very well, although I don't have a lot of miles on the truck since applying it.

 

I wouldnt use POR15 on anything! It was OK until the formulation changed a few years ago. Now you have to go thru hoops and buy more products to make it adhere in a real world enviroment. Brake fluid and road salt attacks it even then.

Im a big fan of Zerorust, in fact I did a frame with it today.

www.zerorust.com

 

Zero rust spray cans all the way.

 

I don't know about Zero Rust, but POR-15 is a mess to work with. Once it's on your skin you have to wear it off. I use gloves when using it but after working around metal with sharp edges, like the inside of doors, the glove rip. Like 286merc said, you have to buy their products to prime and paint over it, costing additional $$. You can spend a lot of money with this stuff.

As for Rust-Oleum, I wouldn't use it. I painted the frame on my F-2 when I did it and the paint didn't hold up at all. It also takes forever to dry. If I want to paint something I use Val-Spar paint products. In fact I am using their tractor restoration paint to paint my F-4. Like I said, I have used their cheaper paint for years with good results so I am assuming that they higher quality two part tractor restoration paint should hold up pretty well. My F-4 is going to be a driver too so I don't want to spend a small fortune on paint. High quality auto paint, $300 gallon, hardener $50, thinner $50. Valspar tractor paint, $70 for everything. I used it on an 8N tractor two year ago and it still looks good.

 

I had to chuckle when I read your note. I have a Ford 8N also. Nothing better than spending time on a Ford 8N. An old Ford truck and Ford tractor make a good pair. Thanks for your comments.

 

Del,
I've used POR in the past and found it to be a PIA to work with...It did hold-up ok, but one part wasn't perfect and it flaked....I'm gonna use Rustbullet on my F-3 frame next week (hopefully!)....I'll let ya know how it is.

 

I have basically the same question, but another product that I've run across.

First: To clarify, do you have to use POR paint when you use POR 15? That would seem pretty ridiculous.

Second: Zero Rust appears to be a rust preventor, not a stopper or converter. I've got some surface rust on a new project and would rather find a converter, than replace the rusty areas.

Here's what I've looked at:
POR 15, Rust Bullet, Zero Rust, (which we've looked at already in this thread) and "1" STEP (The Rust Killer) from interstateproducts.com, is anybody familiar with this last product?

All of this stuff is pretty expensive--and I don't mind spending the money, for the protection, but I don't have money to throw away on a cheap low quality product (or an expensive low quality product for that matter!).

Thanks for your help and input.

 

The converters are simply a phosphate treatment. If used externally the rust will eventually return. Here in NH where road salt and ocean fogs are a fact of life it happens in about 2 years. Been there done that.

Zero Rust works best when painted over rust, it is NOT a preventer. It is a rust STOPPER by the simple fact that it chemically bonds to iron oxide and smothers it. No air, no rust.

 

how about eastwoods rust encapsulator? I've read head to head tests and eastwoods beat out por15 everytime. The only real way to keep rust from returning is to remove it altogether, but I know this ain't practical all the time.

 

What is the suggested prep for Zero Rust? My supplier was really noncomital about this and not much help other than to say the better prep and priming the better results......

 

ZeroRust doesn't have a prepping solution or anything like that. It is pretty much a one-step process. I just remove as much of the rust and scale as possible, then brush or spray it on.

 

Wow, it's always good to get a lot of feedback...and although I didn't start this thread, thanks for the info.

From what I can tell (with the research I've done), Rust Bullet and Rust Encapsulator seem to be the best out there, little prep work, one step application, as toxic as any other paint-like product you'd be spraying, and seems like they do a better job than the other products (according to the articles and pictures I've seen from tests).

The two haven't gone head to head, yet. Supposedly Rust Bullet is planning a group of head to head tests that will include Rust Encapsulator, but I don't know where they are in the process. In the first batch of tests they did, they out did POR 15 (though not by a lot), along with six or seven other products. They're a sponsor here and the pics are on their website, so just find an ad and click (they'll like that, and so will FTE).

Otherwise, I got some good info by google-ing "POR 15 vs Rust Bullet".

 

I used Zero Rust on a convertible two years ago, on the floorpans and in the engine bay around the battery. Since then the floorpans under the rear seat have had two soakings with ATF fluid when the convertible top pump failed, and then again later when a power cylinder failed. Both times the ATF fluid just puddled on the floor pans for a month or so until I could get at it to clean it up. In both cases the ATF just wiped right off the Zero Rust and left it looking as good as the day I painted it. The battery tray area gets the usual bit of water and acid mixture on it from cleaning the battery top, and it still looks like new.

I chose Zero Rust for the following reasons:
1) It's very tough and dries very hard, sealing out moisture and air (and ATF fluid, apparently).
2) It does not contain isocyanates and is no more dangerous than regular rattle can paint.
3) It can be sprayed (rattle can or gun) or even brushed on
4) Prep can be anything from just a wire brushing to full blown sanding/blasting/metal etch etc. and it still hangs on realy well.
5) You can use regular lacquer thinner to clean up
6) It's more affordable, easier to work with, and less dangerous than POR-15
7) It comes in a bunch of decent primer-like colors

Prior to painting the Zero Rust, I brushed/sanded as much of the rust off as possible, then "converted" what was left with a phosphate based rust converter from Home Depot. This turned the little remaining bits of rust black. I cleaned off the residue from the phosphate converter with water, dried it really well, gave the area a wipedown with a degreaser solution, let that dry, then rattle can sprayed the Zero Rust. Two years later there is absolutely no sign of further rust in either place.

I'm not a dealer, just a satisfied user.