Hey Gang, New here, I have a 03 Ranger 4x4, with automatic transmission. It has about 49,000 miles on it. Today I noticed the airbag warning light blink than come on and stay on. I called the dealer and they want about $85.00 to hook it up to their test equipment. Anyone one else have this happen? What can I expect cost wise for dealer repair? Any factory recalls? Any quick fixes? Thanks

 

Here are the codes for Air Bag faults. When frist started the dash light will blink the two digit code before it comes on permently.

Continuous (blinks no code)
RCM Disconnected or Inoperative, Loss of Battery Feed, or Loss of
Signal Ground

15
Incorrect Vehicle ID

15
Driver Air Bag Circuit Shorted To
Ground

15
Driver Air Bag Circuit Shorted To
Battery Or Ignition

16
Passenger Air Bag Circuit Shorted
To Ground

16
Passenger Air Bag Circuit Shorted
To Battery Or Ignition

17
Air Bag Tone Warning Indicator
Circuit Shorted to Ground or Open

17
Driver Pretensioner Circuit
Shorted To Battery Or Ignition

17
Driver Pretensioner Circuit
Shorted To Ground

18
Passenger Pretensioner Circuit
Shorted To Battery Or Ignition

18
Driver Pretensioner Circuit
Shorted To Ground

18
Air Bag Tone Warning Indicator
Circuit Short to Battery or
Ignition

19
RCM Crash Data Memory Full

21
RCM Bracket Ground Resistance
High

24
RCM Is Faulted

25
Passenger Air Bag Deactivation
(PAD) Switch Fault

27
Passenger Air Bag Deactivation
(PAD) Warning Lamp Inoperative

27
Passenger Air Bag Deactivation
(PAD) Warning Lamp Shorted to
Battery

32
Driver Air Bag Circuit Resistance
High

33
Passenger Air Bag Circuit
Resistance High

34
Driver Air Bag Circuit Resistance
Low

35
Passenger Air Bag Circuit
Resistance Low

46
Driver Pretensioner Circuit
Resistance High

46
Driver Pretensioner Circuit
Resistance Low

47
Passenger Pretensioner Circuit
Resistance High

47
Passenger Pretensioner Circuit
Resistance Low

Hope this helps, when you get the code we can tell you more
Dave

 

Thanks, The light flashes twice than seven times. I guess that means 27?

 

Yes, there is a Light(led) that should turn on and off with the key switch, It "burns out" and will result in the 27 code. You can get a new one from for for about $40.00. If you have a friend that can solder and has some experence in working with electronics he can replace the LED for about a $1.00 from Radio Hut...
Dave

 

Thanks, I can solder. But how do I get to the bulb?

 

The passenger side Airbag switch and light in along the bottom center of the of the dash. Now you need to understand that Airbags can go off and HURT you. You need to disconnect the battery before starting to fooling with them. There is a connector on the back of the display and I think a couple of screws holding the assenbly to the dash. Look it over and you should not have any trouble getting to it. If you feel uncomfortiable working with it DON'T.
Dave
Dave

 

Dave, Thank you very much for the info. Now at least I can go to the dealership and let them know, I know what is wrong. Hopefully they won't charge me an arm and a leg to just replace the bulb/led. If they try to give me the shaft, they will never see another penny from me. This is one of the most informative forums I have been to. Thanks again!!!!

 

Glad to help.
Dave

 

In regards to the Air Bag fault codes...I drive a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4L V6 with a manual transmission and approximately 80,000 miles on it.

Recently the airbag light began flashing on it. Based on the post above, I determined it blinked a 46 code...Driver Pretensioner Circuit Resistance High... Driver Pretensioner Circuit Resistance Low. Upon inspecting my truck, it appears that someone had backed into my front bumper bending the license plate and slightly denting the bumper behind it.

I have a few questions regarding this information:
1. Would the damage to my bumper be enough to set off the 46 code?
2. Do these codes apply to my vehicle? or just the O3 model that this thread was originally directed towards?
3. If these codes work for my vehicle, can anyone give me a ballpark figure as to how much this repair will cost?

 

1. no, the airbags would have gone off iif it was.
2. yes
3. Check the connections under the drivers side seat. Sometimes they get loose and can cause the fault.
Cost will be high (hundereds) if they have to replace (unlikely) the pretensioner.

good luck
Dave

 

Dave you're a genius!...ran out to my truck as soon as I got your post...wiggled the wires a little, and off went the light. I just got done replacing a windshield and putting new tires on it and wasn't looking forward to spending any more money on it for a while. Thanks to you now I don't have to.

Thanks for your help.
Jarod

 

I am wrong more then I am correct, but I am glad you got it working.
Dave

 

Here's a copy of the post I put in the RPS site a while back:

I had an airbag fault 2-7, which means that the little light that indicates that the passenger airbag is off wasn't working. I did a search and found that the only way Ford helps you with this is to sell you a new passenger airbag disable module for several hundred dollars. I didn't like that answer, so I decided to see if I could replace the light. Turns out you can, and its not too hard:

0. Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait at least 1 minute.
1. Remove the ashtray.
2. Pop off the cover over the passenger airbag light. It just snaps on with a couple of prongs.
3. Remove the 4 screws that hold in the ashtray track. The assembly has 2 tabs that align it - they may hold it in place somewhat, so gently pry it away from the dash. This will bring the passenger airbag disable (PAD) box with it.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector to the PAD.
5. Remove 2 screws from the bottom of the PAD, and remove it from the ashtray track.
6. Gently pry the cover off the PAD. Inside, you will find a circuit card that is connected to the electrical connector. This circuit card has a little light soldered to it. Lift it out of the PAD for access.
7. I bought a new light at Radio Shack, their number 272-334, which is a 12VDC, 65mA green light with solder leads. Unsolder the old, dead light and solder in the new light. (Test it to make sure it works before you reassemble.)
8. Assembly is the reverse of the above.

The system now works fine, and the only difference from stock is that the light I found is green instead of yellow. (Its possible that at a larger Radio Shack store they would have a yellow one, but the store I was at only had this one.)

I think if it fails again, I'll probably just solder in a resister, because I don't really care about the light, and the system just needs to detect current flowing in that circuit for it to pass the startup diagnostic.

 

rubydist, excellent post. All I would add is the LED has a "flat side" and it marks the polarity of the led and it must be matched up to the one taken out. This would make a good write up for the Technical post as its a common problem.
Dave

 

Dave,
The oem light and the new light are both incandescent bulbs (that's why they don't last very long...) so there is no issue with polarity.