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new guy, some general questions....

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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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new guy, some general questions....

remember I'm new so no flaming....I come from the Jeep world, I Just sold my 1999 Jeep Cherokee with 8", 35's, full width axles and many other goodies....I recently bought a 2002 F-250 V10 XLT, I like It alot so far. I had a few questions though that I was having trouble finding when searching.

#1. My girlfriends been around horses her whole life and so shes seen people towing their trailers, she seems to think that the Overdrive button should be OFF while towing, is there any fact to this?

#2. I know alot about suspensions and tires for Jeeps but not the Ford, so Im curious what size tire can I fit without any Lift? I'v seen people say 315's (
35's) but then I see that they say the rub the leaf springs at full turn. Well my truck has the off-road package and It seems as though theres enough room to clear 35's. I found a good deal locally on 315/75/17 BFG AT's (Hummer H2 take-offs) and I was planning on geting some 17" wheels, what width and backspacing should I get so they stick out a bit but still dont rub or touch on full turn?

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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Welcome to FTE!

#1. My girlfriends been around horses her whole life and so shes seen people towing their trailers, she seems to think that the Overdrive button should be OFF while towing, is there any fact to this?
The short answer is "YES" and "No". You can leave the Overdrive ON usually, but when you hit a hill or some kind of grade, then it is usually better to turn it off. Especially if you notice it shifting in and out all the time. That creates a lot of heat...and will kill that 4R100 tranny. If you are on the flats, then yes use the Overdrive. While city pulling, I prefer just to leave it off. Helps keep the temps down.

Also, do not worry about that V10. It LOVES the upper RPM range at 3500-4500 and can work there all day long.

#2. I know alot about suspensions and tires for Jeeps but not the Ford, so Im curious what size tire can I fit without any Lift? I'v seen people say 315's (35's) but then I see that they say the rub the leaf springs at full turn. Well my truck has the off-road package and It seems as though theres enough room to clear 35's. I found a good deal locally on 315/75/17 BFG AT's (Hummer H2 take-offs) and I was planning on geting some 17" wheels, what width and backspacing should I get so they stick out a bit but still dont rub or touch on full turn?
I know that the 285's will fit no problems, but not a 35" tire. It will rub in the front. Yes it is due to the front leaf springs. I do not think the 315's will work on a stock OEM front-end. You can always get a 2" or 2.5" level kit from dr. They are just about the best for the FORD.

Come down to the V10 forum...and visit when you have a chance. We have a bunch of fun guys down there...

biz

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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Thanks I hope this is where these questions belong...I saw the V10 Heavy Duty Modular forum but I was under the Impression that was for engine and performance tech only...


Thanks for the Info on the Lift, but what brand is DR?

Also another question I think I already know the answer to but outa curiosity.... Stacks are for Diesel trucks only correct? I coulda swore I saw an older 8.1 Chevy dually gas motor with stacks last night at the local truck pull. I like the look, not that It matters I already ordered a MBRP dual exhaust two days ago, cant wait to get It on.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 01:57 PM
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I have 305/70-r16 on my stock v10 and got a little rubbing the plastc at full lock on the driver side. But a 35 would rub like mad and I have the offraod package as well.Some guys on here have done it but I don't like the way the wheel well looks when it is stuffed. I have a 6 inch and am only going to run 35 maybe 36's at the most.
Just because I want a little bit of room for articulation.

Check my gallery for pics
 
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackV10
Thanks I hope this is where these questions belong...I saw the V10 Heavy Duty Modular forum but I was under the Impression that was for engine and performance tech only...
Yup...you are in the right area. However, the V10 forum does talk from time to time on other issues with the SD. But it is best to just talk V10 there. Like with your MBRP exhaust...etc.

Thanks for the Info on the Lift, but what brand is DR?
Donahoe Racing. Here is the link: http://www.donahoeracing.com/index.php

Also another question I think I already know the answer to but outa curiosity.... Stacks are for Diesel trucks only correct? I coulda swore I saw an older 8.1 Chevy dually gas motor with stacks last night at the local truck pull. I like the look, not that It matters I already ordered a MBRP dual exhaust two days ago, cant wait to get It on.
Not certain about the stacks, but I have seen them on gasers too. Mostly on the older trucks...

biz

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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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cool thanks for the link....so another question..


Body Lifts? good or bad....never had to deal with them on my Cherokee since It was a Unibody frame....I saw a 3" on ebay...Im sure that would clear the 35's but what are the negative effects to doing a body Lift?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackV10
cool thanks for the link....so another question..


Body Lifts? good or bad....never had to deal with them on my Cherokee since It was a Unibody frame....I saw a 3" on ebay...Im sure that would clear the 35's but what are the negative effects to doing a body Lift?
Welcome to FTE. I too am a Jeep guy, so welcome aboard. The body lift's are OK, it's really a matter of opinion if you like the way it looks. I don't really care for them myself, especially a 3". It makes the truck feel very top heavy, and have alot of body roll. Plus if it doesn't include things like bumper spacer's or "Lift Lips", you'll have those horrible gaps between the frame and body. That said, I did put a 1" on my 97 Wrangler but that was just to give me a little more room to "stuff" my 33's while off roading. But that's the biggest I would even consider. So anyway, check out some other trucks and you'll see what I mean about the gaps. If your looking for a cheap way to allow clearance for 35's, check out the DR leveling kit that biz turned you on to or also Rough Country and other's make 2"-2.5" leveling kit's that are reasonably priced. Good luck man, and I hope to see your down in the V10 forum's!!

Dave
 
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Old Jul 26, 2006 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackV10
Body Lifts? good or bad....never had to deal with them on my Cherokee since It was a Unibody frame....I saw a 3" on ebay...Im sure that would clear the 35's but what are the negative effects to doing a body Lift?
IMHO...I would call a body lift on a SD bad. If the SD was going to be used for towing or carrying a payload (especially the payload).

If the SD is a show truck or grocery getter, then no issues.

biz

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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:15 AM
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thanks for the Info on the body Lifts....mine will definatley be used to tow a 1500lb horse trailer with 2000lbs worth of horse from time to time so I'll go without the body Lift....

I'd like to do 35's and I think I'll be happy with that since I'll have my Jeep to build extreme, but I still want a nice somewhat aggressive look to the truck. Im thinking either a 2.5" leveling kit, or a 4" kit to clear the 35x12.50's..... With either of those size Lifts is there anything that needs to be done to the transfer case or driveshafts?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackV10
thanks for the Info on the body Lifts....mine will definatley be used to tow a 1500lb horse trailer with 2000lbs worth of horse from time to time so I'll go without the body Lift....

I'd like to do 35's and I think I'll be happy with that since I'll have my Jeep to build extreme, but I still want a nice somewhat aggressive look to the truck. Im thinking either a 2.5" leveling kit, or a 4" kit to clear the 35x12.50's..... With either of those size Lifts is there anything that needs to be done to the transfer case or driveshafts?

Nope Transfer case and drive shafts are fine up to a 6" kit. If you have a long bed or a crew cab sometimes the carrier bearing needs to be shimmed. but not on a 2.5" kit. Rarely on a 4' and sometimes on a 6".
 
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 01:04 PM
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I'm thinking about the DR leveling kit for my dually, but won't the rear end sag when you load it up with a goosneck or a ton of crap? Or should one install air bags to compensate?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackV10
thanks for the Info on the body Lifts....mine will definatley be used to tow a 1500lb horse trailer with 2000lbs worth of horse from time to time so I'll go without the body Lift....

I'd like to do 35's and I think I'll be happy with that since I'll have my Jeep to build extreme, but I still want a nice somewhat aggressive look to the truck. Im thinking either a 2.5" leveling kit, or a 4" kit to clear the 35x12.50's..... With either of those size Lifts is there anything that needs to be done to the transfer case or driveshafts?
Do you know what gears you are running? Keep that in mind...since you will be towing...and those 35" tires will be working against you.

If you have 3.73s, then I would pass on the 35" tires...due to your towing needs. Your SD can do it, but it will labor more. If you have the 4.10s or 4.30s, then your SD is better suited to tow. With the 35" tires...better if you have the 4.30s of course.

Here is the gear types and code. The axle type code can be found on the VIN door sticker.

Axle Type
31 — 3.73 non-limited slip, F-250/Excursion
C1 — 3.73 limited slip, F-250/Excursion
32 — 4.10 non-limited slip, F-250
C2 — 4.10 limited slip, F-250/Excursion
33 — 4.30 non-limited slip, F-250
C3 — 4.30 limited slip, F-250/Excursion
Just things to keep in mind...

biz

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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mongo75
I'm thinking about the DR leveling kit for my dually, but won't the rear end sag when you load it up with a goosneck or a ton of crap? Or should one install air bags to compensate?
DR has two leveling kits. One is really not a leveling kit at all for the F350. It is the 2.5" mini spring pack. It will get the F350 within 1" of being level. The 3" shacke lift gets the F350 closer.

The rear will sag the same with or without the level kit. So yes, the rear will be lower than the front depending on the weight of the trailer or payload. It is possible to add an air level kit in the rear to compensate if you do a lot of towing or carrying a heavy payload.

biz

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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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35's

Thought i would add my $0.02 in here since I have experience with the 315 tires. I also run an '02 250 SD. I took it to a local spring shop and had them re-arch and add a leaf all the way around. This actually gave me about 3" (+/-) of lift and allowed 315/75/16 BFG tires to fit the wells just fine. There was "some" rub on VERY sharp turning. Standard driving did not cause any problems, and they loked great. I have since gone back to a 285 due to cost, but the 315's will definitely fit. Also, with the spring job, there was no need to do any tranny/driveline work.

Good luck...
 
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:42 PM
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DAMN! Just got off the DR website, and I love what they got! Now, I hate beating a dead horse, but what the biggest tire can I put on a stock 16x7? And since I got a dually, how wide of a spacer should I need? And if the wife lets me buy a nice lift kit, I know she won't let me put out for new gears, so I guess I'm lucky to have 4.10s, but at the same time I don't want to lose too much towing capacity. Any advice taken! Semper Fi.
 
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