When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Its me again, I found the inertia switch, thanx guys, however, I am still not getting anything. I checked the spark plugs, and I am not getting any fire through them. The plug I pulled is rusty. I checked the coil and everything is still connected. I was wondering if the rusty plugs could be the problem to why it won't start now. I am also thinking that a couple of relays are gone bad, too. I am not for sure what relays they are as the person I am doing this work for doesn't have the owner's manual. Any suggestions, please im or post reply, thanks for all your help and ideas!!!
Does the pump zzzzz ufter the starter is off for 2-5 sec? if yes, PIP signal (Prifile ignition pick-up, tacho) is OK! If not, check hall-effect sensor, if PIP is OK, check TFI!
are those a type of relays or what? i moved some fuses around on the driver side fenderwell and that is when the pump started working but I don't know if any of the others are bad or not. They are the square ones in the little block box and it also has a white rectangular relay/fuse with them!!!
Oh boy, I think you need a Haynes manual so you can make sure we are on the same page here. The PIP is the signal sent to the compter and the TFI to let it know what plug to fire and when. The TFI is the module that controls the spark. The coil should have its primary and secondary resistances measured according to the Haynes manual. You need an LED test light, or an ocilloscope to check the PIP for sure, but Pablos suggestion works most of the time, its not foolproof though.
Yes, I know, my way is not foolproof, but it shows a way where to look for a problem....
Check for bright blue spark on coil first.
BTW, ones one man was trying to start old GAZ-53 truck with V8, but there was no spark. All the wires and other parts were OK! The problem was found when he removed cap.... Rotor did not rotate, toothed wheel was bad.... $2 problem! 5 minutes to fix! So there were no PIP signal.
ya, Pablo does this Ford fixing every day for money to eat and live....the rest of us just do it for fun
tech's and mechanics have been developing and using short cut troubleshooting techniques ever since bullwhip bosses and flat rate mech. pay were invented.
Well I just got off of the phone with my mechanic and he told me to take the rotor cap off and see if it rotates. It rotated about 3/4 of a turn and then quit turning. He told me that it is more than likely the timing. I didn't know that if the timing got messed up that it would kill the vehicle while it was running. but i knew i didn't know it all. But anyways, any other help can be helpful and valuable!!!
Thanks!!!
Then the teeth on one of the has broken off, the timing chain has stretched/broke, or the Gear on the bottom of the distributor is broken/teeth broken off.
Grab the rotor and see if you can turn it by hand. If so it's something broke under the Distributor.
Well how about the TFI-IV ignition module ? It's the flat device attached to the distributor right below the cap, When mine went the engine would turn over but it would not start and it would not produce any spark.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.