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I have a '65 f100 w/390 and I've been having problems with starting the last couple mornings. This morning I started the truck w/the choke out about half way and it fired right up. I let it warm up for about 5 min. or so, until the temp guage reached about C. Then I took off and the truck stalled at the corner of my street. No big deal, because this happens sometimes when I don't let it warm up enough. Then I tried to start it again and had no luck. It cranked and cranked, but never fired up. I tried starting it for several minutes, let it sit for a few, tried starting it for a few more, no luck. I had to go to school so I walked home and got a ride. When I got home, I went to the truck and it fired right up (even though I could smell and see all the exhaust from the gas that I'd flooded the carb with while trying to start it.)
What do you think's wrong? I have recently had reason to believe that my carb (Autolite 2100) is worn out and needs a rebuild or replacement because the valves stick all the time. I've tried cleaning it w/Berryman's B12 and it helped a little. Any ideas anyone?
Couple of things! First, in my experience, (50+years), ignition problems cause most hard start/crappy running engines. So I always start there. Assuming you have a solid engine, with good compression, a tight timing chain, good oil pressure and a 180 thermostat. Tune the engine, inspect the plug wires, dist cap and rotor, and replace the plugs. If you still run points consider switching to Pertronix. Check the vacuum and mechanical advance on the distributor. I core all high mile or unknown distributors, stock properly functioning is usually good enough for a decent running engine. If the budget allows replace the cap, rotor and wires with late model 351ci components. Check the tech article on this site about the Ford flat cap and fat wires. After the engine ignition system is functioning at 100%, adjust the idle and air bleed screws. Other things to check are the exhaust heat riser system, is it working, stuck open or shut, or missing? Does the intake at the base of the carburetor get HOT quickly after startup? The exhaust passage in the intake may be clogged and the engine will run crappy and stumble and stall until it warms up (takes a while). The choke, is it working, sticking, slow to open? Warm air supply, do you have one? This is the system of shrouds and tubes that supply warm air from the exhaust manifold system to the incoming air supply. You need all this stuff for smooth running and economical engine performance, especially those living in cold and damp climates. Ford has a hot water system that heats the base of the carburetor on 4v carburetors. I use one of these, a manual choke and an exhaust heat riser. My truck starts, warms up and runns like a top and I don't screw around with lots of tuning. I have over 25K miles on this truck 390 C6 and have not touched the ignition or carburetor settings. I get a solid 12MPG on 87 octane and I run hell out of it. Get the system working correctly and leave it alone.
William in Atlanta
I'll second William's advice, and add the following:
Some 2V carbs come with water jacket heaters as well as some 4Vs, so don't be surprised if you have one.
If you are flooding out, I recommend you put a carb kit in it after cleaning it out before putting out big bucks for a new carb; they can be had for about $15.
If you are flooding easily like that, I see two major culprits:
1. Your choke, including the linkage, vacuum pull-off and releaser, whether manual or automatic.
2. Your power valve, usually in the bottom of the bowl; it comes in the carb kit.
Try fixing these things first on your carb.
Post back and let us know how it works!
could have dirt in the needle valve or varnish from sitting. The best thing to do would be to rebuild the carb. Make sure to clean all of the passages with carb cleaner. Dip it if you have access to do so. Replace the fuel filter too. A good tune-up wouldn't hurt either.