I have a 95 Ranger 3.0 manual 90000 miles. It's been running a little rough lately, and I'm at the point of checking the oxygen sensors (I have another post about the original problem, but wanted a separate one since this is just about o2 sensors).

I have three sensors, two before the catalytic converter and one after. They are four-wire heated sensors. The connector (sensor side) has two white wires and a black and grey wire. The white wires are for power, the black and grey are for voltage from the sensor.

According to Haynes and the post in the technical section here, the sensors are supposed to fluctuate below and above .45v. The sensor after the catalytic converter does this just fine. But both of the sensors before the converter hold steady around .85v, no fluctuation at all. I checked and all the connectors from the PCM are supplying 14.5v power to all three of the sensors.

I bought a new bosch oem sensor from autozone and installed it before the converter. This morning I ran a few errands and left the truck running after I got home to check the voltage. Wouldn't you know it, it shows a steady .87v -- no fluctuation at all.

So what are the chances that a brand new sensor is not working correctly? Do all O2 sensors fluctuate, or only the ones after the catalytic converter? Any ideas? Thanks.

 

.87V= a very rich air/fuel mixture!!!!

I'd pull the codes, or run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a computer trouble code scan & see if it'll tattle on something up stream from the O2 sensors, thats causing the overly fuel rich mixture.

Could be something as simple as a clogged air filter, or dirty MAF sensor or a acting out MAP sensor if your 93 uses a MAP, or maybe a messed up fuel pressure regulator, or throttle postion sensor, or computer coolant temp sensor.

Anyway, pull the computer codes & post ALL that you find, as they could help us make a better guess.

 

How do I know if my O2 sensor may be bad?
If your car has lost several miles per gallon of fuel economy and
the usual tune up steps do not improve it. This *is not* a
pointer to O2 failure, it just brings up the possibility. Vacuum
leaks and ignition problems are common fuel economy destroyers.
As mentioned by others, the on board computer may also set one of
several failure "codes". If the computer has issued a code
pertaining to the O2 sensor, the sensor and it's wiring should
be tested. Usually when the sensor is bad, the engine will show
some loss of power, and will not seem to respond quickly.
What will damage my O2 sensor?
Home or professional auto repairs that have used silicone gasket
sealer that is not specifically labeled "Oxygen sensor safe",
"Sensor safe", or something similar, if used in an area that
is connected to the crankcase. This includes valve covers, oil
pan, or nearly any other gasket or seal that controls engine oil.
Leaded fuel will ruin the O2 sensor in a short time. If a car is
running rich over a long period, the sensor may become plugged up
or even destroyed. Just shorting out the sensor output wire will
not usually hurt the sensor. This simply grounds the output
voltage to zero. Once the wiring is repaired, the circuit
operates normally. Undercoating, antifreeze or oil on the
*outside* surface of the sensor can kill it. See how does an
Oxygen sensor work.
Will testing the O2 sensor hurt it?
Almost always, the answer is no. You must be careful to not
*apply* voltage to the sensor, but measuring it's output voltage
is not harmful. As noted by other posters, a cheap voltmeter
will not be accurate, but will cause no damage. This is *not*
true if you try to measure the resistance of the sensor.
Resistance measurements send voltage into a circuit and check the
amount returning.
How does an O2 sensor work?
An Oxygen sensor is a chemical generator. It is constantly making
a comparison between the Oxygen inside the exhaust manifold and air
outside the engine. If this comparison shows little or no
Oxygen in the exhaust manifold, a voltage is generated. The
output of the sensor is usually between 0 and 1.1 volts. All
spark combustion engines need the proper air fuel ratio to
operate correctly. For gasoline this is 14.7 parts of air to one
part of fuel. When the engine has more fuel than needed, all
available Oxygen is consumed in the cylinder and gasses leaving
through the exhaust contain almost no Oxygen. This sends out a
voltage greater than 0.45 volts. If the engine is running lean,
all fuel is burned, and the extra Oxygen leaves the cylinder and
flows into the exhaust. In this case, the sensor voltage goes
lower than 0.45 volts. Usually the output range seen seen is
0.2 to 0.7 volts.

The sensor does not begin to generate it's full output until it
reaches about 600 degrees F. Prior to this time the sensor is
not conductive. It is as if the circuit between the sensor and
computer is not complete. The mid point is about 0.45 volts.
This is neither rich nor lean. A fully warm O2 sensor *will not
spend any time at 0.45 volts*. In many cars, the computer sends
out a bias voltage of 0.45 through the O2 sensor wire. If the
sensor is not warm, or if the circuit is not complete, the computer
picks up a steady 0.45 volts. Since the computer knows this is
an "illegal" value, it judges the sensor to not be ready. It
remains in open loop operation, and uses all sensors except the
O2 to determine fuel delivery. Any time an engine is operated
in open loop, it runs somewhat rich and makes more exhaust
emissions. This translates into lost power, poor fuel economy
and air pollution.

The O2 sensor is constantly in a state of transition between high
and low voltage. Manfucturers call this crossing of the 0.45
volt mark O2 cross counts. The higher the number of O2 cross
counts, the better the sensor and other parts of the computer
control system are working. It is important to remember that the
O2 sensor is comparing the amount of Oxygen inside and outside
the engine. If the outside of the sensor should become blocked,
or coated with oil, sound insulation, undercoating or antifreeze,
(among other things), this comparison is not possible.
How can I test my O2 sensor?
They can be tested both in the car and out. If you have a high
impedence volt meter, the procedure is fairly simple. It will
help you to have some background on the way the sensor does
it's job. Read how does an O2 sensor work first.
Testing O2 sensors that are installed
The engine must first be fully warm. If you have a defective
thermostat, this test may not be possible due to a minimum
temperature required for closed loop operation. Attach the
positive lead of a high impedence DC voltmeter to the Oxygen
sensor output wire. This wire should remain attached to the
computer. You will have to back probe the connection or use
a jumper wire to get access. The negative lead should be
attached to a good clean ground on the engine block or
accessory bracket. Cheap voltmeters will not give accurate
results because they load down the circuit and absorb the
voltage that they are attempting to measure. A acceptable
value is 1,000,000 ohms/volt or more on the DC voltage.
Most (if not all) digital voltmeters meet this need. Few
(if any) non-powered analog (needle style) voltmeters do.
Check the specs for your meter to find out. Set your meter
to look for 1 volt DC. Many late model cars use a heated
O2 sensor. These have either two or three wires instead of
one. Heated sensors will have 12 volts on one lead, ground
on the other, and the sensor signal on the third. If you have
two or three wires, use a 15 or higher volt scale on the meter
until you know which is the sensor output wire.

When you turn the key on, do not start the engine. You should
see a change in voltage on the meter in most late model cars. If
not, check your connections. Next, check your leads to make sure
you won't wrap up any wires in the belts, etc. then start the
engine. You should run the engine above 2000 rpm for two
minutes to warm the O2 sensor and try to get into closed loop.
Closed loop operation is indicated by the sensor showing several
cross counts per second. It may help to rev the engine between
idle and about 3000 rpm several times. The computer recognizes
the sensor as hot and active once there are several cross counts.

You are looking for voltage to go above and below 0.45 volts.
If you see less than 0.2 and more than 0.7 volts and the value
changes rapidly, you are through, your sensor is good. If not,
is it steady high (> 0.45) near 0.45 or steady low.

Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.

Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in
a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your
negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the
output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue
flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor.
You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds.
If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead
fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a
drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone
fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for
drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open
up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure.
If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to
low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in
mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection
needing faster information than carbureted systems.

ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated,
show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND
pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When
replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test
above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation
skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always
*no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the
test in the first line of this paragraph.

 

That was a great amount of info aquanaut20. I agree with everything you said. But, if I have over 80k on my original sensors, I would fork out the money and replace them. If they pass your tests, but are "lazy", will that still show up? The fresher an o2 sensor is, the better job it will do at fuel metering in closed loop due to the wider swings in voltage. But, if you are on a strict budget, testing would be in order.

 

The O2 sensors are just reporting on whats coming to them & right now they are telling us the air/fuel mixture is too rich, likely imo, maybe because of some up stream problem with something giving the computer bad data, such that it's firing the injectors too long, or a over fuel pressure condition, or dirty/leaky injectors, dirty MAF, or cogged air filter, causing a screw up in the air fuel mixture.

I really doubt it's likely both O2 sensors have layed down on the job at the same time, unless they got a whiff of coolant or some silicone from somewhere.

Look in the "Technical Info" thread atop this forums main page, on how to pull the trouble codes yourself, or run your ride by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost computer scan.

Call around & see if the stores in your area use a scantool that'll hook up to your OBD-1 system, before you go.
In my area, Advance Auto & AutoZone use the Actron CP9145 scantool, that would hook up & read your codes, but who knows whats used in your area.
Anyway you can pull the codes yourself using this forums instructions.

Let us now what you find.

 

OK, I just got back from Auto Zone and there are no codes. I recently changed the TPS (which tested bad but did nothing to help my idle when I installed the new one), and I've also changed the plugs and air filter. On my last tank of gas, I put in an injector cleaner additive. When I changed my air filter I looked up the tube at the MAF and it looks clean as a whistle, but I suppose I can try cleaning it anyway. Any other ideas why the O2 sensors show such a rich mixture?

 

what was the colour of the plugs when you pulled them, this could tell you a whole lot about the engine condition.

possible causes of rich mixture, leaky FPR, leaky injectors. sticky PCV. this is not exhaustive but, considering what you report to have done.... Good luck

 

Well a faulty computer coolant temperature sensor.
If it's fibbing about true engine temperature, the computer can think the engine is still cold & give the injectors a longer "on" pulse, which will cause a rich mixture. So a computer coolant temp sensor check, may be a good idea.

Too cold a thermostat, or a stuck open thermostat, causing the engine to be over cooled. So how does the engines coolant temperature check out????

Dirty leaky injectors, or too much fuel pressure. Do a fuel pressure check & see what it is & if it'll hold for the specified time after the engine is shut down. If it's too high, suspect the fuel pressure regulator. If it won't hold pressure after shut down, suspect leaky injectors.

Clogged cold air intake tube, before the air filter. Critters such as field mice & ground squirrels, like to build nests in there!!!! lol

Dirty or faulty MAF sensor. If it's faulty & sending the computer bad data, the computer will get confused about what to do. Most of the time, if it's dirty, it causes a lean mixture & pinging, but if it's damaged & it's resistance range is out of tolerance & changing too quickly, the computer can get confused & think more air is entering & it must enrich the mixture. So do a MAF resistance. or output signal check to the computer & see if it's within specification.
If you clean it, be sure it's cold & remove the B- battery cable before you begin, so the computers old stored MAF data tables are erased & it can begin relearning & storing new parameters for the cleaned MAF sensor.

Just some thoughts for pondering.

BTW, how did the old spark plugs look for deposits????

Have the O2 sensors ever had the opportunity to get a whiff of silicone or coolant????

 

Have you tried the above?

 

Everyone's help and ideas here are much appreciated. I simply didn't have the time anymore to work on this, and I sold the truck yesterday. Cheers!