amp gauge problem
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Joined: Apr 2006
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amp gauge problem
this is driving me CRAZY!!My amp meter spikes + and or - intermitantly[misspelled i know] at an idle,and the lights flicker.new double ground wires.new alternator and voltage reg.No change.The battery keeps a good charge and it has no other elect. problems. When driving at hwy.speed the needle still flickers but prettymuch stays where it should be.any Idas?? sorry wrong area
Last edited by mr.james; Jul 23, 2006 at 09:04 AM. Reason: forgot more info
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
If everything is new and grounded well I'd suspect a loose connection somewhere. The flickering lights and ammeter spikes would either be bad grounds or bad connections. Sometimes paint can interfere with connections and grounds. If the alternator and regulator are rebuilt and not new they can be bad too. 
Vern
Vern
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 412
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From: Fallon, Nevada
The Ammeter (correct terminology and spelling) on old Fords is a loop style. It works magnetically, so no loose connection to it is possible. It is connected at the starter solenoid and then to the fuse panel so those are two places to look. Otherwise, it is the gauge itself. You can test it by installing your test ammeter (you can put any number of ammeters in series) in series with its lead at the starter solenoid.
Since your lights flicker, however, that tells us you either have a loose connection or you have a defective charging system. Since you have a new regulator and one which is probably electronic, only a problem with the field (rotor or brushes) being intermittent from a bad connection or from failure is likely. The rest of the alternator circuit is a three phase winding and diodes. So aside from a lot of places to look for connections, it is not likely that you have a bad part. The fuse block and starter solenoid are the most likely culprits, IMO.
Since your lights flicker, however, that tells us you either have a loose connection or you have a defective charging system. Since you have a new regulator and one which is probably electronic, only a problem with the field (rotor or brushes) being intermittent from a bad connection or from failure is likely. The rest of the alternator circuit is a three phase winding and diodes. So aside from a lot of places to look for connections, it is not likely that you have a bad part. The fuse block and starter solenoid are the most likely culprits, IMO.
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