Hey mississauga...
Neutral Saftey Switch??????
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Neutral Saftey Switch??????
My "new" 1991 F-150 5.8L E4OD will NOT start without jumping the new
solenoid on the inner fender. As stupid as this seems I cannot get this truck
to start correctly. The neutral saftey switch is new also...and I do not see any
provisions for adjustments on it.
This is driving me absolutely NUTZ!!!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,605
Likes: 5,629
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
unbolt the ignition switch under the column. using a small screwdriver, move the slider. if the truck starts, the ignition switch actuator cam in the top of the column is broken. it is a cheap part. only about $12 at the dealer. but a pain in the butt to put in, taking between 3 to 8 hours, depending on experience, patience, and mechanical aptitude.. and a shop or dealer usually get between $300 to $500 to do it.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Also try this. Remove the small wire from the starter solenoid (red/lt blue) Have someone turn the key to the start position and you should have 12 volts .If not there is a problem between the ignition switch and the solenoid. Check for a problem where the connectors are sitting on the inner fender on the drivers side.I had corrosion in those connectors giving me a no start condition.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Test at the small wire at the starter solenoid which is usually on the inner fender near the battery if its the same as my 88. Turn the ignition start position. Remove the small wire from the solenoid and make contact with one end of your tester(test light) to this wire and the other end to ground. If working it should light up. What you are doing is seeing if 12 volts is getting to the starter solenoid to help narrow down where your problem is.
Last edited by mississauga; Jul 23, 2006 at 07:16 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Yes you will test from the wire you want to be hot, to ground. You can probably test it without removing the wire.
Never heard of a fender mounted starter solenoid. I always get to crawl underneath.
Never heard of a fender mounted starter solenoid. I always get to crawl underneath.
Trending Topics
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
My 88 has the fender mounted starter solenoid . I thought it was that way on a lot of the f-150 s. Not sure what year they stopped doing it.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
OK...still no start!
Originally Posted by mississauga
Also try this. Remove the small wire from the starter solenoid (red/lt blue) Have someone turn the key to the start position and you should have 12 volts .If not there is a problem between the ignition switch and the solenoid. Check for a problem where the connectors are sitting on the inner fender on the drivers side.I had corrosion in those connectors giving me a no start condition.
Still nothing...tomorrow I am going underneath to look at the starter wiring just
to look for....I have no idea what...I stumped.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Still not startin'.........
Originally Posted by tjc transport
unbolt the ignition switch under the column. using a small screwdriver, move the slider. if the truck starts, the ignition switch actuator cam in the top of the column is broken. it is a cheap part. only about $12 at the dealer. but a pain in the butt to put in, taking between 3 to 8 hours, depending on experience, patience, and mechanical aptitude.. and a shop or dealer usually get between $300 to $500 to do it.
I cannot find "much" info on replacing this part in either of my aftermarket repair books but I will start again in the morning!
Thanx for everyones help so far!!!
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
I tested mine to double check what I said to you to make sure it works. I attatched the alligator clip thats on the one end of my test light to the small wire we have been talking about and the other to the negative post of the battery and when I turned the key on to start it lights up.If you do not have power(12 colts) then I would think the problem is between the ignition switch and the solenoid. It should be the same colour wire at the ignition switch . You can check for power at the switch the same way only find a good ground near the ignition switch that you can use.When the lower actuator broke on my steering column the key had a real loose feel to it and it didnt feel at all normal.
Last edited by mississauga; Jul 25, 2006 at 09:01 PM.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Your 91 is a little different from my 88.I have no experience with the 91 but the concept is the same. Because you have an e4od it looks like there is another sensor but I am not 100% sure , that detects the position of the gear shift ,which may cause your problem if that were the case. It would help if you could get a wiring diagram that is specific to your year as the generic that I have doesnt provde enough information for your particular vehicle.If it helps think of a big loop. Power goes from ignition switch thru the neutral start safety switch and any other interlocks unique to your vehicle, then off to your starter solenoid. Some where there is a break in the flow. Start from the power source and systematicly work your way thru testing for power at every connector and device in the loop.Resist the temptation to start jumping around.