Problems with new gauges!
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From: Derby Country
Problems with new gauges!
I just changed my old autometer's out for some of the new cobalt series. The problem is now my EGT gauge starts out at 100* when my old one started at 0*. Also my new boost gauge doesn't show anything at all when cruising or anything unless I stomp the pedal to the floor. Even then it won't do anything for a second then it rockets up to about 26psi. I'm just wondering if I got some screwed up gauges or is this something with the new ones that I don't know about. My others are about 5 yrs old. I know that just passing a car my egt's shot up to almost 1250 and they never went that high before unless I was pulling my boat. My boost always had a smooth sweep from 0 to about 24 too. I need some advice here.
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From: CT
Well I can tell you about my resent experience with autometers Z series gauges. My boost and trans gauges work fine, I only see about 5 lbs around town and the same at about 70 mph on the highway. My "1st" pyrometer didnt work at all, just sat at about 650 deg even with no power to the gauge. My 2nd pyrometer worked fine, but the probe that was sent with the gauge was a grounded type probe not desinged for that gauge, as soon as the probe came in contact with anything metal the gauge would go from where it was reading counter clockwise past zero and sit at 7 oclock. Now my 2nd gauge sits at about 75 deg when the truck is off and cold. Sorry for the rant. There has been some people getting bad gauges from autometer, so I think thats your problem.
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From: Derby Country
So are these pyro's reading actual temp after 75 or 100*? It's not a big deal if they pick up the actual reading. I'm just wondering if mine's 100* high or if it's accurate. 5psi boost, doesn't that seem kinda low? I know my old gauge would steadily climb up to about 24 or 25 anytime I punched it a bit. Now it's WOT and it shoots straight to 27 or 28. Does your boost climb slow or does it jump up to a high psi really quick?
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From: CT
I just finished typing an e-mail trying to get my pyro replaced. I WILL NOT chance a bad reading from a gauge. Why did we spend a nice chunk of money on something that "kinda" works. As far as my boost numbers, if I hit it the boost will shoot right up to 25+. Depending on how much I give it the boost reads where it should when it should. Where do you have the boost tube hooked up to for a reading?
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From: Idaho
My boost also reads around 5psi cruising in town (unloaded). Once loaded it will rise above that. I don't believe there is anything wrong with that. When loaded and I punch it, it will climb quickly. I would think the pyro should read accurate from zero all the way up. It should start at zero and then rise upon startup and then continue to rise from there as you work it.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
My gauge reads about 400 engine off no key. When I turn the key it goes to zero and then starts to climb as soon as I start the truck. It will get anywhere from 2-300 during warmup and stay there until I drive it. During cool down, it goes down to about 400 pretty quick after I put it in park. I usually wait about 45 secs or so to get down to 300 or less then shut it off.
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From: Derby Country
Hey thanks forthe quick response Tenn01. My gauge shows about the same. I called Autometer and they told me that since these gauges are 12v they could land anywhere during shut down and stay there til they get 12v again. They also told me that the gauge will show ambient air temp so if I want it to start at 0* I better park in a freezer. As long at it does it's self test at start up and goes to 0 for a second it'd fine.
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From: SE Texas
I guess I didn't go far enough on the posts as I just put another gauge post. My boost does not go up that quickly but the round town readings when and if it is working correctly seem about the same. You are right though, with what I spent, I don't want gauges that kind of work most of the time.
Wes
Wes
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From: Middle Tennessee
There are a lot of factors affecting your boost gauge readings. Overall engine/turbo condition and boot connections are highest on the list. Any boost leak will cause erratic readings. Now reference port location is next on the list. Good connections are essential.
Having said all of that, my boost gauge is quite linear. It never just jumps to max boost but it can hit the 20s rather quickly. Seat time will tell you if what you are seeing is what actually going on. I would check all of my connections and then send the gauge back if it was not working satisfactorily. Especially since your old ones seemed to work fine. These things aren't cheap and I know how you feel.
Having said all of that, my boost gauge is quite linear. It never just jumps to max boost but it can hit the 20s rather quickly. Seat time will tell you if what you are seeing is what actually going on. I would check all of my connections and then send the gauge back if it was not working satisfactorily. Especially since your old ones seemed to work fine. These things aren't cheap and I know how you feel.
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From: Derby Country
I think it has something to do with the soot all over my firewall. It much be acting really weird cause I'm losing boost. The up pipes are leaking so it's just a guess at how much I'm losing. That would explain the reason the boost shows 0 then goes straight to 25. It's probably taking tons of boost to push it that high. Up pipes are now my priority.
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From: Derby Country
I'm not really sure but I don't recall seeing any gaskets on the pipes last time I had them off. You think that's what's causing the weird boost readings? I've been driving it around trying to get it to show something but no luck. Just 0 then straight to 25. No steady movement at all. I kinda figured that the low boost pressure is escaping out the leak but the higher pressure is getting past the leak. I think that makes sense anyways.