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ok i did some more checking and while cranking over there is no fluxualtion on the (-) side of the coil and there is no more then 12 volts getting to the cap,and on the way into the modual the power sourse i have for it goes from 12 volts in run to 10 during cranking wuts up with this, on the plug goin to all the wires to the dist. there is about 6volts to each spade on the plug. and where does the dang red wire to the coil come from i dont see any red wire anywhere in the modual plugs
Goth, if you get to your wits end and reach for the 357mag, take a breather, and say uncle. I can line you up with with a rebuilt dizzy, a GM HEI module and coil with a wirring harness and mounting bracket for under 150 bucks. If you have the switched 12v hot we talked about, it will be a slam dunk install. Oregon Ignition Supply 503.931.5978 Ask for Buck and say Denny set ya.
Goth. I had a pile of notes like you have. What I finally did because time is money, I called Oregon Ignition Supply at 503.931.5978 and Buck made a complete system with wiring harness that was a slam dunk to install. Rebuilt dizzy, HEI module and coil with mounting brackets. All you need is the switched hot 12V we talked about, you did find this, right? And a vacuum line to the dizzy and go. Nice clean stuff for under 150 bucks.
lol,its all good,and that switched 12v thats with that resistenc wire right? god i wish i would have known about that kit now, instead of laying down 200 bucks for the set up i now am pissed off at,but how do u order it how long does it take to get in? thx man
ok heres my problem ,i layed down alot of money for that whole set up and i cant take half the stuff back,and im to dang broke,i just need to know one thing,ok,there is no blinking while cranking there seems to be constant power to the coil,i dont know where the red wire on the coil comes fromwthanx ya'll
Last edited by GOTH_TRUCKER; Jul 24, 2006 at 01:21 PM.
Please note that DS2 systems use a ballast resistor or resistor wires to power the coil, whereas TFI-IV systems don't. So if you put a DS2 system on a truck that has a TFI-IV originally mounted, YOU MUST ADD A BALLAST RESISTOR! It goes between the ignition power and the plus side of the coil.
Otherwise, you will burn up the module in seconds to hours, depending upon the quality of the box.
GOTH: you may have already burned up the module, if you have left the key on for any appreciable length of time, and forgot to add a ballast resistor. Especially if you bought the module from Advance, Autozone, Carquest, etc.....
Goth. The phone # is listed above. It's a small operation, no big box store. Buck is the man to talk to and he will make it just for your truck, how ever long the wiring harness you want. What ever ignition curve you want, ect. He knows his stuff and you will like his work. My guess is he will supply a finished product to your door in 7 days. Give him a call or email ois@peak.org
ok,so can i just throw that resistence wire in in line with the red wire goin to the coil,and also that red wire brings power from the box right? and i got the modul from napa,is it good box?thx
Get a Haynes Manual and give a look at the wiring setion. All trucks come with resistor cable included in original wiring harnes, there is just a jumper, very close to ignition switch; to be cut if the Duraspark system is used OR leave connected if TFI system is used
Doesn't matter if it is a Duraspark coil or a TFI coil; you still need the resistor to the coil if the truck originally had a TFI system. Most people that do a TFI to Duraspark conversion leave the TFI coil in place because it is a much better coild to use. I had just assumed you left it in place.