most shops especially dealer Ford shop techs will not touch and refuse to work on or service these oiled baby diaper cloth air filters.
I would not run one in any areas of the country that experience dirt and dust particals, Midwest farming, S Cal. blowing desert dust, deserts of the West, construction areas, etc

I've seen enough used oil analysis and air filter tests to tell me to stay away from the oiled air filters. Too much silica and other particles get thru. Not for 99% of the motoring public out there. Takes perfect cleaning technique and oiling technique or filter material is destroyed or MAF is turned into oil soaked non functioning blob.
No commericial OTH diesel big rig truckers run them, you will NOT see them on hvy duty diesel construction dirt movers
Come on guys, we left the horse hair oil bath cleaners 40 years ago. It's time to move on.

Air box, paper filter, MAF, air tube and throttle body on Aero 4L will move more than max. air required by engine even at max. WOT horsepower. These are medium rpm engines, 4,800 PCM cutoff. PCM algorithm for op. temp cruise limits air/fuel mix to a stoichmetric ratio of 14.7:1

Buy a quality brand name paper filter, make sure it fits and seals tightly in box and replace every 20k>30k miles or when starting to load up with dirt. The manufacturers have spent millions of $$ and millions of hours testing and refining engines.

If you want a race car, run like NASCAR, no filter, just a screen to keep the big chunks out.

 

It is interesting, but so many people equate flow to power, when in reality, engines are induction devices by default, and sometimes what is condusive to flow is contrary to good induction.

One report on a K&N filter claimed it would allow 950 cfm airflow.
The stock filter claimed 820 cfm.
this engine was a 3.0L Duratec
the maximum amount of air that engine can theoretically move is 291.34545 CFM.
Anyone care to explain how the K&N could give you any power when the stock filter is more than adequate?

 

The world of airfilters isn't much different than those scam vortex air turbulence gizmo's. People are always looking for something to add to their cars so the market will rise to the occasion...Although air filters are prob more legit than most HP claims aren't even close. Let the buyer beware...



Dick

 

Agree. I have tested the vortex generators, and they might do something performance wise on an otherwise poorly atomized system, and maybe in the form of grooves on the backside of the valves, anywhere else they are garbage. Same with almost any other product. Now you can sometimes get some benefits from better oils. I use true full synthetics (Anyone know if Pennzoil's new synthetic is a true synthetic?) such and Ams-Oil, Mobil 1, Royal Purple or Redline. Any other product claiming to be synthetic is nothing more than highly refined motor oil. It is only slightly better at resisting thermal breakdown that conventional oil. I use the higher grade synthetic, because I can easily put 3,000 - 5,000 miles a month on my vehicles, and I need the to go several months between oil changes. So far it has worked well, with the oil looking slightly better at 15,000 miles that most conventional oil looks at 5,000.

I also use synthetic transmission fluid to protect the transmissions from thermal break. Combined with smart driving habits, it does seem to provide better smoother shifting and improved economy, but I use it just for protection. Don't count on any economy or power benefits from synthetic, since most of the factors that reduce economy are found in tuning and driving habits, and not oil.

The best you can do for economy is to make sure everything is well maintained and running correctly.