"Simple fact is, its my money, and I can do as I like to make myself happy."

Amen brother!

 

I use the fumoto with the nipple, and a small hose. It saves a step as I just empty the oil into the old 5qt jug.

 

I guess you assumed I have not owned a high performance motor. You assumed wrong. I have built three 5.0's in fox body mustangs. Always made the first oil change at 3,000 miles.

Of course, it's your money and you can choose to waste how ever you like. If it makes you feel better than that's great. However, it does and will do nothing for your engine.

Also, you should wait until you have done at least two oil changes or at about 10,000 miles to switch to synthetic. I agree with you on the Mobil 1. good stuff.

 

<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=bodyText xmlns="">Myth: </TD><TD class=bodyText xmlns="">You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1. </TD></TR><TR><TD class=bodyText xmlns="">Reality:


</TD><TD class=bodyText xmlns="">You can start using Mobil 1® in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in: </TD></TR><TR><TD class=bodyText xmlns=""></TD><TD class=bodyText xmlns="">

• Aston Martin
• Bentley Amage and Bentley GT
• Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, XLR, XLR-V, SRX and STS and STS-V
• Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
• Chevrolet SSR
• Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
• Chrysler 300C SRT-8 and Crossfire SRT-6
• Cobalt SS
• Dodge Ram SRT-10
• Dodge Charger SRT-8, Magnum, and Viper
• Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
• Mercedes-Benz AMG vehicles
• Mercedes SLR
• Mitsubishi EVO III
• Pontiac GTO
• All Porsche vehicles
• Saturn Red Line
• Viper SRT-10

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.



info from http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ics/Myths.aspx



Have you ever seen the stuff they clean the block out with? The acids, gasket material, and the general state of a foundry. The acids and everything else is worth it to me to change oil in these motors, if nothing else to flush what I can out and get good oil in the system.In building High Perf motors, you would never put dirt or anything in the block would you? If you knew there was a chance of anything being in there, would not you flush it?



I live 500 feet from a guy that builds nascar motors. he starts them up on mobil1 syn, dynos them for 2 hours to seat stuff, and changes the oil. He also worked in the GM powertrain facility where they build cam shafts and other roatating parts. I think he knows his stuff and I trust him, more than what I read on a forum.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Ditto that.

 

Every tech I talked to including a master BMW and Mercedes Tech say to wait. But, if I can get Mobil 1 in sooner than maybe I will. I love that stuff.


I also like the Castrol regular oils if not using synthetic.

 

Very informative post WHITECRYSTAL1.

 

Not my post. I just agree with it.

 

You say the 5.4 is NOT a high performance motor, true..

You mention performance marine applications.

Your marine manual says change at 5 hours. The F-150 manual says change at 3000-5000 depending on how it is driven.

So, what's your point?

 

Have you ever walked up to a guy with a speed boat and talked to him. I mean a real speed boat guy, not the average guy with a 30 foot baja. They are fanatics. They know thier equpment in and out, and take care of what they own. With that said, when you invest 30-40K into a single engine upgrade, you take care of it. So my point there was that high performance motors recomend a short first engine oil change. Helk, My VW Jetta cuts the first and second oil change interval in half. So why should you not on a normal motor?

Why does not Ford recomend that.LOL.. Look at all the people out there who drive cars that have no clue on how to maintain them, nor do they have an interest in learning. All they care is that it runs, and the maintence costs are low. Asking Joe Blow to do an early oil change is a laughing matter.

Simple fact is, that if you tour a plant where motors, parts, or cars are built, you would think about cleaning some of this stuff out. Besides the fact that I wanted to switch to a full syn oil that I like, I know that anything left over from cleaning out the casting sand, or anything else that got in the motor has been flushed. This is really a simple prcess that has been around for a long time, and I question why some people here seem to resist it.

If you agree with me, great, if not, dont. Oh yeah, this is the internet..LOL

 

Just asking....

Why do you wait for 5 hours for the change? With the reasoning you use, why don't you change the oil at 2.5 hours in the "high end" boats?? It seems you are using 1/2 intervals. Why not apply that to both?

 

Has anyone read any recent studies on breakin procedures for these motors? I know for the higher end bikes and quite a few of the engine builders have torn down motors that have been broken in the traditional way(driven easy etc) and torn down motors that have been broken in under much higher loads(high throttle or on dynos etc). The results seem to indicate that a harder break in seats the rings much better. Much of this is attributed to the vastly improved machining processes of today.

How well is this motor built and what(if anything) has been found out about the breakin processes for it?

 

The boat engine manufacturers are alreading cutting your first oil change interval to 1/4 of the time between changes. Mercury racing recomends a 20 hour change interval. Cutting it to 2.5 would be less than a half day on the water, and as long as your not racing, as the manual states no WOT runs, ease the boat up on a plane, ect, ect. there is no need to cut that short. If you did not follow that, I would cut it short.

Yellow Jacket, I have seen a ton of motors taken apart at various stages that were fairly new from racing, and i doubt that if you break them in hard, or normal it will make much difference on the motor, as long as you dont do full throttle runs right from the start. The issue you run into breaking these motors in hard is the rest of the drive train that is working itself together. Your rear end of todays vehicles polishes itself together in the first 500 miles, so hard driving will create a lot of heat back there, and degrade the life if the gears. If it gets too hot, they can chip and create a lot of shavings. Thats why the manual tells you to stay under 55 for the first 500 miles and dont tow! IMHO, todays engines dont need anything to "seat" the rings, it will all come together in due time, and the better its taken care of when new, the longer it will last without trouble!

 

Hey guys and gals-- I've been using regular Castrol GTX on my 84 Toyota 22RE engine since I bought it new in 84. I've been religious about changing oil every 3000-3500 miles. You scoff...

I have 206K miles on the thing now, compression is still good, and I'm not burning more than 1/4~1/2qt of oil between changes. Never touched synthetics once.

That's good enough for me since the engine is in better shape than the rest of the car now. I'm slowly losing pieces of my car on the freeway these days; the rest of the body is falling apart. Not sure what good it would have been if I've been using synthetics at 2x the $$ all these years unless it was required by Toyota.

Similar story on 2 other high mileage cars I've owned from new.

Of course, none of my cars' engines were exactly high performance, nor did I ever 'abuse' them. Most of us aren't redlining our truck engines like race boats all the time either :-)

Based on my personal experience, I can probably expect the same longevity from my truck's engine without need for anything special other than regular oil changes. More so since my V8 is essentially idling at freeway speeds compared to my 4-bangers...

 

I take it you dont tow with your truck...............

The most stress car engines get is turning the AC on...

If your truck is your "Car", then your theory is good, but when towing, I want the extra protection from heat that synthetics provide.

But, the basis to a long running motor is taking care of it like you are!