Alternator Help
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 2
From: Conway Arkansas
Alternator Help
Hello 
Im trying to put a GM alternator on my 66 Ford w/ a 390.
I had an old GM alternator laying around and it wouldn't fit.
The battery post hit the block. I rotated the case on the alternator and now where the case comes out in the back for the rotor.. It hits the block.
I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what alternator I need from a GM so it'll fit. I want something with an internal voltage regulator, so a Ford alternator won't work, unless they came out with one in the new vehicles that i don't know about
Any help would be appreciated.
Im trying to put a GM alternator on my 66 Ford w/ a 390.
I had an old GM alternator laying around and it wouldn't fit.
The battery post hit the block. I rotated the case on the alternator and now where the case comes out in the back for the rotor.. It hits the block.
I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what alternator I need from a GM so it'll fit. I want something with an internal voltage regulator, so a Ford alternator won't work, unless they came out with one in the new vehicles that i don't know about
Any help would be appreciated.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Alternator Help
Andy, Try this!Installation instructions for a Delco 85 amp Alternator on a 66 F100 FE 352
MOTIVATION: The first and for me the most obvious question I had to answer before starting this project was "Why"? For me the answer is simple, this project is in keeping with my philosophy of making my driven daily truck technologically new without sacrificing practical originality. You noticed I said practical originality, I am not a purist and I believe this "original" business is best applied to historical and museum quality restorations. I on the other hand enjoy my old truck so much that I literally drive it every day. So for me, installing a technologically advanced one wire 85 amp charging system was an easy decision.
INSTRUCTIONS: What follows is a step by step installation process along with parts and tool requirements. Ford used two mount locations for alternators and generators on FE engines, one at cylinder head level, the other about 8 inches lower. I chose to use the lower location. Firstly the large 85 amp alternator didn't fit in the upper location (it is too long), and the upper location is to close to heat generating sources (against the head and above the exhaust manifold). The lower location is cooler. Delco alternators run a little hot anyway so I wanted to install it where it would be as cool as possible. Lastly, the lower location looks cleaner and provides a less cluttered appearance. The smaller 45 amp Delco alternator will fit easily on the upper location. The wiring connections are the same.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The pivoting mounting bolt for the Ford Alternator is 7/18 inches in diameter, the Delco is 1/2 inch. This necessitates drilling out the alternator mounting bolt hole to accept the larger 7/18 inch bolt. I performed this operation by putting the alternator in a vice and carefully running a 7/18 inch bit through the pivot bolt hole.
PARTS:
85 Amp Delco Alternator purchased without core at Napa for $91.00
42 inch fan belt purchased at Napa for $6.95
Delco GM alternator connector plug purchased at Napa for $6.89
Some red 10 gauge primary wire
Some green 18 gauge wire
GM Battery cable with extra 10 gage wire installed
Heat shrink
Aluminum alternator pivot bolt spacer with a 7/16 inch hole. The original steel spacer and some flat washers will also work
Miscellaneous solder less electrical connectors, wire ties and flexible wire cover
Lower mounting bracket from a 66 Galaxy with a 390
Late sixties/early seventies F100's with a 390 or 360 motor are also a good source for these brackets
TOOLS;
A small hand grinder to work on the engine block cast flashing and to grind a little off the alternator adjusting arm for clearance at the vibration damper.
Wire cutter.
Wire crimper.
3/8 drive socket set
REMOVE:
Place a piece of cardboard between the fan and radiator to protect the radiator from loose parts and wrenches. Pull the battery, positive battery cable, alternator, alternator to regulator wiring harness and the voltage regulator. Near the regulator is a connector with a 18 gage green wire with brown stripe paired with a yellow16 gage wire. The green/brown wire will connect to the alternator and operates the ALT light in the instrument cluster. I cut the Ford plug off and install a Weather Pack Connector on the green/brown wire. The yellow wire operates the horn and it is hot with the ignition on.
Loosen and remove accessory drive belts. Remove the fan and water pump pulley. Take off all the original alternator mount brackets and clean the area you will be working in. Now is a good time to grind off any cast flashing from the engine block near the timing chain cover and on the corner of the block below the exhaust manifold. Doing this will provide a little extra movement of the alternator when you install the belt and it makes things neater. Run a tap in threaded holes and use a little air or WD 40 to clean any debris out of these holes.
MECHANICAL INSTALL:
The mounting bracket, alternator, pivot bolt, spacer and the adjusting arm. The adjusting arm may require some grinding to provide clearance between it and the vibration damper. Use a bolt with metric thread to fasten the adjusting arm to the alternator and just for good measure put a nut on the end where it threads through the alternator. Trial fit everything, tighten the mounting bolts finger tight until you are sure everything fits nicely without binding. The alternator drive belt must ride straight over the alternator pulley, the water pump pulley and the vibration damper pulley. Use wire ties and a flexible wire cover for the wires and harness you built.
WIRING DIAGRAM:
Install a red 10 gauge wire with a crimp on ring connector from the battery post terminal on the alternator to the positive post on the battery. I used a new red GM Positive battery cable with an extra attached 10 gage wire. A 10 gage wire from the battery post terminal on the alternator to the positive battery cable side of the starter relay will also work. It's just that the GM battery cable has this extra wire and makes for a neater installation. I shortened the GM battery cable and soldered on a new end connector. Get a metric nut to attach the ring connector to the battery post on the alternator. I think next time I'll just run a 10 gage wire from the alternator battery post over to the starter relay.
The Delco GM alternator connector is keyed to fit and will only plug into the alternator one way (the right way). It has two 18 gage leads, a white one, with solder less crimp connector installed and a red lead about three inches long with a ring connector. The red wire with ring connector connects to the battery post on the alternator, (same post as the 10 gage wire running to the positive battery post). The other wire (mine is white), connects to the ALT light. From the white lead on the alternator plug in connector, run a 18 gage wire under the battery box, up and across the radiator core support and crimp connect it to the 18 gage green with brown stripe alternator charging lamp indicator wire from the bulkhead connector. This circuit operates the alternator charging lamp indicator. The alternator will work fine with out the charging lamp connected. I prefer to connect this circuit and use an ALT light. The green wire with brown stripe is paired with an 18 gage yellow wire that connects to the horn relay.
TEST: Turn on the key, the ALT light should come on. Start the engine, the ALT light goes out. Measure alternator voltage output, across the battery posts. The reading should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts with the engine running at idle. The same reading should be 12 volts with the engine off.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
Trail Rider, for advice and the wiring schematic.
Sparky, for lots of really good electrical information.
Use a keyed plug in connector for terminal one and two.
Yellow lead is not used.
Red lead (BATT) connects to the positive battery post.
White connects to the ALT light (green with brown stripe) on 66 F100s.
MOTIVATION: The first and for me the most obvious question I had to answer before starting this project was "Why"? For me the answer is simple, this project is in keeping with my philosophy of making my driven daily truck technologically new without sacrificing practical originality. You noticed I said practical originality, I am not a purist and I believe this "original" business is best applied to historical and museum quality restorations. I on the other hand enjoy my old truck so much that I literally drive it every day. So for me, installing a technologically advanced one wire 85 amp charging system was an easy decision.
INSTRUCTIONS: What follows is a step by step installation process along with parts and tool requirements. Ford used two mount locations for alternators and generators on FE engines, one at cylinder head level, the other about 8 inches lower. I chose to use the lower location. Firstly the large 85 amp alternator didn't fit in the upper location (it is too long), and the upper location is to close to heat generating sources (against the head and above the exhaust manifold). The lower location is cooler. Delco alternators run a little hot anyway so I wanted to install it where it would be as cool as possible. Lastly, the lower location looks cleaner and provides a less cluttered appearance. The smaller 45 amp Delco alternator will fit easily on the upper location. The wiring connections are the same.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The pivoting mounting bolt for the Ford Alternator is 7/18 inches in diameter, the Delco is 1/2 inch. This necessitates drilling out the alternator mounting bolt hole to accept the larger 7/18 inch bolt. I performed this operation by putting the alternator in a vice and carefully running a 7/18 inch bit through the pivot bolt hole.
PARTS:
85 Amp Delco Alternator purchased without core at Napa for $91.00
42 inch fan belt purchased at Napa for $6.95
Delco GM alternator connector plug purchased at Napa for $6.89
Some red 10 gauge primary wire
Some green 18 gauge wire
GM Battery cable with extra 10 gage wire installed
Heat shrink
Aluminum alternator pivot bolt spacer with a 7/16 inch hole. The original steel spacer and some flat washers will also work
Miscellaneous solder less electrical connectors, wire ties and flexible wire cover
Lower mounting bracket from a 66 Galaxy with a 390
Late sixties/early seventies F100's with a 390 or 360 motor are also a good source for these brackets
TOOLS;
A small hand grinder to work on the engine block cast flashing and to grind a little off the alternator adjusting arm for clearance at the vibration damper.
Wire cutter.
Wire crimper.
3/8 drive socket set
REMOVE:
Place a piece of cardboard between the fan and radiator to protect the radiator from loose parts and wrenches. Pull the battery, positive battery cable, alternator, alternator to regulator wiring harness and the voltage regulator. Near the regulator is a connector with a 18 gage green wire with brown stripe paired with a yellow16 gage wire. The green/brown wire will connect to the alternator and operates the ALT light in the instrument cluster. I cut the Ford plug off and install a Weather Pack Connector on the green/brown wire. The yellow wire operates the horn and it is hot with the ignition on.
Loosen and remove accessory drive belts. Remove the fan and water pump pulley. Take off all the original alternator mount brackets and clean the area you will be working in. Now is a good time to grind off any cast flashing from the engine block near the timing chain cover and on the corner of the block below the exhaust manifold. Doing this will provide a little extra movement of the alternator when you install the belt and it makes things neater. Run a tap in threaded holes and use a little air or WD 40 to clean any debris out of these holes.
MECHANICAL INSTALL:
The mounting bracket, alternator, pivot bolt, spacer and the adjusting arm. The adjusting arm may require some grinding to provide clearance between it and the vibration damper. Use a bolt with metric thread to fasten the adjusting arm to the alternator and just for good measure put a nut on the end where it threads through the alternator. Trial fit everything, tighten the mounting bolts finger tight until you are sure everything fits nicely without binding. The alternator drive belt must ride straight over the alternator pulley, the water pump pulley and the vibration damper pulley. Use wire ties and a flexible wire cover for the wires and harness you built.
WIRING DIAGRAM:
Install a red 10 gauge wire with a crimp on ring connector from the battery post terminal on the alternator to the positive post on the battery. I used a new red GM Positive battery cable with an extra attached 10 gage wire. A 10 gage wire from the battery post terminal on the alternator to the positive battery cable side of the starter relay will also work. It's just that the GM battery cable has this extra wire and makes for a neater installation. I shortened the GM battery cable and soldered on a new end connector. Get a metric nut to attach the ring connector to the battery post on the alternator. I think next time I'll just run a 10 gage wire from the alternator battery post over to the starter relay.
The Delco GM alternator connector is keyed to fit and will only plug into the alternator one way (the right way). It has two 18 gage leads, a white one, with solder less crimp connector installed and a red lead about three inches long with a ring connector. The red wire with ring connector connects to the battery post on the alternator, (same post as the 10 gage wire running to the positive battery post). The other wire (mine is white), connects to the ALT light. From the white lead on the alternator plug in connector, run a 18 gage wire under the battery box, up and across the radiator core support and crimp connect it to the 18 gage green with brown stripe alternator charging lamp indicator wire from the bulkhead connector. This circuit operates the alternator charging lamp indicator. The alternator will work fine with out the charging lamp connected. I prefer to connect this circuit and use an ALT light. The green wire with brown stripe is paired with an 18 gage yellow wire that connects to the horn relay.
TEST: Turn on the key, the ALT light should come on. Start the engine, the ALT light goes out. Measure alternator voltage output, across the battery posts. The reading should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts with the engine running at idle. The same reading should be 12 volts with the engine off.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:
Trail Rider, for advice and the wiring schematic.
Sparky, for lots of really good electrical information.
Use a keyed plug in connector for terminal one and two.
Yellow lead is not used.
Red lead (BATT) connects to the positive battery post.
White connects to the ALT light (green with brown stripe) on 66 F100s.
