I have a 93 F250 with 7.3 Turbo and five speed. I have an issue with the clutch. It seems to not disengage all the way. It is very hard to get into gear when stopped and you have to pull hard to get it out of gear. I have read all the posts on here about the clutch. The clutch engages immediately off the floor and is not disengaging all the way. Is there a logical step by step process to trouble shoot this? What is the best bet, then the next? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Jimmy A
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How do you know it isn't disengaging all the way?

If it is just because it is not shifting, the shifter forks could be worn out.
Also, DO NOT shift without using the clutch. If you think the clutch isnt disenguaging all the way, don't drive it. Same thing happened to me and I had to get the tranny rebuilt after about 3 weeks of driving like that.

 

I'll look at the bushing on the end of the Master Cylinder Rod first...I hope it is that and not something more expensive.

 

On the idi truck, you have a few things to check. As you mentioned the master cyl bushing can be worn out. Also have someone push the pedal a keep an eye on the firewall. The idi truck has a tendancy to gt substantial flex in the firewall. Ford sells a bracket kit for a few bucks to stiffen the wall back up. The las thing is the clutch and dmfw replacement. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Thanks Tom. There is no firewall flex, but I did find an issue with the peddle system under dash. The end of the rod from the master cylinder does not seem to have much play, BUT the "crossmember" for lack of a better term is sloppy in its bracket. The peddle goes up and connects to this round crossarm which extends over to the rod from MC, then an arm comes off that and connects to the rod from MC. The play is nearist the rod where the crossarm or bar goes through the bracket mounted to the firewall. It is on the end that has the large nut on it. (I don't think the other side had one.) I need to take a closer look at it to see how I can correct this. I'm not sure if it has some bushing there where it goes through the mounting bracket, or if I can tighten the nut on the end to prevent this movement. This might be just enough to prevent the MC rod from getting full movement....hoping so anyway.

 

Went thru all this on my 93' F250. Follow the link attached for some of the discussion regarding the bracket that support the clutch pedal assembly:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...53#post3724753

It seems the 93' was notorious for clutch related problems, poor bleeding, and cracking of the pedal support bracket.

Seb....

 

Thanks Seb,

I had read that already. One question is: is there any kind of bushing in the bracket where the loop supports the clutch pedal shaft? It does not appear the bracket is moving, but rather the play is in the hole in the bracket supporting the shaft, nearest to the MC rod. The shaft moves directly away from the firewall and looks like the hole or loop in the bracket is "wallowed out" (technical term)

Since you have had this asembly out of the truck, is it better to try to rebuild it or replace it?


Jim

 

My loop was cracked thru which caused the shaft to move away from the firewall. As you can probalby see it does not take much movement to get to the point were the pedal is on the floor and the clutch will not longer dis-engage.

You will need to remove the bracket with the clutch pedal assembly and dis-assemble it on a shop bench. Once you got the shaft out, you will see the crack in the loop behind the brass (could be plastic) bushing. The loop usually opens up.

I decided to "uprgrade" my old bracket. I had my uncle oxy-acet weld a flat-washer around the loop to re-inforce it. The bracket also had lots of cracks in it so we chased them until they were welded out. The bracket is made of some cheap steel which is somewhat difficult to weld to start with. Unless you got somebody that knows how to weld it would probably be best to get a new bracket from Ford.

To remove the bracket, clutch pedal, shaft assembly you will have to separte the steering column at the U-Joint and push the lower shaft toward the steering box. (slides on the steering shaft spline). Once you have the bracket unbolted from the fire wall it takes a bit of twisting and turning to get it out from under the dash. It will come out.

 

I'm going to pull the bracket I guess. I bought the bushing kit for 14.00 ...all plastic...just hope the bracket itself is not cracked...

Jim

 

Good luck, hopefully you are not 6'6" and 250lbs like me. It makes working under the dash not the most pleasant thing on a day when it is 100 deg F out and humid.

Seb....