More cooling system trouble...
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
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More cooling system trouble...
I've had my '86 6.9IDI dually crewcab since November and finally got around to changing the coolant since on a 100 degree day cruising at 65mph w/ the A/C on it started to overheat. The old coolant looked like watered down iced tea. I did the prestone flush through the heater hose, put in coolant and NAPACool to the top of the radiator, and ran the engine to circulate and top off the system. But the thermostat never opened. I put in a new thermostat, freed the vapor bleed ball from the hard crud holding it and tried again. Still no circulation, I had it to 2500rpm w/ the A/C full blast until the temp gauge about 2/3 the way over and still no circulation. I understand that the radiator is probably full of sludge, and it shows some seepage opposite the top hose inlet. I can't afford a new radiator now. I would like to just get on the road, get it hot, hope the thermostat opens and I can put in the other 4 gallons of water to dilute the 4 gals of coolant. But will I risk destroying the engine? And, If I run an acid flush through my system could it worsen any weak spots in the radiator?
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 392
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From: NC
when you say there is no circulation do you mean the upper hose is not getting hot, or are you looking in the rad cap opening, at least in my truck i dont see circulation in the cap since the water flows top to bottom in a diesel, not left to right like in a gasser. adding a coolent filter will catch all the crap
do you have a mechanical temp gauge?
do you have a mechanical temp gauge?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 162
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From: sisters or.
it can help to take the heater hoses off at the firewall , then you can fill the coolant to the top.then try it. your block and heads should fill with more coolant.. this helped when i had the same problem. also those stock gauges aren't to accurate good luck
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Freshman User
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Thanks fpr the advice. Ya know I went and unhooked both heater hoses at the firewall and still didn't get anymore coolant in. I did drive it most of the day and it ran hot uphill and w/ the A/C going. As long as I didn't push it it let me run the heater at 'vent' w/ the slide control at 'cool' and stayed in range. My Chilton manual says it holds 31 qts of coolant but I have it topped off w/ only 17 qts. I figure I'll let this mystery rest until I can put a new radiator in.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Québec
I always wondered how much fluid there was, you say the book says 31 quarts,00000000.
.000000
.0..........0
......
I allways wonder how mine would hold, My radiator has no cap, no kiding, just a pressure cap on the side reservoir, when I unscrew that cap, there is pressure in there. I do not know what type or rad I have and I want to change the fluid. I will probably have to remove the upper rad hose to fill it up. It is quite a big rad.
There is all type or Diesel fluid on the market these days, what is the best type to prevent cavitation?
.000000
.0..........0
......
I allways wonder how mine would hold, My radiator has no cap, no kiding, just a pressure cap on the side reservoir, when I unscrew that cap, there is pressure in there. I do not know what type or rad I have and I want to change the fluid. I will probably have to remove the upper rad hose to fill it up. It is quite a big rad.
There is all type or Diesel fluid on the market these days, what is the best type to prevent cavitation?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 933
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From: Québec
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Everywhere, USA
I don't know Jack about these trucks, except my 7.3 IDI Turbo Rocks!!
But 31 quarts equals 7.75 gallons which seems like a lot to me. on the other hand 17 quarts equals 4.25 gallons which sounds more like right. Believe it or not the only "owner guide" ford saw fit to give me, only list coolant capacities for gassers. They list 19.8 quarts for a 7.5L gasser, I can't see the 7.3L being almost twice that. All the guys here know way more than I do. I am sure Dave Sponaugle (a Moderator here) Can tell you exactly what the capacities are for your truck.
But 31 quarts equals 7.75 gallons which seems like a lot to me. on the other hand 17 quarts equals 4.25 gallons which sounds more like right. Believe it or not the only "owner guide" ford saw fit to give me, only list coolant capacities for gassers. They list 19.8 quarts for a 7.5L gasser, I can't see the 7.3L being almost twice that. All the guys here know way more than I do. I am sure Dave Sponaugle (a Moderator here) Can tell you exactly what the capacities are for your truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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grnburg--go and get some real cooling system flush--the good stuff--that you drain the rad a little--and pour pint of the stuff in--then go drive the truck--now before you do this--get the bottom hose loosened from the neck--put back on--and go drive--when come back--put large pan under that hose--and unscrew the hose clamp---taking extreme care--cause when that hose comes off--i know what some of you are thinking--but--with pressure in the system--the crud--and other unlovelys come flying out of there--wont have as much trouble getting the junk out the system--when it stops--and cools a mite--put the hose back on--pour another can of the flush in there--fill with water--and do the same process over again--everything in the system--including in the rad--should be loose now--flush it totally out with water--then refill the system with the proper level of coolant for freeze protection--should make a world of difference--also--go to ford dealer--and get some fw-15 sca additive in there--6.9 wasnt known for cavitation--but it dont cost much---