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Recently I purchased and installed, through my diesel mechanic, an Evolution Programmer for my 1997 Ford 7.3 Turbo Diesel. Additionally, I removed the problematic stock "pinch pipe" turbo exhaust and replaced it with an aftermarket Bully Dog exhaust pipe. I also installed a K&N air intake system and removed the muffler from the exhaust system.
My intent was to add greater hp and torque that I feel is necessary to achieve better highway speeds with my 1997 F 350 4X4 Crew Cab 7.3 Turbo Diesel with my Caribou Camper (4,000 lbs.) and my North River Jet boat (6,500 lbs.) attached.
Admittedly, I haven't changed and run the truck at the highest program setting yet, however I have traveled at both the "Tow & Race" levels and must truthfully say that other than a noticeable re-scheduling of the transmission shifting, I didn't feel the hp and torque ability had changed at all. Most hills were still a challenge and I wasn't able to go any faster than I did when it was stock.
Any thoughts?
Jim
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If only things made as much power as was advertised... Apparently the injectors in our trucks are a major bottleneck when trying to make big power. Mine has some of the common mods and is stronger/faster, but not like I would hope. I have learned that keeping the RPMs up keep EGTs down when towing, especially uphill. And higher up in the RPM range - there is plenty of power. My truck has 4.10 gears in it, making towing easier but slower.
If you need to feel like your parts and $$$ did something then get a full set of gauges and monitor the EGT, trans temp, boost, and MPG. Then undo each modification and monitor the truck in stock configuration...
I have read on here that our mufflers are a straight thru type. So is there any benefit to removing the muffler and running a straight pipe in its place? Eventually I will be going with a full 4" from the downpipe back with a new 3" downpipe.
I have read on here that our mufflers are a straight thru type. So is there any benefit to removing the muffler and running a straight pipe in its place? Eventually I will be going with a full 4" from the downpipe back with a new 3" downpipe.
you might see a minor drop in egt's by cutting out muffler, but liek you said it straight through and not much of a restriction. i run stock 3.5" exhaust on my 2wd tow truck with stock muffler and dont have any problems with egt's. 3"dp and 4" back will sound great and lower egt's, if its too noisey you can get a 4" straight through muffler to put inline.
seriously
you have the exhaust.
make a diy intake.
get some gauges and
throw a set of stage 1's in your truck. you will have more power than you need then.
trust me!!!!
give bdp a call. i use em and love my injectors. best upgrade you can buy hands down!!!!!!!
seriously
you have the exhaust.
make a diy intake.
get some gauges and
throw a set of stage 1's in your truck. you will have more power than you need then.
trust me!!!!
give bdp a call. i use em and love my injectors. best upgrade you can buy hands down!!!!!!!
I'll second that one - I have Stage 1's from Bean's and running at the next-to-the-lowest setting (1 click above the stock setting, which is suppose to be +50 hp), I never want for more power - even though there's lots more to be had, whether hauling my 10 ft slide-in camper or pulling my 23 foot (5000 lb) boat. You won't regret a dollar of it!
Curious about the Stage-1's. How much will they add to the performance, assuming I already have all the other common mods.
How much time for a typical install?
I think I spent about 3-4 hours on it - but was going slow to ensure that I didn't do anything stupid. The Stage 1's by themselves won't make a big difference, but combining them with a chip will really blow some life into it. You need the chip to be able to take advantage of the increased injection volume and optimized injection timing. I installed a 6-position chip at the same time I installed the Stage 1's, and I'm still amazed at the power the engine is capable of making. When pulling my boat or hauling my camper, I use the first setting above "stock", which is supposed to be +50 hp and +100 ft-lbs of torque, and have never seen it shift out of OD on the highway (it's not all flat out here in OK, either). I don't run it much above that setting, because I have a stock automatic transmission. I highly recommend going ahead with the Stage 1 upgrade and a chip, especially if you need injector work anyway.
[QUOTE=1969fordguy] I have learned that keeping the RPMs up keep EGTs down when towing, especially uphill. And higher up in the RPM range - there is plenty of power. My truck has 4.10 gears in it, making towing easier but slower.
I've got 97 c/c 4wd E4OD with 4:10. I tow a 27' trailer aprox 12000 lbs and have trouble on hills. When you said keep RPM's up, how high are you talking? Do you manually down shift your automatic trans? I haven't got gages yet, so not sure what EGT's I might be hitting. I have Tymar 3-4 dp with 4 kittyless exhaust, open element intake, and am using Superchips programmer.