Anyone know the ford part number for the vehicle speed sensor? I can't seem to find one online can find the part but nobody will tell me the part number.

Thanks again for any info...

 

Darn I just had my Dads speed sensor out on the weekend. (92 and onward use the combined speed/abs sensor in the rear axle)

It was dirt cheap ($20 from the Ford Dealer)

If I find the old one I will send you the part number on it.

Note check for metal savings that have built up on the tip of the speed sensor magnet. It might be a good idea to change your differential oil if there is lots of metal present.

 

Hey thanks for the info. I found one at my local dealer for $22.95. I was going to replace the tach sensor too just to make sure. But I'm having trouble finding one. Although the tach seems to work just fine. For now I'm going to just replace the VSS and see if the code 29 goes away. Still thinking I'm going to end up pulling the tranny and replacing the torque converter. I wonder if I should have the tranny rebuild while I'm at it or if I can just get away with replacing the torque converter myself. I'm almost to the point now where I'm tempted to order one of those "bullet proof" tranny's like a monster box or see if Brians Transmission ships transmissions. I just want this thing to be reliable. Only problem is then the transmission would be worth more than the truck...lol

 

I went through the exact same thought process and eventually decided to do the torque converter job myself. My tranny only had 30,000 miles on it so I just could not convince myself to spent big bucks on rebuilding with that low of a milage. I much rather took the chance on fixing what I knew was the problem (Torque Converter)

If I was going to have a tranny shop do the job I would have gone full hog but that was getting a bit expensive for me.

I knew my torque converter lock was bad and I had seen some metal savings on my pan magnet twice during oil changes so I figured if I just do the torque converter myself I could do the job for less that 20% of what it would cost me if I go full hog.

Everything turned out good in the end and my base tranny was sound.

I now have all new sensors (VSS, Tach, FIPL, MLPS, as well as a new solenoid body, new front seal and lock seal and a new heavy duty torque converter) All this cost me about $US1,300 in parts.

I pulled the tranny and transfer case together in my driveway with a 500lb scissor jack I picked up at Princes Auto for $120.

To get a bit better access under the truck I lifted the front axle about 6 inches off the ground.

Some of the tools I used:

- 500 lb scissor jack
- two 6 Ton Jack Stands
- 1/2" Impact Gun, hose, compressor
- two 1/2" drive extensions to get at the top tranny bolts.
- 1/2" drive universal joint
- Misc. 1/2" drive sockets
- Misc. metric and imperial wrenches.
- Misc. metric and imperial 3/8" drive sockets.
- Large pan to drain the tranny oil.
Nothing special really.

With the tranny and torque converter empty you will need about 16 liters (18 quarts) of Mercon tranny fluid.

The combined tranny and transfer case weight is just under 500 lbs.

Best of luck whatever you decide....


Seb....

 

Hey thanks for the info. Still debating on which way to go. I'm going to put the VSS in tonight and see if I can make it act up again. If so I'm going to have to give some serious thought as to whether I want to tackle the job myself or just pay someone else to do it. About how long do you figure it took you to do the whole job? Once I get the transmission out how hard is it to get to the front pump seal? Or do I even want to go there? I'll take all the information you want to share. I'm in a similar situation as you, this tranny only has about 40k on it. I guess I could just drain the tranny pan and see what I find. That might tell me how bad it is. What brand torque converter did you buy? Do you like it and would you buy another one? Thanks again for the information.

 

Once I had the front end jacked up it took me about 4-5 hours to:
- Remove the drive shafts. (1hr)
- Disconnect all the electrical, speedo, tranny and 4x4 linkanges and move out of the way (20 min)
- Jack up under the tranny (5 min)
- Remove the X-member with impact gun (30 min)
- Remove the starter (1 hr) ( one bolt with poor access in the back)
- Remove the bottom cover plate (15 min)
- Unbolt the four Torque Converter nuts
- Unbolt the six bolts holding the tranny to the engine with impact gun (15min)
- Remove the tranny dip-stick. (5 min)
- Lower the tranny and transfercase (15 min)
- Pull off the old torque converter (1 min)
- Install the new pump seal and lock seal ring (split ring on the shaft) (20 min)
- Slide on the new Torque Converter (20 min) (Note, it is a bit tricky to get the new converter to slide on. Make sure you get it to slide on all the way. You will have to rotate it to get it to slide on all the way. Very important. To confirm you got it on all the way use a straight edge and measure the depth to the face of the converter and compare that to the depth on the motor to the drive plate. If the converter is not slid on all the way the tranny won't bolt up.

Re-installation is basically in reverse order..... (takes a little longer, have patience)

Yes drain your oil and look for metal. If you got lots it spells trouble in regards to the shape of the rest of the tranny. I just had a pile of fine metal about a 1/4" high around my magnet in the oil pan.

Find a good aftermarket torque converter supplier and get your options. My choices were $300, $500, and $900. The $900 option was only for very heavy towing such as tow trucks. I went with the $500 option which is working beautifully.

Pump seal is not hard to change. Pry the old one out carefully with a screwdriver. Don't damage the aluminium housing.

Good luck if you are going to attempt yourself.

Seb....

 

I replaced the vss last night, wow, about the easiest thing I've done on that truck. About 10 mins I was done. Took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work great. I drove it about everyway you can drive a truck. Eased into it and let it climb gradually, then got right after it. No slips, no sputters it just went. One other thing I noticed that may or may not be related. (I've read and my experience leads me to believe its true) I always had a very soft brake pedal. Since I installed the new sensor my brake pedal works a lot better. I read that the vss also works with the abs system. Don't know but replacing that sensor seemed to help. So right now I'm crossing my fingers and hoping everything will be okay. I need to take it for a long steady drive to find out for sure. Thanks for all the information and I'm going to hang onto it just in case. It seems to be a constant battle catching up on the tlc that the previous owner seemed to over look. At least I have the records for oil changes and such so I'm pretty sure he took good care of the engine. Just didn't pay much attention to the rest of the components. As I said in another post the exhaust has a leak in it actually every flanged joint I think leaks. When I was under it last night I looked at the muffler and it said ford on the bottom of it. Now that muffler I am guessing is 12 years old and has 138k miles on it.. I guess it wouldn't hurt to change it along with the other exhaust system. I'm going to drive the truck a week or two and make sure the transmission is going to be okay. Then I think I'll put the money I was going to spend on the tranny and hopefully put it into ats's larger turbo housing with elbow and thinking of buying the kit that includes a full 3" exhaust.

Thanks again for all the information and I'll let you know how it works out.

 

Not bad, maybe you should work for nascar....lol Actually seems like you made pretty good time concidering. Did you do it alone or did you have some help?

 

I did it myself. Went a lot faster and easier than I had thought.

Note, you are right the ABS sensor and speed sensor are the same sensor starting on the F250 in 1992 when Ford went to the all electronic speedo and odometer.

Hope things work out with your tranny.

PS. if you ever get tired of your ABS brake system the easiest way to go back to regular brake operation (before they invented ABS) is to disconnect the black box in your glove compartment. The early ABS system were at best questionable in regards to their benefit. I remember towing my fifth wheel once and just as I started to approach an intersection that was a little bumpy the ABS came on and I ended up going thru the intersection as I could not stop.

Don't know about the ABS systems they put on the new trucks, but the early ones were definetely not that great.