So I'm rebuilding the rear brakes. I've got new adjusters new springs, new cylinders, and new shoes. When I back the new adjusters all the way in so they are at there shortest point, I can still barely get the drums over the shoes. Before I go any further, which shoe goes towards the front of the truck? The long one or the short one. Also, I took the drums in to be turned and the machine shop couldn't find and specs on them and wouldn't turn them for me. Does anyone know what the drums from a '58 F100 can be turned to? Once the drums are on, I can't really turn the wheels by hand. Does anyone have any suggestions for me. I've thought about trying to find some adjusters that are several thousandths shorter but that would mean sorting through a bunch until I find one. Have you guys found and adjusters that will work? Thanks, John

 

Hey John, I cannot tell you about 58 brakes, but I hope that you have only taken one apart at a time. If this is so, go look at the other side for guidance. If not, I would recommend a manual that can be purchased from our sponsor on the site. Good luck, Jag

 

John, long shoe goes to the rear, short to the front, .060 over is the max, if your drums are 11 inch then you can go to 11.060..try opening the bleeder valves, you may have pressure holding the shoes out a little causing them to fit tight or drag..Jim

 

Be sure the shoes are on top the slider bumps on the backing plate, not hung on the outside, Pull the shoe assemblies towards you until they clear the backing plates then ease them back in place (did you wipe a little white grease on the slider bumps?). Did you compare the new shoes to the old ones to be sure they matched in curve, shape and width? Is the emergency brake cable fully released? Sure the shoes aren't upside down or fronts instead of rears? Did you try pushing the shoes together to push the wheel cylinder in as far as possible? Is there a residual valve in the line?

 

I'm not sure what the slider bumps are. No I didn't use any grease. Yes the shoes are the same. I disconnected the emergency cable thinking it might be that. I'm sure they are the right set for the rear. Yes I pushed the cylinders in as far as I could. No residual valve. Thanks for the suggestions though. John

 

slider bumps are the small raised pads on the backing plates the edge of the shoes sit on. They are pretty easy to spot as the only shiny spots on the backing plate. When I do drum brakes, I put small amount of white grease on those spots, in the forks on the wheel cylinder and adjuster, on the threads of the adjuster, in the cup of the adjuster and between the E brake arm and shoe around the pivot pin (as well as the pivot of the self adjuster arm if the brakes are self adjusting). Peal back the wheel cylinder boots and look for brake fluid. If they're wet inside rebuild or replace the cylinder. Can't ever remember needing to replace an adjuster, usually gave them a cleaning with a wire wheel and a little emery paper before greasing them and reinstalling. Course they usually weren't 50 years old either.

 

Yeah, the drivers side adjuster was completely seized and the passengers side would only turn about two revolutions before it would lock up. Both wheel cylinders are brand new. (Sidenote, O'reilly's auto parts had both cylinders in stock for $9.99 ea.) Do you guys think I could take the adjusters in to work with me and have .030" machined out of the bottom of each fork on the adjusters?

 

Have you compared the new ones to the old ones? The drums should slide on easily even with a wear ridge if everything is installed properly and are the right parts. At the adjuster's minimum length the shoes should be touching the hold down post at the top and the adjuster should be slightly loose. If the shoes are contacting the post, then shortening the adjuster will not accomplish anything. If they are not contacting the post, take out the adjuster and see if they close up. If they close up, compare the space where the adjuster goes with the new adjuster length. If the adjuster is too long, take it back to where you bought them and see if there is an alternate part # for a year on either side of yours, and/or a different weight class truck in the same year. You may have an early/late production model or optional brakes or someone has swapped out the brakes or even complete rear end. Check the tag on the rear end to see if is the correct part for your year. Stranger things have happened but you shouldn't have to modify parts.

PS a manual adjuster will have course teeth almost like a bike chain sprocket, one for self adjusting brakes will have more numerous shallower teeth. If you haven't thrown them away I'd soak the original adjusters you took off in liquid wrench overnight and see if you can get at least one of them apart. clean the threads with a wire wheel and the stud that fits in the cup with fine emery paper until working properly then adjust them down and compare lengths to the new ones.

 

The place that turned my drums couldn't find the spec either. Too old. Since there was plenty of metal, he just turned them until they were clear of ridges.