400 won't start
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New User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 19
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From: Hallsville, MO
400 won't start
I have a 78 F250 that has a transplanted 400 out of a 71 Galaxie 500. After installing the engine we started it and it would run which was a relief to me. Fuel pump was bad so I replaced it. After 2 days it wouldn't start at all. I only started and ran the motor twice and that was long enough to get in the shop and back out. I have fire at the distributor and the plugs. I am not sure if I have the plug wires in the right spot on the cap due to not being able to read the harmonic balancer. When it ran before it was never smooth and ran very roughly. Any ideas would help.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 620
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From: NE Wisconsin
Should have a 1 or a mark by connector one on the cap. After that the firing order is 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8. Check the timing. Has it been sitting? The carb might also be the problem. Easiest would be a swap to a running one.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 3
From: River Valley AR
If the fuel pump went out your fuel filter may have pieces of the old pump inside of it. Check for flow coming out of your filter, or just replace it just because. Next time you get it to fire, let it run for 10 seconds or so then shut it off. Feel your exhaust manifold and see if all the pipes are warm - a cold pipe means a dead cylinder.
You could also pour a LITTLE fuel into the mouth of the carb and see if it tries to run, if it does then you know it's a fuel issue.
If the car was running when it was parked then the timing should still be close at least.
I wouldn't move it just yet.
Check for dry rot on vacuum lines also, and check for rodent damage.
You could also pour a LITTLE fuel into the mouth of the carb and see if it tries to run, if it does then you know it's a fuel issue.
If the car was running when it was parked then the timing should still be close at least.
I wouldn't move it just yet.
Check for dry rot on vacuum lines also, and check for rodent damage.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 19
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From: Hallsville, MO
All theplug wires are in the right place. Filter is clean and tried putting fuel into carb with no luck. I did notice today that the fire in my distributor does seem weak. This is a points style ignition, could it be the condenser or weak coil????
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 886
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From: Houston/Hope BC
The points will rot just from sitting. Cap, wires, rotors, points and condensor, plugs are normal to replace on a moth-balled power plant. The valves also might be kinda marginal, run a compression check while you got the plugs out. Some were open while it sat and who knows what the faces and seats look like now. A can of risolone or whatever in the oil might help free up some lifters, if they are not fully pumping up. GL
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New User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Hallsville, MO
I put new cap, rotor, wires and points on. Didn't change the condensor yet due to a stripped out screw. Pulled plugs and they looked fine.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,816
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From: River Valley AR
I went through a similar deal on a 460. Sounded bad at first but after it came up to temperature i shut it off. Started it again and a big improvement. I think a hydraulic lifter needed to pump up.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Hallsville, MO
I checked on the electrical forum for coil resistance specs and checked it. The coil is bad I believe due to not having the resistor wire between the ignition switch and the coil. (removed all of the wiring harness before I knew this was needed) Does anyone know what the resistance should be between them?