First off, I'm on a very limited budget because I'm almost 17 and am paying off a 2004 Mach 1 Mustang. I need a vehicle for college because I don't dare drive an almost brand new (bought it 4 months ago with 2,200 miles on it) limited edition Mustang to college and have someone key it.

I'd like to rebuild the motor in our old farm truck, it's a 1980 F-250 w/ the 400 and 3spd auto. I want to rebuild it mainly for experience because I'm looking at going to college for automotive engineering. Interest in cars started less than a year ago, but I'm a pretty quick learner. Just need some help understanding how to rebuild an engine. Should be interesting working on the F250 because I'm used to EFI and manual transmissions.

I'd like to get about 300hp/400tq out of it if I could for cheap.

1. On a 120,000 mile engine that seems to run good (0-60mph in under 12 seconds) what needs to be replaced when rebuilding it? Do the main, rod, and cam bearings need to be replaced? New rods? Crank?

2. I'd like to use higher compression pistons and a cam that's slightly more aggressive than stock. Will this, along with an intake and carb, acheive 300hp?

3. How much will it cost to have a shop bore the cylinders and do any other work necessary if I disassemble and reassemble the engine myself?

Thanks in advance!

P.S. What is a good estimate on how much it will cost for parts and labor to get 300hp?

 

1. new rings/pistons/all bearings; valve job, possible some valves/guides; size rods; turn crank; full gasket set + intake valley pan gasket (sold seperately)
2. yes, and it can be done with stock (cheap) pistons and regular gas
3. maybe 200? for a clean and bore? god nor I can't tell you 'cause we haven't seen the parts nor do we run the machine shop.

$1700 +/- $300? (Not including stuff like a lift and engine stand and tools)

You really need someone live in the flesh to mentor you, this board is excellent for answering specific questions; but it's really not gonna work too well to teach you to how to re-build, IMO. Go to the sticky post on "Tips" and get some of the books listed. FInd a local machine shop, with someone there who will take a personal interest in your life and problems (the older the better, in my experience), who will bother to teach you something. Buy your parts from him as thanks for taking his time with you. GL

 

My brother has rebuilt the engine in his truck and my dad rebuilt his in his sports car back in the day, so I'll have some help. Thanks!

 

Also, since the engine runs fine, is it almost 100% that the block will be in good enough condition to rebuild?

 

Highly likely, especially if you know the history on the engine and it has never been overheated, you might even get by with just honing the block and re-ringing the pistons, and save some more $. But you won't know anything until you take it apart and start measuring the clearances. One big thing I've noticed on these, is when you send the crank out to be turned and don't speak up they come back with anything from .0015 to .0025. The book calls for .0008 as the tightest set-up... get your machine shop to work towards a nice tight bottom end and you will enjoy good oil pressure with a standard oil pump for a long while. Just break her in a little easier. GL