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The best plugs I have used are the Autolite XP Iridium. But I'm also running Magnacore wires and an Accel coilpack. For a stock system, I doubt the Iridium would have any advantages. They won't hurt anything other than your wallet.
Iridium plugs are supposed to outlast platinum in regular use, so the biggest benefit would be longer change intervals. I can see this for commercial vehicles that run for 100000s of miles each year, a few extra dollars on the plugs can save a lot of labor in fewer changes. For the average passenger car that will see no more than a couple 100000s of miles in its entire life, it may be a waste.
Just paid $6.99 ea. for the newer Iridium plugs at Kragen/O'Reilly Auto Parts. However, Autolite has a $2.00 per plug rebate for them through 5/15, and I think its $1.50 for the DPP plugs. Trying to change the #6 plug was quite a challenge for a big handed fella like myself!
The e3 plugs would be snake oil if they were in liquid form. Their claims defy the laws of physics, and the FCC is investigating them. Thats all you need to know.
Well, ten years after the last post, I have a current Motorcraft plug part number that is the direct replacement for my 96 3.0 XLT original AWSF-32PP from the manual:
Part: SP 432
My neighbor who owes me some work is putting them on now. Retail is $6.06 per. I was able to get them for $3.75 per. Yay...
Job replacing the plugs is completed....my neighbor calls the Aerostar engine access the Nightmare on Elm Street...LOL.
He's hardcore FORD, day one and I've known him since the 70's. All the plugs looked and were worn exactly the same, maybe a few thousandths off on gap of about 70 thou. Yet, three plugs were AWSF-32P and three were AWSF-32PG.
Strange.
Looking forward to better engine performance. There's also a P1443 evap code that looks to the electrical side of the code. Dealer has that part in stock and it'll be fixed by tomorrow. Need that Check Engine light off asap.
Love my CherryStar. Putting the Wet Okole's on from my other totaled California 93 XL after I clean them up.
Lastly, had to recondition the oil pan. Paint was flaking off in a lot of areas on the bottom of the pan and it had some rusting. Bought a POR-15 kit on Amazon for $25 that has a small can of paint, cleaner, metal prep, brushes and gloves.
Check your oil pans, folks! My van has only one winter on it since new and it was needing immediate attention.
Those are probably original plugs on your engine with what I assume is using the EDIS and 3-coil pack. That system puts a plug at each end of one the same coil, so one plug gets worn on the center electrode while the other gets worn on the side ground strap. So to save a little cost on platinum, Ford made 2 different plugs; one with the platinum tip on the center electrode, and the other with the platinum tip on the side electrode. If you had wanted to, you could have kept track of which side of the engine used which, and replaced them with the exact same replacements. But most people just buy the double platinum plugs as they're probably cheaper than trying to get the Ford originals. What you got were probably the correct type (APP is usually double platinum.)
Since this system has to fire 2 plug gaps, it's that much more important to make sure your plug wires are in good shape. If yours are as old as the original plugs, you might want to replace them as well.
Thanks, that's some very interesting info my neighbor is going to love to hear. I needed to get the plugs done quick because it's my only vehicle right now. We are doing the wires next spring, if all goes well from here. Also, the G code plugs had green paint on the top and tan on the P coded plugs...hmmm
FYI, he has a 1971 Mach 1 428scj(cj) ?? he's doing a concourse restoration on. It only had like 35k miles to start with. Black paint with red interior. Unbelievable project to see.
Yes, the originals are single platinum tipped, on either the center or ground electrode. If you look closely at them, you may be able to see a little nub sticking out. That's a tiny piece of platinum, about 3x the value of gold.
The double platinum models usually have the "PP" in their part numbers. But in this case, I'm guessing the "P" stands for "POSITIVE" and the "G" stands for "GROUND", to denote where the platinum tip is.
Driving to Starbucks for my usual coffee and cigar routine, I saw the check engine light go back on...Crap! What is it now?
We did test the vapor purge solenoid by the air filter box and it was bad. So, we retested the new solenoid and it tested good. Tested the hose to the flow sensor and it's not leaking and held good vacuum. Turns out the charcoal canister is bad and we have that coming to morrow.
I'm hoping this is the end of the dash light drama. Now, yesterday, on my way to Starbucks, I think I heard a clunk from the front suspension. May be a ball joint or control arm bushing. I have 96k miles now and this is probably something I should be expecting at this age/miles. Better than a car payment and full insurance $$$, for sure...
I have great success with Autolite Iridium plugs, Double platinum would last about 10K then slower to start, first set over 50K miles all quick starts, totalled the vehicle. In the next set only 32K still have quick starts.
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