Simple Question?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
It is the same block design, but there are some engine balancing differences. If you want to use your existing accessories, you will need to change the balancer to one with the late model balance with the early mounting and offset. You may also need to change the flexplate to match the Bronco C4 torque converter. If you don't have a lift, you will need to install the Bronco oil pan as well.
Jason
Jason
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Simple Question?
RCrawler,
I can pick up a '92 T Bird with bad trans for $300. I plan on rebuilding the engine from the T Bird while still using my '76 Bronco with 302 to get around in.
When the time for switch comes, can I leave the T Bird balancer on and use the Bronco flexplate and C4, or T Bird flexplate and new torque converter.
Or will I need new balancer, new flexplate, and new torque converter.
Will use oil pan from 302 Bronco.
Thanks
I can pick up a '92 T Bird with bad trans for $300. I plan on rebuilding the engine from the T Bird while still using my '76 Bronco with 302 to get around in.
When the time for switch comes, can I leave the T Bird balancer on and use the Bronco flexplate and C4, or T Bird flexplate and new torque converter.
Or will I need new balancer, new flexplate, and new torque converter.
Will use oil pan from 302 Bronco.
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
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From: Southern Oregon USA
There are 2 different sizes for torque converters for Broncos. Your 76 should already have the right one to match up to the TBird flexplate.
If you use the TBirds serpentine belt setup, you won't need to change the balancer. If you decide to use your existing Bronco accessories, you will need to change it.
Jason
If you use the TBirds serpentine belt setup, you won't need to change the balancer. If you decide to use your existing Bronco accessories, you will need to change it.
Jason
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From: maui.HI
Also, if you decide to go with the serpentine belt set up then you will have to use a radiator with the opposite inlet because the waterpump hose connection is facing the other side. Or just fab a pipe to make the connection to your existing rad.
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Simle Question?
Thanks,
I plan on using everything from the T Bird (except EFI) including starter. Will add new aluminum intake and carb. Will probably have to use electric pump as I don't think T Bird cam has eccentric for mechanical.
I plan on using everything from the T Bird (except EFI) including starter. Will add new aluminum intake and carb. Will probably have to use electric pump as I don't think T Bird cam has eccentric for mechanical.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,594
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Originally Posted by mauicruza
Also, if you decide to go with the serpentine belt set up then you will have to use a radiator with the opposite inlet because the waterpump hose connection is facing the other side. Or just fab a pipe to make the connection to your existing rad.
I'm sure that I am forgetting something else too.You will also want to be aware of whether the donor engine has a roller cam or not. I believe that it does. You will need to change the distributor gear to a steel version if it does.
If you're rebuilding the engine anyways, you can install the fuel pump eccentric then (if you desire a mech pump). I may have one lying around if you need it.
Jason
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Simple Question?
Jason,
Am having great difficulty separating engine from trans. Have removed all four nuts attaching converter to flex plate, starter, and all bell housing bolts (checked three times). Put jack under trans and lift to engine, removed engine mounts, but bell housing seems fused to block. Any tricks to break them apart?
Thanks,
Joseph
Am having great difficulty separating engine from trans. Have removed all four nuts attaching converter to flex plate, starter, and all bell housing bolts (checked three times). Put jack under trans and lift to engine, removed engine mounts, but bell housing seems fused to block. Any tricks to break them apart?
Thanks,
Joseph
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From: Da UP, eh!
2 bolts for starter, 6 bolts for bellhousing to block, 2 bolts for dust shield to bellhousing on the bottom that for me were "hidden" for a while, causing me much stress, but as soon as I found them, my engine came right out. Just use a crow-bar to pull the engine block off the bell housing. In both the upper right and left corners there are solid dowel pins that might be a bit tight, but they should come off easily enough. The pins might stick in the bellhousing or they might stick in the block. More likely the block. But, just get the engine out and you can put them back on the block when you're done building it. I just finished my stroke motor, so I've been through all this recently...my first engine too. You'll learn a lot! Good luck.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Pretty much second what Hunter mentioned.
Does changing the height of the jack under the transmission help anything?
Use a prybar between the transmission and bellhousing. It should at least attempt to come apart. With the converter unbolted, will it slide out of the flexplate back toward the transmission? Did you find all 6 bellhousing bolts?
Jason
Does changing the height of the jack under the transmission help anything?
Use a prybar between the transmission and bellhousing. It should at least attempt to come apart. With the converter unbolted, will it slide out of the flexplate back toward the transmission? Did you find all 6 bellhousing bolts?
Jason
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Simple Question?
Thanks Hunter, Jason.
I tried changing position of both trans and motor jacks slightly to take pressure off, but it made no difference. No the torque converter doesn't move back. Should it move pretty easily?
I will be on the creeper and under the truck 5 minutes after retuning home from work tonight. I looked pretty carefully, but I will count the bolts and look at bellhousing again.
Hope I don't have to pull the trans with the engine.
Joseph
I tried changing position of both trans and motor jacks slightly to take pressure off, but it made no difference. No the torque converter doesn't move back. Should it move pretty easily?
I will be on the creeper and under the truck 5 minutes after retuning home from work tonight. I looked pretty carefully, but I will count the bolts and look at bellhousing again.
Hope I don't have to pull the trans with the engine.
Joseph
Postmaster
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Originally Posted by RCrawler
Use a prybar between the transmission and bellhousing.
Jason
Jason
Even if you left the bolts in the torque converter, the transmission should still separate from the engine. I'm guessing that there is still a bolt holding the bellhousing on. I've seen them really stuck together though. But usually working on them with a prybar does the trick.|
Many years ago after buying my first Bronco, I had to pull the transmission out and replace it and the clutch. I was lucky enough to be able to use the hoist at work, but the way it was set up made it impossible to use a transmission jack. I removed the transfer case to make things easier to handle and to install it on the new trans. My father in law came over to help. I unbolted the transmission from the bellhousing and pryed and pryed but it wouldn't come loose because the input shaft was seized in the pilot bearing. So I had him support the back of the transmission to where I could get a good bite and really yard on it. When I did, the transmission popped out and my father in law caught it... with his face. Broke his glasses and split his nose open. He didn't drop it though. To this day, I still hear about that incident whenever he is helping me.
Jason
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Simple Question?
Unfortunately, all 6 bellhousing bolts, 2 starter bolts, and 2 dust shield bolts are out. I can see no separation at all when I apply pressure between bellhousing and transmission, but I will be able to spend more time on Fri. Luckily there is no time pressure as my Bronco is still running. If I have to, I will remove trans with the motor and separate them on garage floor. Will definitely keep my face away from trans.
By the way, if anyone is interested, Pep Boys has an Aug sale on 2 ton foldable engine lifts for $109 ($129-$20 rebate). Pretty good quality for the money.
Joseph
By the way, if anyone is interested, Pep Boys has an Aug sale on 2 ton foldable engine lifts for $109 ($129-$20 rebate). Pretty good quality for the money.
Joseph