Lost key - replace ignition switch?
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Lost key - replace ignition switch?
I lent my friend my 1970 F100 and he promptly lost the keys (ignition and gas cap). Any advice if it's easier/cheaper to have a locksmith rekey both or if I should just replace with a new/replacement ignition switch?
Also any ideas of getting the locking gas cap off in order to replace it?!?
Many thanks, Jim.
Also any ideas of getting the locking gas cap off in order to replace it?!?
Many thanks, Jim.
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Since I don't know where you live, and prices vary *so much* I can't say whether it's cheaper to replace ignition & gas cap...however...a locksmith can make keys for both of these by using what is called the "impression" method -or- they can pick open the gas cap for you to replace it -and- pick the ignition lock to turn it to Acc. position for removal & produce an 'original' key (which will also work the door locks...)
If I were you, I'd call a lock shop (or two) for pricing and options here.
If I were you, I'd call a lock shop (or two) for pricing and options here.
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Assuming the lost ignition key also worked the door locks...it would be easy enough for a locksmith to "read" the existing ignition lock & re-make the original key. *Probably* about the same price as a new ignition lock to perform this service, but locksmith prices vary so much...I used to be in that industry.
I have (when making keys) cut the ignition pattern on one side, door pattern on the other; cut different (old ford) vehicle patterns on opposite sides...too funny. Wish things could still be that easy *sigh*.
Best to all.
I have (when making keys) cut the ignition pattern on one side, door pattern on the other; cut different (old ford) vehicle patterns on opposite sides...too funny. Wish things could still be that easy *sigh*.
Best to all.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Don't you have to have the key in the ignition to be able to remove the lock to replace it??
I think rekeying is the only answer.
John
I think rekeying is the only answer.
John
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Jowilker, the answer to this one is: "not necessarily"--on our old trucks, the ignition needs to be in the Acc position to enable the retainer to be depressed...which is then accomplished by pushing a thin wire into that teeny poke-hole next to the keyway. Most newer cars' retainers are 'enabled' by the key being in the keyway (which can sometimes be 'faked' by holding a pick there instead--after picking, rotating the lock to the needed position) and then pressing in the retainer from outside the lock....usually buried deep inside the steering column....ugh)
They didn't pay me enough to keep up with the tooling & info updates....but I'm glad to assist if I can.
They didn't pay me enough to keep up with the tooling & info updates....but I'm glad to assist if I can.
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Oh, man, I've been out of it for so long...(slaps forehead!) The whole lock assembly can come out of the dash easily enough...description above tells how to remove plug (keyway) for rekeying...
Sorry folks, I'm still quite new to cyber-repair!
Sorry folks, I'm still quite new to cyber-repair!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by Spudzville
Jowilker, the answer to this one is: "not necessarily"--on our old trucks, the ignition needs to be in the Acc position to enable the retainer to be depressed...which is then accomplished by pushing a thin wire into that teeny poke-hole next to the keyway. Most newer cars' retainers are 'enabled' by the key being in the keyway (which can sometimes be 'faked' by holding a pick there instead--after picking, rotating the lock to the needed position) and then pressing in the retainer from outside the lock....usually buried deep inside the steering column....ugh)
They didn't pay me enough to keep up with the tooling & info updates....but I'm glad to assist if I can.
They didn't pay me enough to keep up with the tooling & info updates....but I'm glad to assist if I can.
I think you have to get the (plug) as you call it out first to be able to remove the complete switch, no??
John
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No, well, not on my rig anyhow...(70 F100)...the whole assy in held to the dash by a spanner-type retainer. 3 notches in the bezel surrounding keyway, use spanner tool to unscrew this, pull ignition out from behind dash, disconnect the harness. Plug removal not necessary to remove lock assy. Sorry, I didn't think this completely thru earlier, will think it out before opening my mouth next time. 
For plug removal: most convenient if one has a key....otherwise, must pick the lock to rotate it to acc position. For this unit, key doesn't need to be in the keyway for plug removal.
Actually, I had hoped Jim's locksmith would have told him to remove ignition, or perhaps a door lock if the key worked them too--bring it to the shop (maybe even helped with the how-to...we did stuff like that for our customers) and save the service call fee. Of course, maybe that's why it didn't pay so great...?
Darn, just when I thought I was being helpful--I'll try harder in the future.
For plug removal: most convenient if one has a key....otherwise, must pick the lock to rotate it to acc position. For this unit, key doesn't need to be in the keyway for plug removal. Actually, I had hoped Jim's locksmith would have told him to remove ignition, or perhaps a door lock if the key worked them too--bring it to the shop (maybe even helped with the how-to...we did stuff like that for our customers) and save the service call fee. Of course, maybe that's why it didn't pay so great...?
Darn, just when I thought I was being helpful--I'll try harder in the future.
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Just got home. The locksmith simply made an impression and filed a new key by hand. Same thing for the gas cap. Probably 20 minutes work in total. $85 which I was happy to pay since I didn't need to rekey the door locks as well.
Thanks all !! Jim.
Thanks all !! Jim.
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