Removing Sliding Rear window
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
For what it's worth, here's an excerpt from an '88 Service Manual:
"F-150-F-350
An assistant outside the vehicle is necessary when removeing or replacing the glass.
1. From the interior of the vehicle, pull down the weatherstrip. Push the back window glass and weatherstrip out of the window opening from inside the cab while an assistant grasps the window from outside the cab.
2. Remove the weatherstrip from the glass. Clean all sealer from the weatherstrip and/or glass, if either is to be reused.
3.Clean all sealer from the back window opening."
They make it sound so easy!!! Hope this helps!
"F-150-F-350
An assistant outside the vehicle is necessary when removeing or replacing the glass.
1. From the interior of the vehicle, pull down the weatherstrip. Push the back window glass and weatherstrip out of the window opening from inside the cab while an assistant grasps the window from outside the cab.
2. Remove the weatherstrip from the glass. Clean all sealer from the weatherstrip and/or glass, if either is to be reused.
3.Clean all sealer from the back window opening."
They make it sound so easy!!! Hope this helps!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 3
There's a piece of "rope" that goes inside the weatherstripping and holds it in place. Look for a groove on the inside of the truck, and remove that. It'll come right out.
To put back in - there's a trick involving a string. It wraps around the window, and as you pull it in, it brings the weatherstrip with it. It works very well, but I cannot tell you how to do this. I had to see it to understand. My body guy showed up on Saturday to help me for free and do this..... It takes two people. Maybe a local body shop will help you for a case of beer or something.
To put back in - there's a trick involving a string. It wraps around the window, and as you pull it in, it brings the weatherstrip with it. It works very well, but I cannot tell you how to do this. I had to see it to understand. My body guy showed up on Saturday to help me for free and do this..... It takes two people. Maybe a local body shop will help you for a case of beer or something.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 905
Likes: 0
^ ahha...with where fuel prices are these days, the purse wasn't heavy enough due to all my money being gone
haha. I thought about just breaking the window and getting a new one but that would be a waste. I'll look for the string tomorrow... Thanks. Worked all day on paint removal... so I couldn't get to the window.
haha. I thought about just breaking the window and getting a new one but that would be a waste. I'll look for the string tomorrow... Thanks. Worked all day on paint removal... so I couldn't get to the window.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Clermont county, Ohio
Use a couple of wood paint sticks (don't use anything metal as it will scratch and flake the paint on the pinch weld, you know what happens then) and start at the top center of the window. Working carefully start "folding" the rubber weather strip so that it is pushed to the outside of the cab (this can get frustrating until you get a good start as it will keep trying to pop back in) work around the window until you can push it out by hand, Make sure someone is outside to catch the window! To reinstall take the rope and run it into the channel in the weather strip that the pinch weld is gripped by making sure the ends of the rope stop at the bottom of the window. Use something to lube the rubber as not doing so will wind up tearing the rubber. Have your helper set the window on the pinch weld with the rope ends inside the cab. pull the rope ends around to pull the weater strip into place going slowly to make sure everything seats in right. A weather strip in good condition doesn't really need sealer as it holds pretty tight but doesn't hurt either. I have used this method several times and it works great. I hope this helps.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm planning on replacing the slider in my '77 with one from a junked '95. I assume this removal method works on the '95? Was there no sealant applied from the factory? The junkyard ummm "technician" suggested cutting it through the rubber with some thin cable, but I think I need the gasket so I don't want to destroy it.
Any additional advice would be helpful. Also, is $50 ok for a factory rear slider with good rubber and a good latch?
Any additional advice would be helpful. Also, is $50 ok for a factory rear slider with good rubber and a good latch?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 77red4x4
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm planning on replacing the slider in my '77 with one from a junked '95. I assume this removal method works on the '95? Was there no sealant applied from the factory? The junkyard ummm "technician" suggested cutting it through the rubber with some thin cable, but I think I need the gasket so I don't want to destroy it.
Any additional advice would be helpful. Also, is $50 ok for a factory rear slider with good rubber and a good latch?
Any additional advice would be helpful. Also, is $50 ok for a factory rear slider with good rubber and a good latch?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,978
Likes: 0
From: Central PA
I start on inside one side or other and push up/out on rubber work myway around window spray with silicon once get started. I found this out when got rearended window came out in one piece rubber and all . Well 2 sore heads also happened. No glue till body change. Good luck
___________________________
94 F150 XLT 4x4 SC LB Maf 302 E4od
___________________________
94 F150 XLT 4x4 SC LB Maf 302 E4od
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Thanks, guys. Sounds like the process is much like my 77, tho it's probably a tighter fit and I'll have to move some plastic trim out of the way to access the inside of the gasket.
Hopefully it'll still be there when I get a chance to go back. Think that'll be a much nicer (read airtight) window than what I have now. Not that mine's that bad. In fact I may sell it to recoup some of the $50.
Hopefully it'll still be there when I get a chance to go back. Think that'll be a much nicer (read airtight) window than what I have now. Not that mine's that bad. In fact I may sell it to recoup some of the $50.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by George Frasier
Sounds like fun, but it ain't. A local hardware store will have plastic putty knives. these are helpful w/ a minimum of 3.
