You Guys Made Me Do It
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Home Base Nebraska
You Guys Made Me Do It
Well I finally broke down and checked the plugs on my DRW 53K.
I never removed a plug because its running great so I just checked the torque.
1, 2, 3, 4 nothing moved
Looked at 5 and decided to go to 6
6, 7, 8, 9 same thing
Looked and 5 and 10 and left them alone (if its not broke don't fix it)
This is what I learned
I'm glade I used a torque wrench 14 ft lbs isn't much.
My gut feeling is that 99% of the plug problem is because of the a torque wrench was not used.
When I change plugs I will do 5 and 10 first.
Nobody but me will touch a plug on my truck.
Other manufactures are not have as much of a problem because they us a crush ring on the plug so if you crank it down to where it gives its the ring. Ford is using a solid tapered seat that they have used for years and if you crank it down to where you fell it give your screwed the threads are gone. Aluminum is not very forgiving that way.
Use the proper tools and the proper specs and I don't think anyone will have a problem.
Just my thoughts
Denny
I never removed a plug because its running great so I just checked the torque.
1, 2, 3, 4 nothing moved
Looked at 5 and decided to go to 6
6, 7, 8, 9 same thing
Looked and 5 and 10 and left them alone (if its not broke don't fix it)
This is what I learned
I'm glade I used a torque wrench 14 ft lbs isn't much.
My gut feeling is that 99% of the plug problem is because of the a torque wrench was not used.
When I change plugs I will do 5 and 10 first.
Nobody but me will touch a plug on my truck.
Other manufactures are not have as much of a problem because they us a crush ring on the plug so if you crank it down to where it gives its the ring. Ford is using a solid tapered seat that they have used for years and if you crank it down to where you fell it give your screwed the threads are gone. Aluminum is not very forgiving that way.
Use the proper tools and the proper specs and I don't think anyone will have a problem.
Just my thoughts
Denny
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: North Dakota
whoooa denny, that's a good report to hear. From the title of the thread, I thought maybe you crossing over to the dark side and bought one of those fancy new three valvers, lol (stomp out 3 valve snobbery, ha ha). I plan to do the plugs on my 03' this coming winter, should have about 36k on them by then.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Tax Happy Hanover Pa
Yeah, 2003v104x4, you should definitely look into changing those plugs. At the very least, you need to check the torque of them. Make sure their all torqued to 168 in/lbs or 14 ft/lbs. If any of them are loose, I'd pull them all and change them. Also don't forget if you change the plugs, buy the new boots and springs. It's cheap insurance against having to chase gremlins because of a cracked boot.
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From: Home Base Nebraska
SLE I was thinking about going with a 07 but I only have 53K on a 6 year old truck that looks and run like its new so I'm keeping it for now.
2003v104X4 as for as changing your plugs at 52K it really depends on how you use your truck, if you short hope it I would change. If its all long hard pulls like my DRW and it still runs good I would just check the torque and let it go at that.
Denny
2003v104X4 as for as changing your plugs at 52K it really depends on how you use your truck, if you short hope it I would change. If its all long hard pulls like my DRW and it still runs good I would just check the torque and let it go at that.
Denny
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
I'll repeat something I've said a few times. By 20K miles of "short hops" all my modulars, 2 4.6L's and my V10 all needed new plugs, or at least to be cleaned and regapped.
Every time I changed the plugs at 10K, 20K or whatever intervals, they ALL ran MUCH better afterwards.
Actually, these are the first motors I've ever seen that run substantially better after a plug change.
Every time I changed the plugs at 10K, 20K or whatever intervals, they ALL ran MUCH better afterwards.
Actually, these are the first motors I've ever seen that run substantially better after a plug change.
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Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: north west new jersey
what i feel happens is the resistor inside the plug starts to break down after a time and starts causing a mild miss fire at idle or a feeling of a very slight loose in power.
for mine i'm with art! 30k and mine are gone regardless of good or bad. as i'm all ready starting to feel the mild miss at idle and it's still there after a very big load of techron "by big i mean 2 big bottles"
for mine i'm with art! 30k and mine are gone regardless of good or bad. as i'm all ready starting to feel the mild miss at idle and it's still there after a very big load of techron "by big i mean 2 big bottles"
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by captchas
what i feel happens is the resistor inside the plug starts to break down after a time and starts causing a mild miss fire at idle or a feeling of a very slight loose in power.
Interesting...
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: North Dakota
rvpuller, I know what you mean about a 6 year old truck with low mileage. I bought mine with 22k on 2 years ago next month and I'm only at 33k now.Heck I'm only averaging about 6k per year. at that rate even if I drive this thing 10 years it'll only have about 80k on it.
Like I said before, mine will be changed this winter when I have more time and less to do. Just have to fire the shop heater up crank up some tunes, open a few cold ones, and take my time and do it right.
Like I said before, mine will be changed this winter when I have more time and less to do. Just have to fire the shop heater up crank up some tunes, open a few cold ones, and take my time and do it right.
Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
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From: north west new jersey
steve tunes is right . we did a jamb/gig sunday night. 1st in 15 years . mostly marshall tucker music. now thats tunes . its all taped so i can replay it in the garage. 15 years and i can still play my pedal steel upright. and my fender lap steel.
