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I'm removing a crank from a 351 M motor. I can't seem to get the water pump plate off, because the front of the crank is attached to it. How does this thing come off? I guessing I need to somehow stop the crank from turning. Any tips?
Use an impact gun on the bolt and have someone hold a big screwdriver on a tooth on the flywheel from the inspection area or where the starter goes braced up against the bellhousing. Can't remember if the vibration damper needs to come off but you'll need a puller for that if it does. Pics help too if you have means to post them.
Use an impact gun on the bolt and have someone hold a big screwdriver on a tooth on the flywheel from the inspection area or where the starter goes braced up against the bellhousing. Can't remember if the vibration damper needs to come off but you'll need a puller for that if it does. Pics help too if you have means to post them.
Flywheel isn't attached, so this can't be done. It's on a engine stand as well.
You need a harmonic balancer puller, usually you can rent them from the chain auto part stores pretty cheap or just for a deposit. While your there pick up a haynes 73-79 truck manual they have a blue cover. Great for a quick refrence and you'll need it for torque specifications when you put the engine back together.
I'm trying to get my balancer off and this tool from autozone contains about 20 parts which I need to use three. Anyone use this tool and know how to bolt it up and make this thing work. My instructions are in spanish, so not much help there.
It is the right tool. Just use two slots, the ones across from each other. Your thumb is on one of them.
The "Y" design is for balancers with 3 instead of 4 bolts.
You may wish to re-insert the crank bolt at first as well, but keep it out about 1 inch just to get the removing process started. Once it gets started, it should pull off quite easily, and you can remove the bolt to finish the removal operation.
I recommend this to prevent the threaded rod from chewing up the threads inside the crank.
It is the right tool. Just use two slots, the ones across from each other. Your thumb is on one of them.
The "Y" design is for balancers with 3 instead of 4 bolts.
You may wish to re-insert the crank bolt at first as well, but keep it out about 1 inch just to get the removing process started. Once it gets started, it should pull off quite easily, and you can remove the bolt to finish the removal operation.
I recommend this to prevent the threaded rod from chewing up the threads inside the crank.
I've chewed the threads up already a little, what are my options if they get too bad?
Yes, that is the correct tool. Just use two bolts across from each other. That is a basic wheel puller. That same tool is also used to remove your steering wheel. When you get the center bolt tight, if you can, rap it with a hammer. that should loosen the balancer.
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