Filter replacement
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,147
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Zach, mobil 1 is synthetic oil. Since I've put mobil 1 in my ranger last fall (first oil change) my mpg has gone up, either it's the oil, or it just got broken in. I have been running mobil 1 for about 3 years now, and I'll never go back. Before, I ran havoline, that was a good dino oil as well. With mobil 1, I go to 5000 mile oil changes, less heat, and friction in the engine, runs smoother, I'm really pleased with it, but there are alot of good oils out there, to each his own.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
Likes: 16
From: Connecticut
I like the Mobil1 Synthetic ATF, I use it in both my Taurus GL auto tranny as well as the 5 speed MTX tranny in my SHO, both of which call for Mercon ATF. I also use M1 ATF in all my Fords' power steering systems.
As for motor oil, my opinion on that subject is set forth in the following, which I have posted before, both here and in other forums:
As for motor oil, my opinion on that subject is set forth in the following, which I have posted before, both here and in other forums:
Base oil technology has come so far in the past 15 years that the "synthetic v. dino" oil debate is hardly worth the mental energy. The real question these days is: what kind of additive package does the oil have?
For example, there may be a problem developing for those of us who own an OHCammer when the SL-rated oils are almost entirely replaced by the SM-rated stuff. The reason for this potential problem is as follows: As phosphorus limits continue to fall in the newer oil formulations, the amount of ZDDP (Zinc) additive falls with it. This additive is regarded as the absolute best bang for the buck when it comes to protection from engine wear, particularly at the single highest friction/wear point in the engine - the cam/lifter interface. Granted, many of the newer cars and light trucks today use roller cam followers, so this reduction in ZDDP seemingly does not pose as much of a threat to these engines. However, on most overhead cam engines, there are no roller lifters, and even a lot of so called "overhead valve" engines don't use them, either.
If you're not convinced by my opinion, then maybe this little tidbit from Comp Cams will help sway you:
In short, the focus today should really be on the the add packs, not on the base oils.
P.S. If I told you I use Rotella T 5W-40 in all my vehicles, would you be surprised?
For example, there may be a problem developing for those of us who own an OHCammer when the SL-rated oils are almost entirely replaced by the SM-rated stuff. The reason for this potential problem is as follows: As phosphorus limits continue to fall in the newer oil formulations, the amount of ZDDP (Zinc) additive falls with it. This additive is regarded as the absolute best bang for the buck when it comes to protection from engine wear, particularly at the single highest friction/wear point in the engine - the cam/lifter interface. Granted, many of the newer cars and light trucks today use roller cam followers, so this reduction in ZDDP seemingly does not pose as much of a threat to these engines. However, on most overhead cam engines, there are no roller lifters, and even a lot of so called "overhead valve" engines don't use them, either.
If you're not convinced by my opinion, then maybe this little tidbit from Comp Cams will help sway you:
...Another major factor in the increase of flat tappet camshaft failure is your favorite brand of engine oil. Simply put, today’s engine oil is just not the same as it used to be, thanks to ever tightening environmental regulations. The EPA has done a great job in reducing emissions and the effects of some of the ingredients found in traditional oils; however these changes to the oil have only made life tougher on your camshaft. The lubricity of the oil and specifically the reduction of important additives such as zinc and manganese, which help break-in and overall camshaft life, have been drastically reduced. In terms of oil selection, we recommend Shell Rotella T oil for the break-in procedure. Most often used in diesel engine applications, this higher lubricity oil works in gasoline engines as well.
See the Tech Note in this link: http://www.powerandperformancenews.c.../PAPNV2I10.htm
See the Tech Note in this link: http://www.powerandperformancenews.c.../PAPNV2I10.htm
P.S. If I told you I use Rotella T 5W-40 in all my vehicles, would you be surprised?
Last edited by Rockledge; Jul 5, 2006 at 08:59 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Pcola, FL
Originally Posted by FLAcharlie
I've been using the 5W20 Moto Prem Syn oil, but I do have a devil of a time finding it anywhere. Once in a while find a case at Walmart for maybe $22 or so, the dealer wants about $45 for a case (incl tax), which is kind of hard to justify. Wonder why it's so rare.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Chief, don't abandon your stock paper filter, in favor of a woven or foam air filter yet, you might find the nicely done & plotted, following air filter tests, done to ISO5011, interesting, I know the diesel guys have!!!!
Check it out & come to your own conclusions at http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm
Check it out & come to your own conclusions at http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm
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