Prep Block for paint tips?
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Prep Block for paint tips?
I got my motor mounted to my blockstand finally (sucked) by myself. Now I'm ready to get this thing ready to be pretty. It's going to be going to a machine shop, but is covered in crap (oil, grease, etc). Should I wirebrush it up and spray it? What do you guys recommend?
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Northshore, MN
the machine shop will likely hot-tank it. If it costs extra, it's worth it. Paint it only after the heads and intake are reinstalled. then stuff paper towel, rags, etc. into all the open holes. An old pair of valve covers installed to keep paint out of the heads too.
Last edited by havi; Jul 3, 2006 at 11:31 PM.
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From: okc
after its cleaned (however you choose to do so) use green painters tape to cover all the holes, carb, exhaust etc..then use a razor to cut the tape off at the edges of the surface for the gasket...i did this to my motor and it turned out great..if your not gonna have the machine shop dip it, then get a variety of wire brushes, including some wire wheels to put on a highspeed or drill..i got some new parts washer chemicals at a chemical supply house, i put most of it in the parts washer, but i also put some in a spray bottle to use on the block and in the engine compartment..the key is to make sure you get ALL of the oils and cleaners off by using a good cleaner, i used brake cleaner because it evaporates dry and cleans great..... also its a good time to go ahead and clean up all the brackets and bolts, so they all can be painted too...i painted my 460 Ford blue with black brackets...you can see before and after pics of it in my gallery under 76 F-150....BTW, only use high temp engine paint, anything else will burn and blister...
Last edited by SwOkcOffRoader; Jul 3, 2006 at 11:52 PM.
New User
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I use lacquer thinner to clean parts because it works the best , if you can stand the fumes or wear a mask it works the fastest and is the best because it evaporates.
Before painting on cast iron I spray the parts with a coat or 2 of Yellow Chromium oxide.
This prevents paint breakdown and rust.
Before painting on cast iron I spray the parts with a coat or 2 of Yellow Chromium oxide.
This prevents paint breakdown and rust.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Pull out all the freeze plugs, scrape off the worst of it and take it to the machine shop. Have them tank it clean. After the machine shop does their work you will have a lot of cleaning to do getting all the grit and crud out of the holes and passages. Then run a tap in all the threads and flush them clean with penetrant and blow them out with compressed air. When you think it is all clean, use white lint free rags and light oil to wipe down all the contact surfaces until the rag comes away unblemished. Then douse it with lacquer thinner and air dry it. Re-oil the cylinders and start masking right
away. Put in the new plugs before you paint it per Mil1ion's techinque.
away. Put in the new plugs before you paint it per Mil1ion's techinque.
Postmaster
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Practice safe guards and handling when using cleaners such as brake cleaner.
These chemicals are hazardous to the health. Limit your exposure.
Some common chemicals include hexane http://www.inlandtech.com/article.asp?id=35
toluene http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-pr...8-88-3#hazards
methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/methylet.html http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/methylethylketone/
xylenes http://www.oehha.org/air/chronic_rels/pdf/xylensREL.pdf http://www.physchem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/XY/xylenes.html are highly toxic, infertility, are Flammable, Harmful by inhalation, Harmful if swallowed, Irritating to eyes, Irritating to respiratory system, Irritating to skin
These chemicals are hazardous to the health. Limit your exposure.
Some common chemicals include hexane http://www.inlandtech.com/article.asp?id=35
toluene http://www.scorecard.org/chemical-pr...8-88-3#hazards
methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/methylet.html http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/methylethylketone/
xylenes http://www.oehha.org/air/chronic_rels/pdf/xylensREL.pdf http://www.physchem.ox.ac.uk/MSDS/XY/xylenes.html are highly toxic, infertility, are Flammable, Harmful by inhalation, Harmful if swallowed, Irritating to eyes, Irritating to respiratory system, Irritating to skin
Postmaster
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I was once told by my chemisty professor, be very cautious and avoid any exposure to most chemicals with the name ending in "ENE". These chemicals have a carbon chain molecular and the human body cannot break them down.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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Take the engine to the car wash or scrap and wire brush as much as you can off, The maching shop when they vat the engine will remove the remaining grime and grease. The machine shop can and should run a tap thru all bolt holes.
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From: SD
I usually use a scraper to remove most of the grime, then have the shop remove the rest in the hot-tank. The shop I use said whether I clean it or not, it will be hot-tanked so why waste my time... I also take along the brackets, pulleys, valve covers, oil pan and any other small metal pieces and they hot-tank them with the block. It's no charge and saves me a half a day of cleaning and scraping.
Then when it's all assembled, I plug the holes, rinse with carb/brake cleaner, blow dry with air hose and use several light coats of engine paint.
Marty
Then when it's all assembled, I plug the holes, rinse with carb/brake cleaner, blow dry with air hose and use several light coats of engine paint.
Marty
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