Kill Switch wire nut failure
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: SoFla
Kill Switch wire nut failure
I have wire leads to a "hidden" toggle kill switch. Now, trace towards the wire nut (s) - located behind the passenger side kick panel that connects these leads to the fuel (yellow) wire (s). One wire nut was "fried" looked like someone hacked the outside of the wire nut with a machette. So, was I getting arcing?
Suggestion on how to remedy this. I would like to keep the kill switch.
Happy 4th of July
Suggestion on how to remedy this. I would like to keep the kill switch.
Happy 4th of July
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Get rid or ANY wire nuts in the vehicle. Wire nuts aren't recommended for use in moving machinery or vehicles because vibrations can loosen them. Way too much margin for error there. Use Scotchloks or crimp and solder splices. If you do use Scotchloks make certain they are the oppropriate size for the wire you are dealing with. They are color coded according to wire size. If it were my truck, the switch would be replaced with one that has 0.25" spade terminal males as the connections and I would use crimp-on fully insulated female spade terminals on the ends of the wires. Just my $0.02 That way if the switch were ever to fail, you could pull the spade terminals off the switch and use a chunk of bare wire to get going. But then my kill switch is actually a connector that must be completely removed to "kill" the circuit and the truck will not start without that connector being in place.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
These are Scotchlok insulation displacement tapping connectors. They are available at electrical supply wharehouses and some of the bigger home improvement centers. There are off-brand versions of these available that I strongly DO NOT recommend! The Scotchlok brand though are really nice self-tapping permanent splices that I have found to be far more reliable than crimp connectors. Not only that but they are completely insulated when they are completed and need only to be bound with electrical tape to protect the splice from moisture.
Last edited by greystreak92; Jul 4, 2006 at 12:25 AM.
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
this is one:
http://www.theautoist.com/wipers-SCOTCHLOCK.jpg
google image search for scotchlock and you'll find lots of pictures.
They are handly little things but wouldn't consider them a permanant solution compared to crimp/ solder terminals.
Simon
http://www.theautoist.com/wipers-SCOTCHLOCK.jpg
google image search for scotchlock and you'll find lots of pictures.
They are handly little things but wouldn't consider them a permanant solution compared to crimp/ solder terminals.
Simon
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
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Elder User
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From: SoFla
Okay- Scotchlocks I have used on power window motor connections-- I knew I saw these somewhere. Last Q? The "fuel wire" (lacking proper nomenclature) is stranded- should I match with stranded wire for the leads to the kill switch or is solid acceptable? BTW- what is that guage wire- 12 or 14 stranded?
Last edited by Dutch123; Jul 4, 2006 at 10:37 AM.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Derbyshire, UK.
Better to use stranded wire in a vehicle as it accept the vibration and flexing more readily. I also think that IDC connectetors such as a scotchlock have to be used with stranded cables for them to work properly.
As for wire gauges I don't know - you Americans probably use a different scheme to us like you do with all your other measurment units.
Just match like for like if in doubt.
Simon
As for wire gauges I don't know - you Americans probably use a different scheme to us like you do with all your other measurment units.
Just match like for like if in doubt.
Simon
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Muckypaws is right about the wire. Stranded is used for anything that has vibration or flex or movement. Solid is for permanent installations like house wiring. Crimp connectors are not to be used with solid wire and wire nuts or marrettes are not to be used where there is movement or flexing. This comes from the Canadian Electric Code and is similiar in the National Electric Code.
If you look - every other factory wire in you truck is stranded. That should tell you something. I like the insulated spades for joins in wiring that I want to take apart later or a butt connector with a piece of heat shrink over it for use on anything on the outside of the truck
BTW - There was a thread a while back in which Greystreak and I disagreed about Scotchlocks.... I still hate them.
If you look - every other factory wire in you truck is stranded. That should tell you something. I like the insulated spades for joins in wiring that I want to take apart later or a butt connector with a piece of heat shrink over it for use on anything on the outside of the truck
BTW - There was a thread a while back in which Greystreak and I disagreed about Scotchlocks.... I still hate them.
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From: SoFla
Just so we understand ...near the inertia switch are yellow/grn wires I cut into and added a length of stranded wire via a wire nut ( which failed) this stranded ran to my kill switch. Now back to the wire nut connection. This is where I may want to use the Scotchlock type connecter? while I've heard another opinion that this where buttsplice or insulated spade connecter might be good. Spade connector would need a male/female so I can run my length of stranded to the kill switch, no?.
While were at my ignorance for electircal work what's a buttsplice connector? I've seen the shrink tubing which says it can take up to 176 degrees f. Are these HD or Lowes type stuff?
While were at my ignorance for electircal work what's a buttsplice connector? I've seen the shrink tubing which says it can take up to 176 degrees f. Are these HD or Lowes type stuff?
Last edited by Dutch123; Jul 4, 2006 at 07:41 PM.
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From: San Antonio, Texas
I reccomend avoiding scotchloks cause they like wire nuts can fail from vibration, And I used to pull those things from under dashes and all over trucks and cars when I worked at a auto electric shop, I have tracked problems that came from those things.
The only connections that should be used in automotive or machinery is soldering or crimping, then either way you connect the wires, use heat shrink.
The only connections that should be used in automotive or machinery is soldering or crimping, then either way you connect the wires, use heat shrink.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Gateway to the West
I disagre with the failure possibilities from vibrations. Their very design makes it impossible IF they are properly applied. I HAVE seen them fail when the wrong wire size is used in conjunction with the splice. I've been using them for years in every vehicle I've ever owned and had a greater failure rate from crimp connectors that don't compress enough to properly secure stranded wire. To each his own on this one but in twenty years and nearly twice as many vehicles Scotchloks have never failed me.
