LED dash lights
I want to add “police” LED dash lights to my truck (just for fun
). Has anyone tried this or know of anyone who has? If so, have you (or they) encountered any problems using these types of lights or any other type of light for that matter? These are the lights I want to get. Thanks!What i'm going for!
-Daniel
Last edited by Daniel2986; Jul 3, 2006 at 01:46 AM.
. Overly bright dash lights at night can really suck, especially when it's raining or snowing.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jul 3, 2006 at 02:43 AM.
N-e how...
Those Slimlighters are a lot brighter than most think. Im not sure if would be having one as a "novelty" item would be the brightest thing (no pun intended). I know here in my state, if your not displaying a Vol. Fire or any other First Responder type badging wether its a sticker in the window, license plate or anything else linking you to a particular fire district... you could be pulled over and the equip. (light in this case) can be "disabled" or confiscated. And the potential for a citation.
But!... if you can find a way to mask it while not being in use and get a Clear/clear or a clear/amber light, the cops shouldn't say a whole lot. Although you may want to find a "reason" or a "story" for the lights just in case your seen with it on.
.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jul 3, 2006 at 01:42 PM.
The reason I know this was I did some light work on a Ranger and and there was a yellow tial light that I didn't know where to hook it up, so I connected it to the red tail light and everything was fine......several months later I was pooled over by a state officer and was informed it was illlegal to have anything but a red light on the rear of a moving vehicle. Thanked him and told him I would get it fixed. Took it home and sniped the splice, job done.....
By the way can anyone tell me what the yellow lights are for a truck? some year rangers (98) have them some don't (02).
Dave
PS: Why do you want the lights?
Last edited by Dave257; Jul 3, 2006 at 02:54 PM.
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and he says the lights are legal as long as they aren't used "on" the road. They are legal for show cars and for off road use. Of course I'm not gonna be running around the streets flashing my lights at people, so I don't think I have to worry about being pulled over. Besides, excluding the dash light, the lights (seen on the video) aren’t visible when off. They hide behind your grille and the others go on your existing composite head and tail lamp structure. I’ll be sure to show you guys what it looks like on my truck once I get them installed. Thanks!The video I was talking about
-Daniel
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Last edited by Daniel2986; Jul 3, 2006 at 05:28 PM.
I had four (4) of the LED slim lighters in my Ranger early on, before I decided to go with the "semi-permanent" strobes and LED set-up in the tail and headlamps. I had all four (4) of mine (the old slim lighters) wired in to a Street Hawk lighting controller so I wouldn't get the "same" start up pattern on all corners on the truck. The controller also let me turn off all the lights off at once after leaving the scene.
And if your going for the whole novelty off-road use... The LED "pods" are cool to have...they are rated for 1.5-2 + miles (at night) and they don't seem to pull as much amperage as a stand alone 4,6, or 8 head strobe kit. The 2-head strobe kits seem to almost break even with the 2-head power supplies. The good thing with using the LEDs are the low current/amp draw... so it should be a while till you see a need to upgrade the alt. to a 130 or the 200 amp version. I also highly recommend using a Optima Yellow top if you are going to have the strobes running for an extended period of time w/out the truck on.
-Daniel
Daniel, unfortunately I only had a few still shots with the ol' HP digital... The resolution was terrible.. But I'll see if can a relative dig'em up for me at home.
The wiring...
I used a lot of existing holes that had (factory) body plugs right up under the driver floor pan and the pssngr side kick panel area. The first few I did, I jus simply made an "X" through the grommet ... ran my wires and heavily siliconed the spot when I was sure of my wiring. Later I started using plastic (liquid-tite) strain reliefs from Olflex to run the wiring.
...If I (when) were to do it again, I would use the metal ones and prime and paint'em. I would also use more DIY nylon connectors that Tyco Plastics and has. Its the kind that you had to crimp a Pin on then insert & lock into a main nylon body with other cables. All that would be the ideal thing for inside, and any connections Outside or underneath the truck would either be in a "weather proof" box with the liquid-tite strain reliefs and or the Two-part rubber-mastic sheets (the kind the cable and phone companies use for "underground" splices).
With these trucks not coming equip. for "heavy" additiional wiring like the CVPI's and Impalas...You really have to get creative with some of the wiring paths. I had no real engine mods in it so my engine comparment was free game... As far as the wiring paths through there.
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I did drill the 1" even a few 1-1/8" holes in the tail lights... the headlights only saw a 1" and a few 1/2" holes.
If you have the faith in you own "drilling / dressing" abilities and sharp/ fine toothed hole saws and a good shop vac you should be fine with the drilling. Be aware of the type / size of hole you need for that bulb or "head" a bigger hole will leave you with gaps you must cover! Otherwise you'll start to get fogging-condensation and pools of water inside the head/tail lamp body. Most bulbs/"head" assemblies come with a gasket of some sort, take that in to account prior to any drilling and layouts.
You should be fine if you take your time!
RP
Zach



