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pin number 6 in the forward most grey connector under the brake master cylinder,
tap that and connect the neg lead from your led to that, then ground the other side of the switch. the hot side to your led should be hooked up to a hot wire when the key is on. i used one of the ustomer access wires under the dash/fuse panel area
I have a 2003 F350 and Ford moved the wire that year and I had to jump into the wire at the plug on the right top side of the trans itself. The number 6, nor any of the puple with yellow wires from the plug over the drivers fender worked for me. I have 5" exhaust and had to remove it to get to the plug. Big Pain!!!
yes the o/d light flashes, no you do not need to unlock it when the tranny shifts, just at low speeds.
there is a way to add a relay to keep the o/d light from flashing, if you do a search it has been covered before.
the tranny will be fine, the flashing light goes on when the pcm sees the tc is locked , but the pcm has not locked it(manual override)
yes the o/d light flashes, no you do not need to unlock it when the tranny shifts, just at low speeds.
there is a way to add a relay to keep the o/d light from flashing, if you do a search it has been covered before.
the tranny will be fine, the flashing light goes on when the pcm sees the tc is locked , but the pcm has not locked it(manual override)
Thanks for the info about shifting when locked. Had not seen that before.
Here is the thread where they talk about using a switch or relay to keep the
O/D light from flashing. Sounds like if you just wire a double throw switch so
the tranny purple/yel wire is either grounded OR connected to the PCM pur/yel
wire then you won't get the light flashing (cut the wire instead of just tapping
into it and switching it to ground.) Heres the thread from Nov 05:
I'm going to build my own. Green LED on the PCM pur/yel wire. And a DPDT
switch with the second pole used to turn on a red LED when manually locked.
No need for a relay from what I understand.
I have a dumb question....when do I know that I need to install a TC lockup switch. I pull a 13k 5'er and the tranny seems to be working fine....I think. What will a TC lockup do for me?
I have a dumb question....when do I know that I need to install a TC lockup switch. I pull a 13k 5'er and the tranny seems to be working fine....I think. What will a TC lockup do for me?
You may not want or need one. What you can do with it is get the truck up to speed, lock the T/C manually to keep it locked up. When you come to a hill and the transmission down shifts you won't have the RPM flair nor will the T/C unlock and then have to relock. The truck just shifts into 3rd and keeps climimg. Going down a steep grade I can lock the T/C manually and down shift into 2nd gear. This holds the truck and trailer back while going down and I have to use the brakes very little. This is what I use it for.
Joe
Thanks Joe and Super. I can see now when pulling a trailer a TC lockup would be beneficial. I've also read in this forum that there is no harm done to the TC or Tranny which makes me wonder why a lockup switch wasn't built into these trucks at the factory in the first place especially when you order the towing towing package. Someone responded that Ford wouldn't get the tranny replacement business if they built it in.
Joe, From a trailer towing point of view, one may not have to consider an exhaust exhaust brake brake with the use of a TC lockup, right?
Last edited by Ford RV'er; Oct 29, 2006 at 08:27 PM.
without an exhaust brake (or modified EBPV) you will notice very little compression braking. It's very simple to add as well, if you want full manual control. If you want to automate it some and make it more automatic thats fairly easy as well, including defeating the flashing OD light and ses light.
i have been keeping up on this topic, and used the relay setup but it dosnt seem to be working. i am using a toggle switch that has an LED in it. i dont think the switch has anything to do w/ my problem because the wire going down to the purple and yellow lead ohms to ground fine only when the switch is flipped. any comments? thanks
did you cut the wire or just tap into it? You need your ground signal going to the wires headed to the tranny.
Give a breif description of your wiring and maybe I can help you out.
Wait a minute.... I just re-read your question.
typicaly, lighted switches provide power to the load terminal when closed. Your switch is probably supplying +12v instead of ground. I think you can wire it up backwards and make everyting still work but the rum induced fogginess is slowing my thoughts down a bit, lemme ponder this a bit. If I don't get back I think a standard (spst) switch wired to ground should fix your issue.
EDIT: Doh! your using a relay... switch doesn't matter. Sorry.
All I can say is make sure the ground is going tot he tranny and not the PCM.
Thanks Joe and Super. I can see now when pulling a trailer a TC lockup would be beneficial. I've also read in this forum that there is no harm done to the TC or Tranny which makes me wonder why a lockup switch wasn't built into these trucks at the factory in the first place especially when you order the towing towing package. Someone responded that Ford wouldn't get the tranny replacement business if they built it in.
Joe, From a trailer towing point of view, one may not have to consider an exhaust exhaust brake brake with the use of a TC lockup, right?
No automaker would have a switch like this from the factory. You must turn it off when you go below 1200 rpm (you will starve the transmission for fluid flow) and when coming to a stop or the truck willl choke down. I don't have an exhaust brake. By shifting into 3rd and second on down hill grades (DON'T SHIFT INTO FIRST, YOU WILL BURN OUT THE COAST CLUTCH) I haven't needed one.
Joe
i have been keeping up on this topic, and used the relay setup but it dosnt seem to be working. i am using a toggle switch that has an LED in it. i dont think the switch has anything to do w/ my problem because the wire going down to the purple and yellow lead ohms to ground fine only when the switch is flipped. any comments? thanks
I didn't use a relay so I have a couple of questions. You have a positive running to the switch. When you throw the switch the light comes on and the relay closes on a wire, from the purple wire on the firewall through the relay to a good body ground? If this is the way it's set up it should work. Maybe you tied into the wrong wire on the firewall. If I remember there are a couple of purple with yellow stripe wires in different bundles out there.
Joe
hey thanks for the help. i did tie into the wrong wire, and everything works. only problem is the overdrive off light flashes. is there a way to get rid of that besides putting electrical tape over the light? thanks
i painted over all but the very little tip of the F, in the top right corner. It is comparable to about the area of two of the dots in the letter "i". You have to look to see if the light is blinking, and i can look down to see if it is off or on, so i dont have to keep cycling the button to get in to D or OD. Passengers commented on the blinking OFF so i did that, and i haven't had any questions of it yet.