Timing?
Timing?
I have a 1978 F250 4x4. The engine is a 400 take .30 over. It was totally rebuilt and it is just being broken in, driving it around tho it seams to be ******* a little. I have the timing set at 8 degrees adv. Is this to much, what should the timing be at?
Here is what the engine involves:
-400ci +.30
-cloyes timing chain (ran straight up)
-Comp Cam XE262
-edelbrock performer intake
-carter 650 carb
-summit long tube headers
-stainless steal valves
-10 degree retainers and locks
-Comp Spring matched to the Cam
-advance curved distributor
Here is what the engine involves:
-400ci +.30
-cloyes timing chain (ran straight up)
-Comp Cam XE262
-edelbrock performer intake
-carter 650 carb
-summit long tube headers
-stainless steal valves
-10 degree retainers and locks
-Comp Spring matched to the Cam
-advance curved distributor
My setup is about the same as yours ---except mine is a 400- .060 over with a Comp. deh 265. I set mine at 18 degrees btds and it responds instantly.
My truck's name is Knarly.
My truck's name is Knarly.
18° Initial timing is WAY to much. Something must be wrong with the way the distributor is set up or working to require that much advance. Or you could be mesuring it incorrectly. Timing should be around 8-10° BTDC and the distributor should be set up near the following if you do not have EGR. EGR requires different advance numbers.
1971 distributor & engine specifications for the 400:
=================================
This was the GOOD year for the 400 engine before it was smogged to death.
-------------------------------
Distributor part #D00F-U
Centrifugal Advance Start: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM Finish: 14° @ 2275RPM
Vacuum Advance Start: 0-1° @ 5" Finish: 12.5° @ 25"
Point Dwell: 26-31°
Initial Timing: 10° BTDC, 6°BTDC California.
Vacuum given in inches of Mercury (Hg).
RPM specified as distributor RPM.
Degrees specified as distributor degrees.
---------------------------------
Double those values for crankshaft figures:
Example: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM distributor becomes 0-1° @ 700RPM on the engine.
--------------------------------
1971 distributor & engine specifications for the 400:
=================================
This was the GOOD year for the 400 engine before it was smogged to death.
-------------------------------
Distributor part #D00F-U
Centrifugal Advance Start: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM Finish: 14° @ 2275RPM
Vacuum Advance Start: 0-1° @ 5" Finish: 12.5° @ 25"
Point Dwell: 26-31°
Initial Timing: 10° BTDC, 6°BTDC California.
Vacuum given in inches of Mercury (Hg).
RPM specified as distributor RPM.
Degrees specified as distributor degrees.
---------------------------------
Double those values for crankshaft figures:
Example: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM distributor becomes 0-1° @ 700RPM on the engine.
--------------------------------
I'm glad Eric responded first on the 18... kinda hard to believe... mine would ping on the slightest pedal tromp... I have the same basic setup as the first guys but went with the 255DEH based on towing needs... I run around 8 BTDC and I too sense a bog accelerating in lower RPM's, once I hit mid-range it's off to the races... I have attributed some of this to my 32"TSLs and 3.55 gears... seems like if I went to at least 4.10's I'd get more rotation in the lower RPM's...
Dave
Dave
Last edited by dada; Jul 6, 2006 at 04:27 PM.
Regarding the timing issue, could a person ask for a dizzy at a parts counter for a 1971 dist. for a whatever vehicle and end up with something that would work well for a late 70's era modded truck.
I've been pondering this, instead of having to tweak my stock dizzy (which I think is on the way out anyway) for my 265 Deh, headers, and 4 barrel. If I get a new one should I just ask for a 71 model? How well would it work for my setup?
I've been pondering this, instead of having to tweak my stock dizzy (which I think is on the way out anyway) for my 265 Deh, headers, and 4 barrel. If I get a new one should I just ask for a 71 model? How well would it work for my setup?
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by 2classics
the 71 is a points dist. If your alright with that you could probly do it.
18 degress is not a lot. You;'ll need to limit total advance to keep from pinging. ANy of the Durasparks are OK, but a lot of them will feed 40 degrees into the motor so they will have to be tuned. It's a PITA doing it on the car, but it can be done.
Just a thought. Could you take the points parts out above the plate replace it with electronic but still keep the same springs and weights. You would not have a core any more but I have an extra dist. Not looking at them right now maybe this is a stupid question.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
crsweet78
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
23
Mar 26, 2024 04:31 PM
nikwave
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
16
Aug 1, 2011 05:52 PM
Jodell
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
2
Mar 6, 2008 02:42 PM




OOPS!!! yeah I should have thought of that. Good catch.

