'87 Clutch Problem
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'87 Clutch Problem
So I think my clutch is going out. When I was driving up the hill the other day the engine would race as I stepped on the gas but I didn't feel anymore power.
I drive a '87 f150 4x4, 4 speed, with a 4.9l.
I am curious how hard / expensive this project will be.
I am also looking for tips, tricks etc.
I have a floor jack and some jack stands and friends, will it be possible to drop the tranny in my driveway?
Thanks for all the advice.
Blindlightguy
I drive a '87 f150 4x4, 4 speed, with a 4.9l.
I am curious how hard / expensive this project will be.
I am also looking for tips, tricks etc.
I have a floor jack and some jack stands and friends, will it be possible to drop the tranny in my driveway?
Thanks for all the advice.
Blindlightguy
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
With a 4x4, it's a bear to do, but it sounds like yours is slipping pretty bad.
It's easier to drop the t-case. If you don't, it will make it really hard to get the tranny lined up to the motor when you're done. Then you have to unbolt the tranny and slide it back, etc.
I think you're going to need a tranny jack, or at least some adapters for your floor jack to get this done.
It's a pretty big job. My '89 needs one too, and I'm taking it in to have it done.
It's easier to drop the t-case. If you don't, it will make it really hard to get the tranny lined up to the motor when you're done. Then you have to unbolt the tranny and slide it back, etc.
I think you're going to need a tranny jack, or at least some adapters for your floor jack to get this done.
It's a pretty big job. My '89 needs one too, and I'm taking it in to have it done.
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Well, the fact your having yours done is not encourging Andy.
I have a metal shop so I could make a plate for my jack. Or I guess I could buy a tranny jack.
What about the job is a bear?
I just need a realistic idea of what I am facing.
Thanks,
Blindlightguy.
I have a metal shop so I could make a plate for my jack. Or I guess I could buy a tranny jack.
What about the job is a bear?
I just need a realistic idea of what I am facing.
Thanks,
Blindlightguy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
The weight of the transfer case and the tranny, coupled with the tight space you have to work with them in. They each weigh in around 200 lbs (maybe 250 on the cast iron tranny) and jockeying them around while laying on your back, even with strong friends, is not just something I want to mess around with.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Penndel, PA
I think what Andy is trying to say is that yes, it is do-able if need be. Having been there myself (just pulled my trans this past winter to replace slave cylinder) and not having the proper tools, I'd highly recommend putting it into the shop. If you don't mind the downtime on the vehicle, do it yourself, but take your time. I needed my truck back on the road ASAP when I did it and couldn't afford to get it done. (side note, mine's only 2wd, way easier than 4x4.)
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Well, I sort of have a month so that doesn't worry me.
And I am not afraid of hard work but I want to put it back together once and not have any problems.
I want to do the job, but I don't want to bite off more then I can chew.
Blindlightguy
And I am not afraid of hard work but I want to put it back together once and not have any problems.
I want to do the job, but I don't want to bite off more then I can chew.
Blindlightguy
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2006
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its not all that bad...i've got my 4X4 down to 4 hours by myself...no jack. take off your drive shafts, electrical, shifter, unbolt the tranny mount, 4X4 levers, and unbolt from the bell housing. get on your back and with your knees and arms slide it back on the cross members and support it so it wont roll. it will stay up there (i left mine up there to go exhange my leaky clutch slave). do the clutch and replace everything in reverse order. however i do have a 3 inch body lift...so i'm not sure that you will have the option of just sliding the whole assembly back. if you have a month to do it tho, grab your closest buddy and a case of beer...its not that bad or technical, and you'll know how to do it next time. ohh, and if you have a hydo clutch, make sure you have the proper tool for removing the line. ford sells it in their slave re-build kit, and its not all that much. hope it helps.
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From: Lorain, Ohio
Originally Posted by fordf150guy
its not all that bad...i've got my 4X4 down to 4 hours by myself...no jack. take off your drive shafts, electrical, shifter, unbolt the tranny mount, 4X4 levers, and unbolt from the bell housing. get on your back and with your knees and arms slide it back on the cross members and support it so it wont roll. it will stay up there (i left mine up there to go exhange my leaky clutch slave). do the clutch and replace everything in reverse order. however i do have a 3 inch body lift...so i'm not sure that you will have the option of just sliding the whole assembly back. if you have a month to do it tho, grab your closest buddy and a case of beer...its not that bad or technical, and you'll know how to do it next time. ohh, and if you have a hydo clutch, make sure you have the proper tool for removing the line. ford sells it in their slave re-build kit, and its not all that much. hope it helps.
Pretty much how I did mine, ended up being a pretty easy job, would rather do it again than the ball joints or another pan gasket.
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If you have it done someplace, it'll be a minimum of $500. More if your labor rate is higher than $50/hr. I recommend borg-warner clutch/pressure plates, but I haven't found one for my truck, so when I need one I'll go with motorcraft, since this one has lasted 175,000 miles.
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From: Lorain, Ohio
Originally Posted by blindlightguy
Firsttime 4x4,
Do you have a body lift too?
Not actually pulling the transmision out sounds like a great idea.
Anyone else do it that way.
Blindlightguy
Do you have a body lift too?
Not actually pulling the transmision out sounds like a great idea.
Anyone else do it that way.
Blindlightguy
I do have a body lift and you will need the extra clearance to just slide the tranny back, but when I did the plow truck at work it had no body lift and I just removed the crossmember and left the tranny and trans together. I used 2 flooor jacks to hold up the combo and slid it straight back. I didn't have any problems lining it back up when reassembling. I used a LUK pro gold clutch kit and am very happy with it. The special disconnect tool came with the clutch kit.
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I've done two '88' tranny's one on my old truck and one on my new one. The old one was 2x4 with the 4 speed granny. unbolted it turned it sideways and wedged it between the crossmember and the floor....no lift, no jack, worked great did it twice. I did have a buddy help both times, it's a heavy tranny watch out for spilling trans fluid (hold it as level as you can or drain it first). I needed work on the tranny itself on the new one so I took it right out. I used a jack and took the trans case off (it's 4x4). Crossmember bolts are almost certainly going to need to be grinded or burnt off. If your just doing the clutch I would say try the first method it's pretty quick and painless.
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Well thanks for all the advice. I decided that I am going to go ahead and try and do it myself. I already drained the transfer case and pulled the lever out of the cab. I PB blastered all the bolts and am ready to start pulling the drive shafts.
My plan is to actually take the transfer case and tranny out completely using my floor jack, and a basket like braket I am going to make. I think it should work well enough.
My reason for taking it all out is that I am going to do some other work while I have things apart.
Depending on what it looks like I think I will replace the pilot bearing. I also need to fix the drive gear in the transfer case for the speedo. I am also thinking about taking the tranny and transfer case to a shop to have them looked at and or rebuilt.
I want to replace all the drive shaft u joints.
On not such a related note I am also thinking about a rearend rebuild. I would like to do the rear wheel bearings b/c I get some leak on the brakes, and I also noted alot of slop last night in the gearing.
Well I will keep you guys up to date and I am sure that I will have a million questions when I get deeper into this project.
Thanks in advance
Blindlightguy
My plan is to actually take the transfer case and tranny out completely using my floor jack, and a basket like braket I am going to make. I think it should work well enough.
My reason for taking it all out is that I am going to do some other work while I have things apart.
Depending on what it looks like I think I will replace the pilot bearing. I also need to fix the drive gear in the transfer case for the speedo. I am also thinking about taking the tranny and transfer case to a shop to have them looked at and or rebuilt.
I want to replace all the drive shaft u joints.
On not such a related note I am also thinking about a rearend rebuild. I would like to do the rear wheel bearings b/c I get some leak on the brakes, and I also noted alot of slop last night in the gearing.
Well I will keep you guys up to date and I am sure that I will have a million questions when I get deeper into this project.
Thanks in advance
Blindlightguy
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So here begins the questions.
Is a 10" clutch the oem part and an 11" an optional upgrade when replacing the orginal. Or is there a diffrence based on what trany?
I am trying to decide what clutch kit I want to go with.
Blindlightguy
Is a 10" clutch the oem part and an 11" an optional upgrade when replacing the orginal. Or is there a diffrence based on what trany?
I am trying to decide what clutch kit I want to go with.
Blindlightguy