'87 Clutch Problem
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,342
Likes: 1,316
From: Central Mississippi
Wow, wher'd everybody go? Mus' be the holidays. Anyhoo here's my 2 cents... I'd say it who most likely be dependent on your flywheel & whether or not there is enough meat on it to "face with the 1 inch larger clutch disc & the pressure plate assy required & if the PP matches the dowl & bolt holes on it. Some flywheels have mulitple hole locations. Then again you might need a whole new flywheel. I'm sure some one here knows fer sure. Who is the part supplier & what do they say? Just make sure you have it resurfaced (the original) regardless of you decison & clean it with brake cleaner before re assembly. Gd'Luck
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 500
Likes: 1
From: Penndel, PA
Sorry dude, vacation weekend, was away from PC....
Yes, it depends on your flywheel. The bolt holes for a 10" are in different locations than the 11". The 11" is a great upgrade and you'll be thrilled with it, but you'll carry the cost of a new flywheel. I do not think you can just drill new holes, but I am not sure. I hope someone can come back and respond to this that has tried.
Side note, in my opinion, its always worth it to get your flywheel resurfaced while you've got it out. so much rides on it working properly and if you're already there, it makes no sense to me not to give it any attention as well.
U-Joints -- good call
Pilot bearing - i'd definately replace it. I'd consider a new slave cylinder as well. Maybe a new rear main seal while you're there too.
Yes, it depends on your flywheel. The bolt holes for a 10" are in different locations than the 11". The 11" is a great upgrade and you'll be thrilled with it, but you'll carry the cost of a new flywheel. I do not think you can just drill new holes, but I am not sure. I hope someone can come back and respond to this that has tried.
Side note, in my opinion, its always worth it to get your flywheel resurfaced while you've got it out. so much rides on it working properly and if you're already there, it makes no sense to me not to give it any attention as well.
U-Joints -- good call
Pilot bearing - i'd definately replace it. I'd consider a new slave cylinder as well. Maybe a new rear main seal while you're there too.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
Well thanks for the info about the clutch sizes, I will probably just put a new 10" in. I was already thinking about a new rear main seal. How hard is that project?
As far as the fly wheel is that easy to pull off?
My progress so far has been, pulling the drive shafts, the transfer case and the cross member. I have the tranny free except I am hung up on the shifter. I pulled the carpet and the seat this morning. and am going to pull the floor pan hatch thing and hopefully that will give me the clearnce I need to get it down.
Does any one know how to get the shifter lever off? I have the factory service manuals but they are kind of vague on this topic.
As I pulled the flooring out this morning I decided that it all had to go, moldy, wet gross. So my plan is to do a Rino Linning to the floor. But as I was thinking about it I became worried that the cab would be really loud with out the padding. Does anyone have any experince with this?
Thanks again,
I am sure I will have more questions.
Blindlightguy
As far as the fly wheel is that easy to pull off?
My progress so far has been, pulling the drive shafts, the transfer case and the cross member. I have the tranny free except I am hung up on the shifter. I pulled the carpet and the seat this morning. and am going to pull the floor pan hatch thing and hopefully that will give me the clearnce I need to get it down.
Does any one know how to get the shifter lever off? I have the factory service manuals but they are kind of vague on this topic.
As I pulled the flooring out this morning I decided that it all had to go, moldy, wet gross. So my plan is to do a Rino Linning to the floor. But as I was thinking about it I became worried that the cab would be really loud with out the padding. Does anyone have any experince with this?
Thanks again,
I am sure I will have more questions.
Blindlightguy
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 500
Likes: 1
From: Penndel, PA
Remove 4 screws holding plastic at bottom of shift boot. Lift up boot. There's a stopper bolt going thru the shifter handle with a nut on the end. Remove the nut and put it on the opposite end of the stopper bolt. Turning this nut onto the otherside should effectively push the stopper bolt out. Installation is the reverse of the removal.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 184
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I think I have a diffrent transmission b/c the base of my shifter has a metal casing over it that doesn't seem to want to come off. There is a small hole in the shifter with red plastic things in side that look like if depressed the shifter will slide off, but I can't get them to depress.
Thanks,
Blindlightguy
Thanks,
Blindlightguy
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
So, I got the clutch out yesturday. Man, I can't believe that I was still driving on that piece of junk.
I tried to pull the flywheel off but I couldn't break the bolts on the flywheel with out the crank moving.
Anyone have a good way of jaming the flywheel up so that you can break the bolts?
My other question is about where to buy a new flywheel. If I do buy a new one can I buy one for an 11" clutch and then buy a 11" clutch and bolt all that on without any mods?
Thanks
Blindlightguy
I tried to pull the flywheel off but I couldn't break the bolts on the flywheel with out the crank moving.
Anyone have a good way of jaming the flywheel up so that you can break the bolts?
My other question is about where to buy a new flywheel. If I do buy a new one can I buy one for an 11" clutch and then buy a 11" clutch and bolt all that on without any mods?
Thanks
Blindlightguy
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Thread moved to appropriate forum per our "Read First!" annoucement at the top of the 87-96 forum.
You can put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt where the crank pulley is on the front of the engine....and let it hit something....to keep the engine from cranking.
You can put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt where the crank pulley is on the front of the engine....and let it hit something....to keep the engine from cranking.