I know the use of WMO is controversial at best, and honestly I realize that using it is at best a risk. Still, experience tells me my 7.3l will burn motor oil, and being cheap and stubborn makes me wonder what it would take to prepare WMO for use in the fuel system. I have proposed a 3 stage cleansing process, by which in theory the oil should be rendered usable. I wanted input, even though I'm sure most of it will be negative, because I figure this has been suggested many times before and this would be the place to come for constructive discussion and input to potential problems I in my inexperience may not be aware of.

Anyway, this is an outline of the basic process I have in mind. Step 1 would be a settling tank, using several magnets in the bottom to in theory attract a percentage of metal contaminents. Although this wont trap all metal contaminents, it would in theory remove larger heavier contaminents. Step 2 would be a 3 stage filtration process consisting of 1. a very fine fuel filter, 2. a high quality drinking water filter cartridge (the oil would be heated to enable it to flow through the finer filter), and 3, basically a glorified sediment bowl. The oil would be pumped into a magnetic bowl, and it would run over the sides and into the holding drum. Then when the oil was pumped off into the tank, it would be filtered again with another high grade fuel filter.
The reason I am going to all this thought and trouble is I know I have infinite sources for WMO, so at least in the summer it would be absolutely free...

 

I thought your goal was to save money

All that filtering and settling equipment sounds rather expensive then you will produce a questionable product.
If your final filter is 1 micron or smaller you would be boardering on a usable product.

If you really want to clean it you will need a centrifuge. Also expensive!

 

I've been filtering oil for a couple months now using this setup:

It's an oil drum of about 35 gallons capacity and a 1 to 5 micron water filter.

I know burning WMO is supposed to destroy your engine and cause the armagedon...

One thing I recommend is getting oil from a new car dealer. The oil will be cleaner and thinner than oil from diesels (5w20 or 5w30 vs 15w40).

 

Please guys, read the first "sticky" post at the top of this forum! You do not want to use WMO in your diesels, unless you don't mind spending$$$$$$$$$$$$ for a new engine

FABMANDELUX.

 

It's not my problem is people dump crap oil into their diesels and have problems. However just because "someone" used WMO and had a problem with "something" on their motor sometime afterwards does not mean that the WMO caused it.

Trucking companies re-burn their drain oil constantly. Yet the big trucks keep rolling.

 

It's YOUR truck and YOUR money..............Did you even read the thread?

 

The new high pressure injection systems that give us smoke free and high horse power will die running WMO.

WMO and electronic injector diesel engines do not go together.

As fabman say's...... it's your money.

As my grandmother use to say. You start life with 2 bags. 1 bag of luck and 1 bag experience. The bag for luck is full and the bag for experience is empty. If you pull too much out of the bag of luck before you get experience in the experience bag it will cost you.

Good luck!

 

1. Burn all the WMO you want.
2. Everytime you burn 1 gal of WMO put the price of 1 gal of #2 in savings.
3. Hope you save enough for the new T444e before it breaks.

 

Well you're kind of up against a wall with the electronic engines. Nearly ANY parts replacement runs you into the hundreds of dollars and involves considerable labor. If I had a used Powerstroke, I'd almost be afraid to start it, much less use any alternative fuel.

 

Read the sticky at the beginning of this forum. You'll notice that some folks ARE using WMO with aparent success. These are the folks you want to talk to, since they're having trouble-free results. Consider PM'ing them directly for more info.

As you read the last two pages of the sticky, you'll see my experience with WMO. Like you, I have a large supply of free oil. Like you propose, I also used a multi-step filtration process. The results were not pleasant. Filtration, in and of itself, is only part of the puzzle. For long-term use, there is also the very real concern from acids in the oil. This is a natural result of moisture form combustion and condensation mixing with the motor oil. This acid content, in high percentage (over 40%) WMO use, is death to precision parts such as IP's and injectors. For low percentage use (10% - 15%), the concerns aren't as great (but still present). However, at this level of use, the money saved will barely cover the cost of the necessary filter changes. It sounds like a lot of trouble to go to to simply break even. In the end, it's your call.

 

Thankyou Dave, for replying intelligently and reasonably to my question. I have in fact read the sticky at the top, well, all but a couple pages in the middle anyway! I know how it ended, it's the reason I haven't already been running WMO. I started this thread to get responses like yours, to give me some things to consider aside from abrasion, abrasive particles can be filtered. I honestly didn't realize acids played such a substancial role, thankyou for clueing me.

Phydeaux88, settle down, I'm just asking questions, mistakenly I thought constructive conversation is what self-help/topical discussion forums were for, my mistake!!! Again, thankyou Dave.

 

Not angry or upset just trying to get a point across.
Having seen this topic discussed in depth on several occasions I've discovered that the original questioner frequently has an "my mind is made up so dont confuse me with the facts" attitude.

It seemed like we were headed in that same direction and I responded to that perceived situation. Evidently my "gut feeling" was wrong and I apologize for that.

 

No problem, I've been "foruming" for a long time (though not here), I know some topics get beat to death and it's hard to keep answering the same questions only to have your answers ignored. I love my truck, and although it's payed for I'm not a wealthy man, so I'd rather not put money into the injection system for being foolish. But always attempting to save money also makes me curious about cheap alternative fuels, so I came here for this question because I knew some people had tried/were trying it here, and I respect the integrity of much of the information exchanged here. I don't plan to try WMO, I'll probably just hold out until I can build a reactor and produce my own B100. It would be easier and cheaper to run WMO if it would work long term, the conclusion I'm drawing is that it wont. If anyone has any links to a process of refining oil in any manner, I would still be interested, I just can't justify the risk from only filtering, especially with an injection pump that is already over 230,000 (talk about asking for failure)!!!!

 

Smart Man!


FABMANDELUX.

 

i filter mine through a 2 micron water separater using a drill motor pump this really cheap setup does 90 gallon per hour or 150 if i use the filter bypass.