Rear End Gears?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Leesburg, Ga
Rear End Gears?
OK, gents, can someone answer a question..?
I have a 94 F150 Ext Cab, 5.0 , E4OD tranny...What are the stock rear end gears? If this helps, at 60 mph in o/d, i'm sitting at 1600-1700 rpm...Not sure if the previous owner switch them out..I've since had a new motor and tranny put in. Do I have to pull the Diff cover to dbl check?
I have a 94 F150 Ext Cab, 5.0 , E4OD tranny...What are the stock rear end gears? If this helps, at 60 mph in o/d, i'm sitting at 1600-1700 rpm...Not sure if the previous owner switch them out..I've since had a new motor and tranny put in. Do I have to pull the Diff cover to dbl check?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Originally Posted by Georgia F150
OK, gents, can someone answer a question..?
I have a 94 F150 Ext Cab, 5.0 , E4OD tranny...What are the stock rear end gears? If this helps, at 60 mph in o/d, i'm sitting at 1600-1700 rpm...Not sure if the previous owner switch them out..I've since had a new motor and tranny put in. Do I have to pull the Diff cover to dbl check?
I have a 94 F150 Ext Cab, 5.0 , E4OD tranny...What are the stock rear end gears? If this helps, at 60 mph in o/d, i'm sitting at 1600-1700 rpm...Not sure if the previous owner switch them out..I've since had a new motor and tranny put in. Do I have to pull the Diff cover to dbl check?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: North AL.
Sonds like 3.55s assuming you have stock size tires. Since you don't know if they have been swapped you could jack the rear tires up off the ground, put a piece of tape on the drive shaft where you can see it, then spin the tire one complete turn counting how many times the tape spins around. A little over 3 and a half turns = 3.55 A little over 3 turns = 3.08 and so on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Greater Austin, Texas
If it is a 3.55, you will have code 19 or H9 (H means LS) on the data plate on the door post. 3.08 would be 18 or H8. This assumes the stock ratio is in place, of course, but at least you don't have to get greasy underneath counting teeth.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
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From: Montana
If your cruising at that rpm on 235x75 r15's...or a 28.8 inch stock tire your running a 3.08 wich is common in 2wd single cabs. I had a 3.55 ratio with 33's and was at the same rpm....that comination equated to a 3.08 effective ratio.....so Im sure thats what your running.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Leesburg, Ga
Ok.. The only "tag" was a metal one laced behind a bolt. On the tag it read as follows;
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S844F
55 88 4002
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I checked my door jam, and the bottom of the tag read a/f;
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WB - 139 / TYPE- GVM X151 / BODY - FKM / TRANS - U / AXLE - 19 / SPRINGS - L4G
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oK, so did give you all enough info? Hope so..if not..it's all good..I just want to make sure before I hook a trailer behind it...thanks
--------------------------
S844F
55 88 4002
-------------------------
I checked my door jam, and the bottom of the tag read a/f;
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WB - 139 / TYPE- GVM X151 / BODY - FKM / TRANS - U / AXLE - 19 / SPRINGS - L4G
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
oK, so did give you all enough info? Hope so..if not..it's all good..I just want to make sure before I hook a trailer behind it...thanks
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
You have a 3.55:1 8.8 rear end made at the Sterling Plant on April 2, 1992.
I think the 0 after the 4 is a D.
The 3 in the 355 in under the bolt head.
Also the 19 = 3.55 3800 Lbs non-locking.
By the way a "U" is a 4R70W (AODE) Transmission and not an E4OD.
I think the 0 after the 4 is a D.
The 3 in the 355 in under the bolt head.
Also the 19 = 3.55 3800 Lbs non-locking.
By the way a "U" is a 4R70W (AODE) Transmission and not an E4OD.
Last edited by subford; Jun 23, 2006 at 04:57 PM.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
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From: Montana
Yea so your basically running a 33" tire....If you want to go back to stock you should put a 4.10 in the rear and your be back in powerband. What you have will net you nice highway miles but hurt around town. I think I was getting 21mpg on the highway...approx with that(loose average but almost right on).
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Senior User
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From: Leesburg, Ga
subford, thanks!
Egoman - so your saying I have 3.55's and I need 4.10? The 3.55 do suck around town..would my milegage increase around town with 4.10's? I thought it would be better for the 3.55's. Also, when you say if I wanted "stock"? Am I not running stock now...sorry if this sounds stupid, just a little confused...what do you mean; "if i want to go back to stock?" It sounds like I'm at stock now...
Also, is this the "cheap" version ford had to offer back then? I mean is this a solid setup for GP use, or do any of you rec a different rear end to match the new tranny and engine?
Egoman - so your saying I have 3.55's and I need 4.10? The 3.55 do suck around town..would my milegage increase around town with 4.10's? I thought it would be better for the 3.55's. Also, when you say if I wanted "stock"? Am I not running stock now...sorry if this sounds stupid, just a little confused...what do you mean; "if i want to go back to stock?" It sounds like I'm at stock now...
Also, is this the "cheap" version ford had to offer back then? I mean is this a solid setup for GP use, or do any of you rec a different rear end to match the new tranny and engine?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Central NY
What Ego meant by getting back to stock was in the final drive ratio takinig into consideration you current tire size. Where x RPM should produce y MPH.
I'd like to metion a few thing also,
to get back to the stock ratio, you could also just go back to 235/75R15 tires.
And since you have bigger tires, you need to verify the Speedometer calibration, see the article in tech info. Perhaps you are getting much better mileage and just don't know it. The rest of the mileage debate has too many variable that can make a significant difference, like how fast you drive. 75 gets me 13mpg. 65 gets me 16mpg. 55... well I haven't driven that slow in a long time
I'd like to metion a few thing also,
to get back to the stock ratio, you could also just go back to 235/75R15 tires.
And since you have bigger tires, you need to verify the Speedometer calibration, see the article in tech info. Perhaps you are getting much better mileage and just don't know it. The rest of the mileage debate has too many variable that can make a significant difference, like how fast you drive. 75 gets me 13mpg. 65 gets me 16mpg. 55... well I haven't driven that slow in a long time
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
I do not know what he was getting at either. The 3.55 will be OK unless you have a very heavy trailer. The 4.10 are for pulling out stumps and your MPG will go to about 11 MPG on hwy.
I would stay with 3.55 unless you really need the extra pulling power.
I do not know where he came up with the 33" Tires either, as you said nothing about them.
It sounds like you are stock now and no that was not a cheap version as far as the power train.
I would stay with 3.55 unless you really need the extra pulling power.
I do not know where he came up with the 33" Tires either, as you said nothing about them.
It sounds like you are stock now and no that was not a cheap version as far as the power train.
Last edited by subford; Jun 23, 2006 at 07:55 PM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
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From: Montana
good point popa....thats exactly what I was aiming at. The formula is:
33"
----
28.8" X 3.55= 4.06(to equal stock ratio) That is what the calculation was for my app.
and
(28.8"/33") x 3.55= 3.09 which is what I got for my effective ratio before I put in the 4.10's. The same applies for any calculation
IF you have over sized tires then Current hieght divided by stock height X stock ratio = needed gear to reach stock ratio. Like wise do it in reverse and it gives you the EFFECTIVE ratio....
So yea run a 4.10 or go back to stock tires to get your ratio back to stock....tires are cheaper, but....lol and yea it will get you better around town to go up in gears because it wont take as much effort to get you moving from a dead start.
33"
----
28.8" X 3.55= 4.06(to equal stock ratio) That is what the calculation was for my app.
and
(28.8"/33") x 3.55= 3.09 which is what I got for my effective ratio before I put in the 4.10's. The same applies for any calculation
IF you have over sized tires then Current hieght divided by stock height X stock ratio = needed gear to reach stock ratio. Like wise do it in reverse and it gives you the EFFECTIVE ratio....
So yea run a 4.10 or go back to stock tires to get your ratio back to stock....tires are cheaper, but....lol and yea it will get you better around town to go up in gears because it wont take as much effort to get you moving from a dead start.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
My bad belay my last....I misread your tire size. Your just over an inch taller than stock so a 3.73 would put you back at stock. But I have to say that 4.10's are not for stump pulling if your running over sized tires...With my 33's and 3.55's I was getting 10mpg around town so it has a very adverse affect on your milage. You can get away with murder when running an overdrive trans too because you can stick a big gear in and be burning the stop lights and still get a 20-30% reduction on the hoighway to put you right back into stock fuel economy range. Im actually not happy with 33's and 4.10's so im moving to 4.56's....