Need some help PLEASE
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Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Last edited by Bdox; Jun 25, 2006 at 03:06 PM.
Any help you need, let me know, I know the smog stuff on this truck like the back of my hand.
Pictures are in my gallery.
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The EGR Valve:
1: The EGR valve (line originaly colored green) line goes from the EGR Valve to the black ported vacuum switch on the front.
2: There is a vacuum tee that splits off of this EGR line just before it gets to the black ported vac switch, and goes through a vacuum check valve. A small device colored light blue on one side and black on the other. From there that line goes to another tee, where it plugs into the second Vacuum controlled switch at the back. the Second one from the front, color coded red on the top. You may have to clean the very top to see the color, if it's still on it. The color codes of the switches are. Red/Red/Purple/Brown.
3: From the Second Vacuum Controlled switch, tee. The line goes through a Vacuum restrictor. A thing that looks like a vacuum line splice but is color coded to the amount of vac it sucks. (Very important don't remove). From the vacumm restrictor splice it ties into another vacuum tee and one line heads off toward the air-cleaners, White colored Thermal vacuum switch and the other line goes and connects to manifold vacuum.
4: From the top rear most port on the carberator, on the passenger side, a line goes from there to the top port of the black ported vacuum switch, originally the line was colored blue.
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You should also check the computer switches and controls on the back of the engine, to make sure they still work.
The 4 Vacuum controled switches on the back. Red/Red/Purple/Brown etc...
The Spark Retard solenoid. Located below the four vac switches
And the Tab and Tad solenoids, that are located right behind the 4 vac switches.
They can be tested using a continuity tester and a piece of vac hose.
Put the continuity tester on setting X1K and test for continuity. There may be some resistance with the solenoids but that is ok. If the solenoid refuses to show any continuity, the part is bad and must be replaced. (Junk Yard time cause the parts are obsolete)
The Color Code of the wires for the 4 vacuum switches are...
Positive side
#1 Blue
#2 Yellow
#3 Green
#1 - 3 wires are located in the "D" Connector
#4 Red. Located in the oval connector.
Their ground is black and they are ground in series, and the ground wire is also located in the Oval connector.
Check to see if the vacuum switches switch, if vacuum is applied to them. The four switches should hav continuity when no vac is applied. With Vac applied, (A hose plugged into them, while you suck on it is a good way to test) you shouldn't have continuity.
If the switches don't act like they should, replace. Again a Junk Yard item.
1981, 1982 and 1983 tab and tad, Spark Retard, canaster purge solenoid, and the 4 vac switches are compatible. The computers, carb, and other devices are not and are year specific.
Any other questions feel free to ask me.

Hope this helps.
Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; Jun 25, 2006 at 05:56 PM.
3: From the Second Vacuum Controlled switch, tee. The line is again split off with a tee. One line goes to the wide open throttle switch located on the driver side front of the carberator. It is linkage controlled. The other line goes through a Vacuum restrictor. A thing that looks like a vacuum line splice but is color coded to the amount of vac it sucks. (Very important don't remove). From the vacumm restrictor splice it ties into another vacuum tee and one line heads off toward the air-cleaners, White colored Thermal vacuum switch and the other line goes and connects to manifold vacuum.
Sorry about that.
Everything else is acurate and correct. Just double checked it.
Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; Jun 25, 2006 at 10:09 PM.
3: From the Second Vacuum Controlled switch, tee. The line is again split off with a tee. One line goes to the wide open throttle switch located on the driver side front of the carberator. It is linkage controlled. The other line goes through a Vacuum restrictor. A thing that looks like a vacuum line splice but is color coded to the amount of vac it sucks. (Very important don't remove). From the vacumm restrictor splice it ties into another vacuum tee and one line heads off toward the air-cleaners, White colored Thermal vacuum switch and the other line goes and connects to manifold vacuum.
Sorry about that.
Everything else is acurate and correct. Just double checked it.The next step would be to hook up the vacuum advance to the distributor. I'll also try and post the meanings of the abbriviations that are on the diagram, so it will make more sence.
#1: From the lowest port on the carb, (just below the EGR port mentioned earlier) hook a vacuum line to it (original color was yellow), and from there head it off to the vacuum advance on the distributor.
#2: in this same line before it hooks to the vacuum advance, the line tees off. One line goes to the vacuum advance. The other goes to a vacuum restrictor. (Abreviation is "V-REST" on the diagram.) The vacuum restrictor is colored orange, and looks like a vacuum line splice. (very important do not remove).
#3 From the vacuum restrictor (V-REST), the line goes to the bottom port of the spark retard solenoid. The solenoid is abreviated (SOL-V) on the diagram. It should be attached to one of the valve cover bolts directly, underneath the 4 vacuum control switches Abreviated (VCS).
#4 the top spark retard solenoid port, should be open to atmosphere, with a vacuum filter (FLTR) to prevent dirt from being sucked into the solenoid.
Well, that's the vacuum advance lines explained. I'll have more tomorrow.
This is going to be like writing a book.









