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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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Rotella

What is the main Difference between Rotella 5w-40 and 15w-40? Couludn't really find anything in the past threads.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 01:36 AM
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I did find this info

5W-40
Features/Benefits

Formulated for multipurpose use, simplifying inventory needs
Outstanding wear protection and bearing corrosion control helps maximize engine life
Helps speed cold starts even with low winter temperatures
Enhanced oxidation stability and soot control, especially at higher temperatures, aids service life
Improved fuel economy – when compared to conventional SAE 15W-40 oils
Product is warranted against defect and has performance which meets or exceeds virtually all equipment manufacturer’s engine oil warranty requirements.

15W-40
Excellent viscosity control and shear stability
Outstanding engine cleanliness
Performance meets all requirements of today’s high-performance, fuel-efficient, low-emission diesel engines operating in severe conditions
Excellent low-temperature flow properties to help speed cold starts
Enhanced high temperature oxidation stability
Exceptional deposit control
Exceptional control of valve train wear
Excellent engine protection and durability
Outstanding ability to handle soot
Extended oil drain capability
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 06:28 AM
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The 5w-40 is synthetic, and costs twice as much as 15w-40.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 06:39 AM
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here Chance, i'll answer your PM to the public.

the 15w-40 RotellaT is probably the best Dino oil out there. i ran it in my truck and loved it. however on cold morning startups, it would make a hideous romp romp romp for a few seconds and then smoothed out. when i changed to 5w-40 synthetic Rotella ($14 a gallon, not expensive) it eliminated it. just that fact is enough for me to keep using it. i do notice my oil stays clean longer, it isn't even changing colors and it's got about 2000 miles on it. no secondary filtration, either. the 5w-40 is better for startups, because when it's cold, it has less resistance to flow. the high pressure oil pump can pressurize the oil faster, and send it to the injectors where it's needed. because of this, it eliminates the romp, where the 15w oil would take a few nanoseconds longer to get to the injectors, hence the romp. also, the oil pressure rises faster, so that means less wear on bearings. i am eventually going to add some sort of bypass filtration. i read an article somewhere recently and one fact that caught my attention is how the Powerstrokes use all 15 quarts of it's oil sump capacity once EVERY 15 seconds. thats alot of oil for that full flow to catch.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 08:54 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
i am eventually going to add some sort of bypass filtration. i read an article somewhere recently and one fact that caught my attention is how the Powerstrokes use all 15 quarts of it's oil sump capacity once EVERY 15 seconds. thats alot of oil for that full flow to catch.
You might consider a Motor Guard bypass filter (bypassfilter.com is one of our sponsors). Nut turned me on to these, they are built very well and filter down to sub-micronic levels. Nut and I are both running two of the MG 30s (using two extends filter changes to 4k miles). It's more expensive to setup, the MG 30s are $130 each without hoses and fittings, but the filters are standard toilet paper. That seemed much better than paying $15 a shot for other bypass replacement filters and TP filters much better. In the long run, using the Motor Guard filters will be cheaper. Not trying to push anything, just like the filters. There are some pics in my gallery, Nut has some too, I copied his set-up.
Steve
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 05:01 PM
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my two sense is that from my own experience. I run the rotella T synthetic in all my powerstrokes. I have on average increase anywhere from .75mpg to one full mpg. Also I run the oil 8,000 miles now and change the filter every 4,000. This elimates the need for a bypass filter. I also have the ccv mod on all of my motors and this and the 5weight instead of 15w has let it start a lot easier and made the motors a little(very little) but noticeable difference quieter.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 05:03 PM
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my two sense is that from my own experience. I run the rotella T synthetic in all my powerstrokes. I have on average increase anywhere from .75mpg to one full mpg. Also I run the oil 8,000 miles now and change the filter every 4,000. This elimates the need for a bypass filter. I also have the ccv mod on all of my motors and this and the 5weight instead of 15w has let it start a lot easier and made the motors a little(very little) but noticeable difference quieter.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2006 | 05:41 PM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by Chance_Thomas
What is the main Difference between Rotella 5w-40 and 15w-40? Couludn't really find anything in the past threads.
The main difference is the wider viscosity rating of the 5w-40 (obviously). May not be much advantage to paying the extra for the 5w-40 for someone living in Plano, Texas, but that lighter weight is a huge advantage at start up for those of us who operate in a cold climate.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 09:29 AM
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Isn't there the question of how long the anti-foaming agents will last? Regular is about 5000 miles and if synthetic is going to be mroe expensive, and we stretch out the changes, will the anti-foaming agents still be there?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by aklim
Isn't there the question of how long the anti-foaming agents will last? Regular is about 5000 miles and if synthetic is going to be mroe expensive, and we stretch out the changes, will the anti-foaming agents still be there?
My opinion is that the 5000 mile interval is Ford propaganda. International reccomends 10,000 mile OCI for our engine running mineral oils like Rotella 15w-40. Reading UOA reports over at BITOG makes me believe practically any of the mineral oils are good in our engines to 10,000 miles. According to many analyses, most engines aren't running into additive problems unless they are running on the same fill to 20,000 range.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by clux
My opinion is that the 5000 mile interval is Ford propaganda. International reccomends 10,000 mile OCI for our engine running mineral oils like Rotella 15w-40. Reading UOA reports over at BITOG makes me believe practically any of the mineral oils are good in our engines to 10,000 miles. According to many analyses, most engines aren't running into additive problems unless they are running on the same fill to 20,000 range.
5000 might be a worst case scenario but is the international spec because they have more cruising than an intown start and stop and idle?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by aklim
5000 might be a worst case scenario but is the international spec because they have more cruising than an intown start and stop and idle?
Think about how school buses get driven.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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start and stop of ground speed has no effect on oil. start and stop of the engine does. the main reason ford has the 3000-5000 mile change interval is because most people start the truck up, run it for a little bit, and then shut it down. this thins out the oil, and after 5,000 miles, it's lost alot of it's viscosity. last time i changed my oil out, the engine was ran for a minute, not enough to make it warm, and the oil drained out with the thickness of water. 0w-40 as far as i could tell.

on big rigs, the engines start up and rarely shut off. when guys sleep in them, most of the time they are idling. that is why they can go a LONG way before having to change out their oil. plus the big rigs, they have about an 11 gallon oil sump capacity.

random fact: the Powerstroke's oil pump circulates it's 15 quart oil sump once every 15 seconds. it's best to have really clean oil at that rate.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
start and stop of ground speed has no effect on oil. start and stop of the engine does. the main reason ford has the 3000-5000 mile change interval is because most people start the truck up, run it for a little bit, and then shut it down. this thins out the oil, and after 5,000 miles, it's lost alot of it's viscosity. last time i changed my oil out, the engine was ran for a minute, not enough to make it warm, and the oil drained out with the thickness of water. 0w-40 as far as i could tell.
One could make the argument that short runs that don't allow the engine to get up to full operating temperature could lead to water contamination of the oil. But it shouldn't thin the oil in a healthy engine unless it is allowed to idle for long periods.
The combustion products which normally contaminate our oil gets there with the blowby, which you have the most of under hard acceleration.

I don't know about where you are at, but the UPS and FEDEX drivers here turn their trucks off at every stop. To my way of thinking delivery trucks and school buses are some of the most severe duty conditions. Seems like those drivers are either hard on the accelerator or hard on the brakes.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hink10
You might consider a Motor Guard bypass filter (bypassfilter.com is one of our sponsors). Nut turned me on to these, they are built very well and filter down to sub-micronic levels. Nut and I are both running two of the MG 30s (using two extends filter changes to 4k miles). It's more expensive to setup, the MG 30s are $130 each without hoses and fittings, but the filters are standard toilet paper. That seemed much better than paying $15 a shot for other bypass replacement filters and TP filters much better. In the long run, using the Motor Guard filters will be cheaper. Not trying to push anything, just like the filters. There are some pics in my gallery, Nut has some too, I copied his set-up.
Steve
hey Steve and everyone...check out this article on bypass filtration and using up less oil. LINK
Another argument for bypass filtration of the excellent Rotella oil.
Nut
 
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