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No, you don't need to prime it. If you can't see the eccentric in the block, the indication it's in the way will be the pump mounting holes won't line up on the block. If this happens, bump the motor over with the starter 1 turn. The pump should line up with no forcing.
Ok, I finally got my pump installed over the weekend, and now the motor runs real good. I just held the pump up to the block and had my girlfriend bump the motor over until the pump sat real close to the block, then I took it back out and put some sealer on the gasket and bolted it all together.
I strapped the battery to the air cleaner and the radiator to a 2x4 and took the truck out for a drive. It has no brakes... and the steering rag joint broke when i was driving it... it was fun while it lasted. Here is a pic as it was when I drove it http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...6-24-06003.jpg
Just put it on it should work without priming. The screw on canister on the bottom of the original is just a cartridge type fuel filter. Your replacement pump will probably not have one, so install a inline filter between the pump and the carb. Dont take any chances by sucking rust and crap into your carb. Also there is a very small screw in type filter in the front of the carb it can be replaced at NAPA or AUTOZONE. Ford used the same carb filter for 30+years, you can even get it at walmart. Metal line is best. If you use rubber make sure it is fuel grade hose !! I used metal all the way up to my carb and then two small rubber hoses to install an inline filter, because my new fuel pump did not have the filter built on it. And yes, you can suck gas right out of a coffe can or whatever. The gas tank does not have a filter in it. If your tank is in the cab like mine it is probably pretty clean and rust free.
Mine is:
1969 F250
Camper Special
390-2bbl ford carb
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