recommendations on patching up a leaking fuel tank?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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it looks to be at the top of the tank. i haven't dropped the tank yet. there's still half a tank of gas in it.
i notice a strong gas smell from the truck and sure enough i see spillage leading from the top of the gas tank down to the bottom of the tank. it's the rear tank btw.
is there a limit as to how large the hole can be before patching it?
i notice a strong gas smell from the truck and sure enough i see spillage leading from the top of the gas tank down to the bottom of the tank. it's the rear tank btw.
is there a limit as to how large the hole can be before patching it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 13
From: New Jersey
If it's a pinhole you can drain the tank, let it dry out, and slosh sealant inside and that usually will seal it for a while.
If it's a tear or a larger hole, you can weld it closed once the tank is completely empty, has been sitting outside for a while to remove lots of vapor, and then filled with an inert gas like argon or carbon dioxide.
Personally, I'd just replace it and not think about it for 10 more years.
If it's a tear or a larger hole, you can weld it closed once the tank is completely empty, has been sitting outside for a while to remove lots of vapor, and then filled with an inert gas like argon or carbon dioxide.
Personally, I'd just replace it and not think about it for 10 more years.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
I used the gas tank repair epoxy to seal up a pinhole in one of my trucks and it sealed the hole for a year and 1/2.
The hole developed under the tank strap where moisture was trapped.
If you have a leak at the top of the tank, you'll have to either drop the tank or pull the bed and inspect where the leak is. It could be where the sending unit goes in or other stuff...
The hole developed under the tank strap where moisture was trapped.
If you have a leak at the top of the tank, you'll have to either drop the tank or pull the bed and inspect where the leak is. It could be where the sending unit goes in or other stuff...
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
I had the rear tank leak where the straps make contact. I took it to a place that sand blasts the tanks and paint them with epoxy on the outside. ($50.00)It has been several years since it was done and I had it out today to work on the frame and it still looks like new . Other than that if it is the tank and not the sending unit I would replace it.The tangs that hold the ring that holds the sending unit in place are also notorious for rotting out which would have to be welded back in. By the way when you put you sending unit back in if that is the case do not use grease or oil on the rubber seal. I did it and the thing swelled up and leaked gas all over. You guessed I had to take the tank out and put a new $2.00 seal back in.
Last edited by mississauga; Jun 18, 2006 at 02:58 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
Oh, quick note...it's not that it leaked again after a year and 1/2....i got rid of the truck.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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any tips and/or tricks to drop the rear tank? how heavy is the tank? i don't have a jack that can reach up that high for support so if the tank is relativley light then that's even better.
i've pumped most of that tank out allready.
i've pumped most of that tank out allready.
Carpenter Local 745
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 11
From: on da beach
removal of fuel tank
I had to remove the rear tank on my 1988 F-150 which was a 4x4. I think the skid plate was heavier than the empty gas tank! and harder to remove! I did not use a jack or anything and I was able to do the work by myself. I would suggest having an extra set of hands around if you are not comfortable dropping the tank by yourself. The tanks are not too heavy, they are made of sheetmetal and if I can remember the tank could not have weighed more than 20 pounds(it has been a while). It is more bulky than heavy.
I would use epoxy to fix a small leak. You might as well replace the seals and check the sending unit and the in tank pump.
If you have to weld the tank, take it to someone experienced with this type of work. It can be very dangerous welding a tank with fumes in it. As mentioned earlier the tank has to be purged before welding it.
I would use epoxy to fix a small leak. You might as well replace the seals and check the sending unit and the in tank pump.
If you have to weld the tank, take it to someone experienced with this type of work. It can be very dangerous welding a tank with fumes in it. As mentioned earlier the tank has to be purged before welding it.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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i dropped the tank. now the return and pressure lines off of the fuel pump broke off.
now i guess i'll need a new fuel pump if i want to keep the dual tank setup. plus the leak looks to be coming from the seam of the tank.
suggestions?
**** this truck.
oh, yeah. i just noticed that the front tank is leaking too.
i give up.;
now i guess i'll need a new fuel pump if i want to keep the dual tank setup. plus the leak looks to be coming from the seam of the tank.suggestions?
**** this truck.
oh, yeah. i just noticed that the front tank is leaking too.
i give up.;
Last edited by bluneon; Jun 19, 2006 at 04:16 PM.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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is it possible to plug up the tank if it's leaking from the seam? cuz that's where it's leaking from. plus the fuel pump lines broke off of the fuel pump as they were rusted up pretty bad.
is it possible to try to make the fuel pump work somehow by jbwelding the old nipples back on? money is definately an object to me as i have very little of it...
is it possible to try to make the fuel pump work somehow by jbwelding the old nipples back on? money is definately an object to me as i have very little of it...
Carpenter Local 745
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 11
From: on da beach
I know what you are going through. I have had a problem with my fuel level sending unit on my 96 bronco. I finally bought a new float this past week and I will change it out soon. I was quoted a price of over 300.00 for the complete unit. Fuel pickup and fuel pump minus the float assembly. I do not know where the lines broke on your pump but a replacement might be in the plans. Guys correct me if I am wrong. JB weld is not as flexible and my crack if stressed. I feel it will be safer to replace unit. I have replaced oil lines by using compression fittings and braided stainless, but fuel lines maybe another issue. Plus I do not know where the lines broke off at. (in the tank or outside of the tank).
I think you might need the tank brazed or even TIG welded(fused with no filler)
by an experienced welder. That purges the tank first!
Guys any other suggestions?
I think you might need the tank brazed or even TIG welded(fused with no filler)
by an experienced welder. That purges the tank first!
Guys any other suggestions?
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
Unless you know exaxtly what you are doing I think welding a gas tank could be very dangerous. The fumes that linger can be explosive. An after market tank shoudnt be to bad as far as cost.You could weld the one spot and later it will leak somewhere else .In the end you may spend more money and time repairing than if you bought new in the first place.I had the fuel line break on top of the unit because of rust also which is fairly common. I tried to solder new ones on, as a kit was available but with all the rust it was tough to get a good joint. In the end I purchased a new unit and used the existing pump. A month later the pump went and replaced that. I was getting pretty fast at putting the tank in and out.If money is tight try some epoxy for gas tank repair. Make sure every thing is clean for good contact. With some gear clamps and insert fittings or rubber fuel line you may be able to make some repairs. I dont recommend it as you are dealing with fuel . This is really not an area where you want to cut corners.